cutting 100 mm table legs

[andyv1]

I need to lower my kitchen table by 35 mm. The legs are turned but the top is 100 mm square section. I have a hand held Skilsaw Duran, but it can only cut 65 mm max in one pass. I can't do a partial cut then turn the timber because the riving knife prevents the blade moving forward. There's no obvious ajustment I can do to get round this. I assume it's not good practice to remove the riving knife.

Videos of builders cutting roof timbers seem to be able to cut in more than one operation turning the timber until the cut goes through. How do they do it?

 

[robinbanks]

because the riving knife prevents the blade moving forward. There's no obvious ajustment I can do to get round this. I assume it's not good practice to remove the riving knife

If the riving knife sticks down lower than the lowest part of the blade then it will foul on the un-cut part of the wood. Adjust it so it doesn't, or modify the shape of it, or remove it(there doesn't seem to be much opportunity for the cut to close up and the blade to snatch on this job)

Or forget the power tools and get some triceps in :

If you're accurate you don't need the block: just clamp one leg to another and use the top of the leg as a guide for starting the cut. I'd say buy a new saw so you reduce the risk of cutting a curve if your old one has lost its set on one side

 

[andyv1]

Brilliant. I think I need to take my angle grinder to the riving knife and trim a bit off. Or I've just thought of this, I can enlarge the adjustment slots. Many thanks.

 

[big-all]

are you sure the blade is the correct size and the riving knife is the correct one

 

[conny]

If the riving knife sticks down lower than the lowest part of the blade then it will foul on the un-cut part of the wood. Adjust it so it doesn't, or modify the shape of it, or remove it(there doesn't seem to be much opportunity for the cut to close up and the blade to snatch on this job)

Or forget the power tools and get some triceps in :

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If you're accurate you don't need the block: just clamp one leg to another and use the top of the leg as a guide for starting the cut. I'd say buy a new saw so you reduce the risk of cutting a curve if your old one has lost its set on one side

What the hell is a 'Forge Steel Plastic Mitre Box'?

 

[andyv1]

are you sure the blade is the correct size and the riving knife is the correct one

The riving knife has never been off since I bought it. It's on its second blade in 20 years but I'm pretty sure it's right - I'll check though.

 

[big-all]

does the riving knife follow the blade nicely around the curve about 3-6mm away ??

 

[robinbanks]

It's on its second blade in 20 years

You might want to buy a new one before doing this, unless you like the ragged look (and a new blade will probably cost more than a hand saw and mitre box)

Cut slow and still expect a mess where the blade exits, compared to a hand saw

 

[robinbanks]

What the hell is a 'Forge Steel Plastic Mitre Box'?

Forge Steel is the brand

 

[andyv1]

So I elongated the riving knife adjustment slots and that works now but It seems the base plate is slightly bent and the saw isn't cutting at 90 degrees. I've got a 4 inch mitre box which I don't think has ever been used, so I'll give that a go. It's good to have other options.

 

[big-all]

So I elongated the riving knife adjustment slots and that works now but It seems the base plate is slightly bent and the saw isn't cutting at 90 degrees. I've got a 4 inch mitre box which I don't think has ever been used, so I'll give that a go. It's good to have other options.

well done on an adaption rather than butchering and possibly making more dangerous and possibly less accurate buuuuuut
in general if its supplied and doesn't work its fitted wrong or has been changed for one thats different from a small bit to a far greater level so needs checking thoroughly ideally if possible before adaption??