Covering the edge of a curved step?

[TobyS]

Hi

I am about to start on a new bathroom project and whilst I think I've got most of it figured out, I've hit upon a snag. I'd like to create a dual level floor by raising the back third of the floor by about 6 inches. On this I will place the toilet and wash basin. This is primarily for aesthetic reasons but will also assist with the new plumbing arrangements.

I was planning on using bamboo tongue 'n groove flooring for both levels with a thin strip of ply for the riser. I will use a bamboo veneer to cover the riser, but I can imagine the top edge where it meets the tread will be far from perfect as it will need to be cut by hand. Now if the step was straight I could presumably use a right-angled strip of metal for example to cover the join and protect it from getting chipped, but the problem I have is that this raised level will have a pronounced curve to it. How can I cover/protect the edge of the step when it curves?

I hope that I've explained this properly and that someone will have some advice.

Thanks

Toby

 

[Mark Br]

I'm not sure if something like this will solve your problem:-

http://www.realoakfloors.co.uk/flexible_parquet_profiles.php

Unfortunatey they don't seem to do one in a bamboo colour although these are only one supplier so others may do something similar.

 

[mattysupra]

£150 quid for 1.5meters

You can get a profile made out of metal, or some skills with a router may be needed to do yourself.

 

[Mark Br]

Cough splutter - I just had to go back to check the price (didn't see it 1st time).

Jesus - that's expensive.

 

[TobyS]

Perhaps a little out of my price range

I'm thinking now that I could use a hardwood dowel and cut a corner out of it so that it sits on the edge of the step. I could always steam heat it and bend it into shape. What do you think?

 

[Symptoms]

Toby - once you've got you hardwood profile then steam-bending to get the curve is easy enough to do.

Steam chamber = length of plastic soil pipe (needs to be longer than the workpiece), a couple of end caps for the pipe (one should be a screw-on type - acts as a door to get the timber in/out), steam pipe made from a length of rubber (or plastic) tube, a steam generator (old kettle, not electric). If you want you could add a couple of wall clips to act as stablising feet.

Bending former = made from ply with a curved edge and some clamping blocks glued/screwed on.

Heat the timber in the chamber, gloves on, whip the workpiece out of the chamber and over to the former, clamp up and leave to dry.