Cordless Circular Saw - does size - ahem - matter?

[crappy]

I've started amassing Ryobi One+ range of tools for DIY purposes.

My next purchase needs to be a circular saw to replace my rather large and cumbersome corded one.

Why do I want to buy a 150mm blade versus 184mm blade? One is almost double the cost of the other.

Would I buy the 150 and wish I had bought the 185?

 

[crappy]

It would appear it's only really the cutting depth - more so at 45 degrees.
Question is then - how often will I be cutting roof trusses?

 

[blup]

Get one to cut through 2 x timber, the most common thickness you will use, you can always turn thicker wood over to double the effective depth of cut, and it will be powerful enough to cut through mdf or plywood etc. Get another saw later if subsequent projects justify it.

Blup

 

[crappy]

Thanks. I've been reading updated and I think I'll get the smaller one. On the odd occasion its too small for a cut I'll use the mitre saw.

Mdf an ply mostly in use...

 

[sxturbo]

i bought a 165mm one, in between, but that was more the fact the brand i wanted to stick with as i'd already invested in their tools.

as has been said it's only cutting depth.

mine manages to do pretty much all jobs thrown at it, but also need to think of the size of it. mines quite compact and is very light. my dad borrowed it and loves it so much has asked if he can borrow it for longer and is hunting for jobs to use it for..

 

[big-all]

as an aside
set the depth for 2mm deeper than the material you are cutting no more to reduce drag on the blade

 

[^woody^]

I have the 165mm Ryobi and it cuts 50mm timber but not on an angle - but if I'm doing bevelled cuts I'll most likely use a mitre saw, or if need be just finish the cut with a hand saw.

The biggest issue with this is finding 165mm blades with the 16mm bore.

But since getting a Bosch 12v circular saw with just a 85mm blade, that has become the saw of choice for majority of cutting, typically sheets of all sizes but also for awkward cuts or notching where a full sized circular would be unwieldly.

 

[Diver Fred]

Keep the mains one and supplement it with the 150mm cordless one.

 

[big-all]

I have the 165mm Ryobi and it cuts 50mm timber but not on an angle - but if I'm doing bevelled cuts I'll most likely use a mitre saw, or if need be just finish the cut with a hand saw.

The biggest issue with this is finding 165mm blades with the 16mm bore.

But since getting a Bosch 12v circular saw with just a 85mm blade, that has become the saw of choice for majority of cutting, typically sheets of all sizes but also for awkward cuts or notching where a full sized circular would be unwieldly.

did you find the guide fence on your bosch was out ??
mines was out by about 3 or4mm from end to end

 

[^woody^]

did you find the guide fence on your bosch was out ??
mines was out by about 3 or4mm from end to end

No, well I've not actually checked but have used the fence quite a few times and not noticed any misalignment - but that's not to say there is none knowing me

 

[big-all]

No, well I've not actually checked but have used the fence quite a few times and not noticed any misalignment - but that's not to say there is none knowing me

you would know its enough to bind the blade
i could work half off it out by tightening one end and forcing the other end tight but no good for easy accurate cutting because the cutting on the back edge doubles the load

 

[crappy]

Keep the mains one and supplement it with the 150mm cordless one.

I think that is the sound advice.

 

[opps]

I have the smaller of the two Festool plunge/track saws. I once had to cut some doors with raised panel mouldings. On that occasion I wished that I had the bigger saw. I could cut all bar 5mm of the way through (which I eventually did by hand).

Thus far it has been the only time that I "wished" that I had the bigger saw.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The biggest issue with this is finding 165mm blades with the 16mm bore.

What you need, @^woody^ is a 20 x 16mm (OD x ID) blade washer, like this one:

then you could buy "standard" 165mm diameter x 20mm bore saw blades like the DW ones I use

I have the smaller of the two Festool plunge/track saws. I once had to cut some doors with raised panel mouldings. On that occasion I wished that I had the bigger saw. I could cut all bar 5mm of the way through (which I eventually did by hand).

Thus far it has been the only time that I "wished" that I had the bigger saw.

The DoC on the 165mm TS55 is 50mm on the track. That will do for most 30 minute fire doors, I find. I do have the TS75 as well (70mm DoC on track), but in comparison it is a big hulking beast which is a bit of a handful, so it rarely gets used. Most of my sawing off the mitre saw other than panel work, probably 90% in general work, gets done with a little cordless 165mm Makita saw (DHS680) which I always carry and which has replaced a hand saw a lot of the time. I've had jobs where my biggest saw, a 230mm Hilti with 85mm depth of cut, has been used extensively (e.g. trimming several thousand 6 x 3, 7 x 3 and 8 x 3 joists) but it's just too big and heavy for use as an every day saw - the weight alone makes it unwieldy and tiring to use. Size may be important, but too big can also be bad

 

[^woody^]

What you need, @^woody^ is a 20 x 16mm (OD x ID) blade washer, like this one:

The problem is, my retraining bolt is less than 20mm!