Damp problem

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Kent
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Hi all

We bought this old cottage requiring work because it was what we could afford, it had been empty for a year and a repossession so no history available.

The top front bedroom needed a new floor as the previous people had used chipboard offcuts that were no wider than a foot and springy as hell to walk on, while working in there I felt damp in the front corner down the wall and found the cause a blocked rainwater hopper.
The hopper was the old cast original and that and the down pipe had been rendered in, as the hopper overflowed in ran down the back where the wall hadn't been rendered and I'm guessing soaked through.
At that end of the house the walls are solid, the damp wall I was able to peel the paint off like wall paper and this revealed that sometime not to long ago this room was re-plastered.

With no paint on the wall I could clearly see what bits of plaster were damp, after a week of ventilation and rad on it still looked damp so I bought a dehumidifier. This ran for 3 days were I got over half a gallon of water out :eek: and the wall returned to a healthy pale pink colour.

I panted this with a watered down emulsion [40% water as instructed] for a first coat then in the afternoon gave it a proper coat, next morning I could see where the wall had been damp previously :( I gave it a second coat to see if it was my imagination but no I can see what was the damp area.

What do I do guys, I'm guessing as it's a solid wall it could take a year to dry out fully, can I use a sealer on the inside so I can finish decorating?

Just trying to get the room nice for when my Son comes home from uni and would like to get a carpet down and furniture in.

Don't know if you can see it in the pic

thecottageworks003.jpg


Advice appreciated as always

Brian
 
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If this has been soacked with water for well over a year, it will take a long time to dry out.

You can't do anything until it is dried properly - attempting to paint or install carpets or whatever else will just mean you'll be doing it all again in a few weeks.

Put the heating on, make sure the radiator in the room is turned to maximum.
Hire one of these:
http://www.hss.com/g/56732/Industrial-Dryer-Dehumidifier.html
and leave it running in the room 24/7 with the doors and windows closed.
This will take time - far more than 3 days. A few weeks at least.
 
I wouldn't bother with a de-humidifier. Rather a good fan heater directly aimed at the wet wall with a window OPEN to allow the moisture to escape otherwise it will just condense back into the wall.
The de-humidifier will take moisture out of the air yes but it will continue to do that ad infinitum. There is always going to be moisture in the air.
You may also consider having that wall rendered.
Just looking again at your photo, it looks as though there is a gap under the skirting. Could you have problems with the underfloor timbers or is it a concrete floor ?
Are you sire you have found the problem? It couldn't be rising damp,could it?
 
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I wouldn't bother with a de-humidifier. Rather a good fan heater directly aimed at the wet wall with a window OPEN to allow the moisture to escape otherwise it will just condense back into the wall.
The de-humidifier will take moisture out of the air yes but it will continue to do that ad infinitum. There is always going to be moisture in the air.
You may also consider having that wall rendered.
Just looking again at your photo, it looks as though there is a gap under the skirting. Could you have problems with the underfloor timbers or is it a concrete floor ?
Are you sire you have found the problem? It couldn't be rising damp,could it?

Hi ya
It's a new floor, joists are fine and I left the gap under the skirting to tuck the edge of the new carpet under ;)
The brickwork between the joists [under floor] was bone dry, I cut the new socket in and the bricks are dry and as hard as. It's an upstairs room and is rendered behind the plaster as well as being rendered externally.
I do believe the problem was the hopper as this is a first floor room/wall and downstairs is fine, original hopper has an outlet of about 1 1/2" diameter which is tiny for the size of the roof and will be changed at some point.
Hopper could have been overflowing for a year with no one to notice :( still our problem to sort out now :rolleyes: :LOL:

Hi Nobee
I think we're losing something in translation mate, sorry


Cheers all
Brian
 
you need to make sure that the wall has dried out properly then apply a coat of alkali resisting primer to the effected area. i have in the past just applied zinsser BIN primer to damp areas with no bad consequences yet with regards to efflorescence. this product will stop the water stain bleeding through your emulsion.
 
you need to make sure that the wall has dried out properly then apply a coat of alkali resisting primer to the effected area. i have in the past just applied zinsser BIN primer to damp areas with no bad consequences yet with regards to efflorescence. this product will stop the water stain bleeding through your emulsion.

Cheers for that and the brand names, I can go check them out ;)

Just drying the blinking wall out now :rolleyes:
 
The correct product for the job is an Alkali Resisting Primer.

Dec

Just been to check some brands out Dec, the ones I can find are for unpainted walls. Do I have to try and get it all off again :cry:
 
Not sure I follow you, the walls are painted arn't they when they have completly dried out just apply the primer.

Dec
 
Just been to check some brands out Dec, the ones I can find are for unpainted walls. Do I have to try and get it all off again :cry:

you could try applying a stain block to the area. if the paint flakes due to efflorescence in a later date then you could apply alkali resisting primer to the area.
 
Not sure I follow you, the walls are painted arn't they when they have completly dried out just apply the primer.

Dec

most alkali resisting primers are for untreated plaster and masonry to seal in the salts. applying it on top of a painted surface will not stop the salts coming to the surface of the plaster and reacting with the paint underneath the primer.
 
You can apply the primer either to bare plaster skim, or over a painted surface.

Dec
 

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