Cupped Door Frames

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As title suggests, my newly installed interior door frames have cupped. Is there anything I can do to correct this? does it even matter? The doors have not been hung yet.

During renovation work the central heating was off for about a month, the house got really cold and damp and the frames did go straight again. It's when the heating has come back on and everything has dried out they have cupped.
 
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cupped will be the default position
how bad are they have they twisted or warped ??
is there lots off drying plaster or concrete ??
 
They don't appear to have twisted, and yes lots of plaster drying out, humidity has been as high as 90% for a while, coming down to around 60% now.
 
You can try to drill and counterbore some more holes further out from the centre line and pull it back flatter with extra screws, but I suspect that you are stuck with it and will have to do the best that you can when you hang the doors. Once they've got wet, and dried out cupped they aren't going back without a fight.

If there's the time I always prefer to make-up a temporary frame from something like 18mm shuttering plywood for the wet trades to work to and then either take that out when the plasterwork is dry or fix the door casing to it (in fact some performance door systems mandate this). Seems like more hassle, but pays dividends in the plasterwork not needing "adjustment" (providing the spread knows to work to the temporary framework) and the casings can be pre-made, the doors pre-hung and they just slot straight in, no hassle
 
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just a thought

if the architraves have not yet been fitted have a look at whats padding out the frame
have seen where instead off fitting folding wedges on top off each other to give a parallel surface they used short wedges and just kept winding the screws in tighter to pull the frame level then tap the wedges to pull it back a bit
any way this cupped the frame by about 2mm
 
It's all been plastered in, I can't get to the wedges. I don't think there were many though.

I thought about drilling and putting more screws in to pull it straight, problem is the wall is only 80mm cinder block. There really isn't much to drive the screws into.

I did wonder if it was worth dampening the frame again so it goes straight again, then bracing it as it dries out to prevent it cupping again.
 
i would just leave it if the door isn't fitted don't fit it for several weeks if possible
and after the air dries out a bit take it from there
how much is it actually cupped
 
It's all been plastered in, I can't get to the wedges. I don't think there were many though.

I thought about drilling and putting more screws in to pull it straight, problem is the wall is only 80mm cinder block
No. The real problem is that you can't get to the wedges.

I did wonder if it was worth dampening the frame again so it goes straight again, then bracing it as it dries out to prevent it cupping again.
I very much doubt it
 

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