Cutting straight with a bandsaw

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When I use my bandsaw the cut always curves off to the left. I've adjusted the blade guides top and bottom and cannot understand how this happens. It moves so far that it eventually jams. Any ideas what causes this and how I stop it wandering. Thanks
 
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heeelllooo navery and welcome

curiousity what make
i have the machine mart[clark ] bandsaw and its very nearly impossible to get it cutting parallel with the fence so what i do is run it for a few seconds to settle blade align a piece of wood with the edge of the blade being carefull no to deflect the blade
draw a pencil line on the table top you can now aim allong this line or clamp a bit of wood parralel to the line
hope this helps
 
Hi

Mine's a Nutool - two wheel. I can't understand how it twists when the top and bottom guides are in place. It seems to want to cut an arc rather than a straight line at an angle so the only way to use it is to mark the wood and without a guide twist the wood as the blade twists - trying to keep ot on the line - not what I bought the tool for - very very frustrating
 
is the blade the correct tension :?:
are the top and bottom blade guids in line sideways :?:
at rest is the blade touching all back support guids :?:

i paid £85 for mines on a vat free day for that i only expect it to 95% accurate and 99% with tinkering i also expect to have to check it frequentyly for allighnment :( ;)
 
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You usually have to adjust the alighnment of the fence when you change blade.

Mark a line on a piece of scrap, cut along this line allowing the scrap to move so the blade follows the line. Stop the motor after you have cut 8" or so but don't move the wood, loosen the fence fixings and adjust its angle so it is parallel with the edge of the scrap. This way the fence will feed the wood at the correct angle for the blade run out.

If you have been using the blade to do a lot of curved work like cutting bowl blanks this will remove the set from one side of the blade making it track sideways.

Jason
 
Even expensive bandsaws suffer this problem at times. Usually from the set of the blade not being quite right ( either through too much wear on one side of the blade, trying to force the work through too fast or a bad blade). Most good woodworking magazines will tell you that when you buy a bandsaw the first thing you should do is get a good blade, cheap blades often are not good quality and not worth all the hassle of trying to get them to cut straight. It's false economy to buy cheap blades.
Hope this helps.
Gem
 
Just ordered two Lenox Trimaster blades for a Metabo bas 505g.
Cost = £92.98 each.
These blades are carbide tipped/ triple chip grinded/ 3 tpi/20mm width and are specified to cut.....

Aluminum/Non-Ferrous Mold Steels
Carbon Steels
Tool Steels
Alloy Steels
Wood
Bearing Steels
Titanium Alloys
Stainless Steels
Nickel-Based Alloys (Inconel®)

Just been using Starrett Duratec sfb carbon steel blades and not very impressed. Not sure if starret have a similar offering but I expect they do.


Anyway here is said blade in action...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEFUT2dSoiw

It's false economy to buy cheap blades
I hope your right. If I can get anything close to the performance that guy in the video is getting I'll be a convert. :mrgreen:
 
funny enough norcon i was a newbie with limited experiance when i first answered this thread :D :D :D
8 years ago ;)

i am assuming a post has been removed that you responded to ;)
 
Just fitted the Lenox tri-master. It zipped through that piece of 4"x2" like a knife through butter.
Slightly slower feed rate with the 150mm walnut but very little pressure to feed it through. And runs very quiet and smooth. :D
Its not an expensive bandsaw by any means but this blade makes it look good.
lenoxtrimaster.png
 
Just made this nice corner bridle joint sample. Thats straight from the bandsaw and glued up. :D :mrgreen:
The quality of the cut with that blade is phenomenal.
cornerbridlejoint.png
 

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