Damp proof

[tbone83]

Hi is there any reason I can't trim this dpc back flush to the PVC frame? And seal it over with a plastic trim

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• tbone83
• 16 Aug 2013
• 1

 

[pred]

I can't quite make out which dpc you're talking about, you need to fit dpc between the inner and outer brickwork where you close the cavity, but you don't need any around the frame of the of the door or window as they are quite waterproof, when I fit a door I normally set it lower, sticking up about an inch above the finished floor level so you're always tripping over the frame, if the floor is a screed finish then I screed up to the door, just be a bit careful with the trowel.

 

[tbone83]

It's just below the silicone on the frame.

This finishes above the floor level and stick out about 4mm which means I can't butt the floor tiles against it.

 

[pred]

I never fit dpc around a pvc window or door, the only place it's required is the vertical and horizontal between the internal/external brickwork.

Why is it getting in the way of the floor tiles? Why was the frame not set about 50mm lower in the aperture and tile up to the frame leaving a small lip of 5 to 10mm instead of a 3" pvc frame to trip over?

 

[tbone83]

That's what I would like to know ha would make my life easier. This was here when I move in.
It's in the way because the dpc is above the floor board level and sticks out a couple of mm so I woul have to rise the level by 30 mm in total to finish above it leaving too much of a step.

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• tbone83
• 17 Aug 2013
• 1

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I would have to rise the level by 30 mm in total to finish above it leaving too much of a step.

Just the right amount to allow for a good layer of plywood over the floor boards then to avoid the tiles lifting/grout crack in the future then.

 

[pred]

Good advice from FMT but in your first photo it looks like the boards have not been laid on the joist, could you not raise the joist an inch or two, but i think still a good idea to protect the boards with OSB boards.