Danfoss Randall 3060 --> Drayton Tempus 7

[PhilGP]

We have a very old looking 3060 programmer and wish to change it.
I have been looking at the Drayton Tempus 7 as a replacement.

Does anyone have advice on either product?
It it a straight swap?

 

[ChrisR]

3060
1 N
2 CH ON
3 SPARE
4 HW ON
5 SPARE
6 L
7 N
E E

Tempus 7
E
N
L
1 HW OFF
2 CH OFF
3 HW ON
4 CH ON

T7's a good programmer. Whether you can use its full functionality, depends on your system.

 

[PhilGP]

Chris: Thanks for the info.
I have now managed to download wiring diagrams for both controllers from the appropriate websites.

The current wiring confuses my a bit so I would appreciate some confirmation of what I have.

The white lead (right) is the power.
The other three painted cables (A/B/C) are visible.
Another (D) comes in from behind and a fifth (E - not on diagram) is a single live brown cable from behind. D+E are both black.

I am assuming the following ...
* cable A goes to the heating
* cable B goes to the hot water
* cable C comes in from the thermostat
* cable D goes out to the immersion heater (to switch it off)
* cable E - I have no idea - single core connected to pin 6 (Live)
* Terminal connector 3 has been used purely to join the thermostat to the heating circuit.

cable D bothers me as two wires are connected to the Neutral.
cable E is odd as only one core is connected - to Live.


If I am correct then connecting to the Tempus 7 should be easy (with the HW OFF and CH OFF connectors left open).
The 3060 is and understairs cupboard. I will place a junction box in the place of the current 3060 and fit new wires to the new control panel on the other site of the wall - in the hallway.

 

[PhilGP]

I think I've sorted out where they all go ...

A -> Room Thermostat
B -> Pump
C -> 2-way valve
D -> Boiler - with Earth actually wired to Neutral it still works
E -> still no idea !

There is no cylinder stat so it is bypassed and the HW control goes directly to the pump.

The way it has been wired suits the 3060 which cannot have Heating WITHOUT hot-water. Therefore I dont beleive I can do a straight swap with a T7.

Looks like keeping the 3060

 

[ChrisR]

Probably easier to start from scratch than going from the current connections.
Yes you can use a T7, it has a switch on the back to select "gravity systems"

 

[PhilGP]

How can I tell if I have a gravity system?

Excuse my ignorance but how, electrically, is a gravity system different to a pumped system?

 

[PhilGP]

I dont have a thermostat on hot water cylinder. It appears that the signal for the hot-water has been wired directly to the pump/valve - i.e. working as if the thermostat was always sending 'on'.

Is this ok for a gravity system?
What would stop the water from getting too hot?

I've been in the house 4 months and the water is always nice and hot - it takes a minute or so to reach the taps but it is hot. I wouldn't say it's scalding but I havent held my hand under it for long enough to find out.
If I switch off the boiler and use the immersion heater, the water is about the same temperature.

 

[PhilGP]

B&Q only have a small range of programmers but they do have a 'replacement' chart which lists all of their product range and a list of older/other units that they replace.
It seems that (as far as B&Q are concerned) the Tempus 7 is not listed as a replacement for the Danfoss 3060.

The two units they stock that ARE a replacement are the 'Drayton SM2' (£55) and the 'Sunvic Select 207XL' (£35). The data sheet on the Sunvic website shows all the required wiring changes required for the 3060.
I have decided, unless someone advises against it, to replace the 3060 with the 207XL. It has a link for pumped/gravity which, regardless of my current plumbing, will give me the functionality I currently have.

(NB: I have Cross posted this on another thread)

 

[wilhelm]

when I see a rats nest like the pic you posted........I know its being used as a wiring centre, in your case maybe c plan. ?

ergo. you need to buy a separate wiring centre/choc block and then wire up your new programmer.

or just buy a 3060, and slide it on. no fekkin around.

 

[PhilGP]

when I see a rats nest like the pic you posted........I know its being used as a wiring centre, in your case maybe c plan. ?

It certainly is a wiring centre - thats the first thing I'll tidy up.
"c plan" - can you expand on this please?

or just buy a 3060, and slide it on. no fekkin around.

but, the 3060 is horrible and expensive - I want something better.

 

[PhilGP]

I just found this Invensys compatibility chart - I found it useful - I hope others do too ...

http://www.heatweb.com/pdf/Invensys/Programmer Compatibility Chary.pdf

 

[ChrisR]

the 3060 is horrible and expensive - I want something better.

Then just buy "something better" and wire the thing up like for like. It will work - they design them like that!
You didn't have full independent control of CH and HW before so you won't without changes to your plumbing/wiring. This is all standard stuff and doesn't need huge pre-investigation.

 

[PhilGP]

Chris:
My concern is that a programmer may give out the CH signal and not the HW - depending on my wiring and plumbing, this could turn on the boiler without the pump.

I have ordered the Sunvic 207XL and I'll tidy up the wiring at the same time.