Dewalt DW622K

[morpheus83uk]

Hello,

I am looking for the above router but half the places which sell them I have never heard of so therefore don't trust. When purchasing any tools I prefer to use places which I have heard of or can walk into a store to exchange the good if needed.

Does anyone have anywhere they would recommend purchasing it from as it looks like its been replaced by other models now (Dewalt DW625EKT)...

Also I know it has a lock on facility so can this be mounted under a table? If so how would it work since its a plunge router?

Thanks

James

 

[Belboz]

I would recommend both FFX and D&M Tools. I regularly purchase from them and find them both excellent.

FFX has the 622 at £261 and the 625 at £292

D&M have the 622 at £286.95 and the 625 at £249.95 (on offer)

Both usually offer free delivery

Most plunge routers will fit under a table. Normally just use the plunge lock and then the normal//fine adjusters

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thank you that's brilliant I will take a look at them. I presume they are alright for returns and such?

Thanks

James

 

[morpheus83uk]

Sorry just reread them prices... The 625 which is on offer is that a better router? Since its cheaper if I can get a cheaper router but is much better I may as well go for that!

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks

James

 

[Belboz]

I can't give you a personal opinion as I have neither (I use a TREND) but take a look here:

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/what-to-look-for-when-buying-a-dewalt-router-a1027

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thank you I have just read it and it seems to compare the two and it looks like the 625 is the best router dewalt have to offer!

I have also been looking at reviews and people have very good things to say about it too from all over the place.

Thank You

James

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I am looking for the above router but half the places which sell them I have never heard of so therefore don't trust. When purchasing any tools I prefer to use places which I have heard of or can walk into a store to exchange the good if needed

Welcome to the world of buying trade quality tools. If you buy locally you'll generally pay 15 to 25% more in my experience. If you buy online you need to ensure that you use a company with a bricks and mortar address for security, and you should use a credit card if possible as that includes theft and fraud protection as well as a good level of faulty goods cover as well. I've used D&M and FFX in the past (FFX fairly regularly), but when I Googled DW622 I came up with Tool-Net (who I've just had a delivery from this week) and Howe Tools who I've also dealt with. Note the prices.

Does anyone have anywhere they would recommend purchasing it from as it looks like its been replaced by other models now (Dewalt DW625EKT)...

Ha Ha Ha! The DW625 was originally the Elu MOF177e and started production in 1985 or 86. It is what is referred to as a heavy duty router. They are large and they are heavy which makes them unsuitable for anyone who'd have trouble handling a big heavy router (thinking back to your previous thread). The DW625 is also the basis of both the Trend T10 (an almost exact copy) and their T11 (a more highly modified version). They both come out of the same deWalt factory in Slovenia as the DW625, and that is where the DW622 is also manufactured. Not really a beginners machine and certainly not suitable for small scale work. They also have mediocre dust extraction. I know because I still have two of them.

The DW622 is an upgraded and modified version of the DW621 which started out life as the Elu OF97e in about 1984. It is a medium router as opposed to a heavy duty one, and is much smaller than a DW625, only about 10% larger than an Elu MOF96 (the original and often copied "small" router) but with 1400 watts it has the power to run larger cutters, it has dust extraction on a par with the Festool routers (probably the best on the market) - probably not something you've even considered. The smaller size and lighter weight makes them far more suitable for smaller scale tasks, too. Take a look again at that photograph of the DW622 against a Makita RT0700C trim router to see the relative scales of those - then imagine the DW625 at 20% larger and 50% maybe more) heavier. IMHO that makes the '622 a far more preferable tool for a router "virgin" than a hulking great DW625. Oh, and it most certainly has NOT been replaced by the DW625 (although some people will say anything, no matter how ignorant of the facts or untruthful, if they think they can make a sale). Being smaller doesn't necessarilly make it cheaper.

The DW625 is sold as a big router to the trade where heavy joinery (e.g. worktop joint cutting, mortising and stair building are the order of the day) whilst the DW622 is a relatively new (3 to 4 years old) tool which is much less well know so far.

Also I know it has a lock on facility so can this be mounted under a table? If so how would it work since its a plunge router?

Not sure exactly what you mean, however if you are talking about locking the power on the DW622 can lock power on, the DW625 has a detented sliding ON-OFF switch which performs a similar task. In terms of cutter rise and fall on both of these routers (and for that matter the vast majority of plunge routers) you'd need to purchase a "fine height adjuster" accessory (£15 to £20) which replaces the depth stop "flag" and allows you also to control the depth of cut when mounted beneath a router table. Buy a Trend T11 (a mofified DW625) and that control is from above the table, but that router is just as big and heavy as a DW625

The 625 which is on offer is that a better router? Since its cheaper if I can get a cheaper router but is much better I may as well go for that!

Big isn't always best, you know. You started out looking for a router which can do small routing tasks and a bit of plunge routing, then you added a router table to your requirements (incidentally, why?). You have never used a router before, too. If you were a joiner, doing heavier stuff (worktop joints, lock mortises, heavy rebates, stair housings, etc) every day I'd have recommended something like the DW625, party because they are really reliable, and parts for 30 year old machines are still available - but by your own admission you're not. As a beginner you may well struggle with a big and heavy router, and for small scale work it will be hopelessly big and heavy.

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thank you.

So essentially stick with the DW622 I will have a look at all the sites mentioned and get the router from the cheapest tomorrow so it can start making its way to me.

Yes I am on about the power lock on but also setting the depth to something specific so once mounted it gives the same cut. I presume you can but just wanted to confirm.

Thanks

James

 

[chappers]

I've used howe and tool-net too.
You won't go far wrong with a DW622 mine gets used for just about everything nowadays, from hinge cutting on linings to worktops, my big Makita hardly ever gets used nowadays.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Will post pic of the DW622 with fine adjuster and part numbers tomorrow if you are interested

 

[morpheus83uk]

Yes that would be great if it's not too much trouble.

And reading back I am still a little confused on the fine height adjuster. If I understand correctly the router doesn't allow you to lock a specific depth say an inch for example out of the box?

I have done some reading and some people and youtself are saying it's for above the router table? How does this work or is this a different application for the accessory?

Thanks

James

 

[Belboz]

James,

I have been reading this thread and also your one on router bits. FWIW, I suspect that you are fairly new to routing so I would advise thinking carefully about what you actually need. JobandKnock (amonst others) has given you some excellent information and he is correct about starting off with a big heavy router. Unelss your are in the trade or intending doing some heavy woodworking, you may well be better off starting with a smaller machine.

I came to the router late in life so I am nowhere near as experienced as experts like JobandKnock. However, what I did do was research routing (actually to the nth degree!) before I made any purchases. I still have the book I bought (ROUTING FOR BEGINNERS by Anthony Bailey) somewhere. What I learned was that my own needs (mainly softwood and MDF) could be met comfortably by a smaller machine. The advantages to this are

(a) cheaper machine
(b) cheaper bits
(c) easier to learn on

I started off with a very cheap 1/4 inch router and a set of 8 bits. That was great to learn on and I was pleased with the results. I did go on to later purchase a larger 1/2 inch Makita but, TBH, that doesn't get used much because I find nearly everything I need can be done with my smaller machines. I tend to use my 1/4 inch TREND for most projects and this works great. You can pick up a basic TREND 1/4 inch for £75 or less. I also have the DEWALT 'double' kit but that is pricey so forget that.

What I am saying is that going for a bigger router isn't necessarily the way to go. You need to assess what you will be using the router for and go from there.

Don't be tempted to splash out big bucks on kit which you may not need. Been there and done that and regretted it!!

Just my tuppence worth though.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

As promised, pictures of the DW622 with standard depth control fitted (this is used in plunge routing):

It's the silver "rod" to the left of the main body. It works like the depth setting on a million and one other routers, namely:

1. Install cutter. Withdraw the depth rod to highest position
2. "Zero" cutter by plunging the cutter to surface level and lock the router in the plunged position by twisting the left hand knob
3. Release the depth rod and drop it so that it touches the to of one of the screws on the turret
4. Using a piece you wish to recess into a piece of wood (e.g. a hinge into a door edge) lift the depth rod and insert the piece on top of the turret screw before dropping the depth rod onto it. Lock the depth rod and release the router from the plunged position lock
5. When the router is switched on and plunged the cutter depth will be the what is required for the piece (hinge). Fine adjustments can be made by releasing from plunge and dialling in more less depth by twisting the thumb turn at the top of the depth rod to advance or ****** the rod. Then replunge and check

If you wanted to plunge an inch then you'd use a piece of material 1in thick instead of the hinge (say an offcut of the material you are working on). I find joiner's plastic horseshoe packers are invaluable in helping to set-up plunge cuts as they come in 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 10 and 12mm thicknesses.

The DW622 with fine depth adjuster fitted instead of the standard depth rod (this is used in precision overhead routing and table routing):

in this case the thumb turn advances or retreats the cutter 1mm per full turn. A lot of routers use a variation on this system.

Either way you pretty much always will need to make a test cut on a piece of scrap to check that your depth of cut is right (same applies to when you use the fence to check the side depth)

To show the compactness of the DW622, here's the kit in its' box:

That's the router, side fence, fence rods (pr.), 8 x cutters, 4 x guide bushes, 2 x extra collets, extra depth control, 2 x wrenches, screwdriver, square corner chisel, etc in a relatively small box. A bit messy, but this has been a heavy week!

 

[Diver Fred]

James,

When I replied to your question about router bits I was concerned that you had a machine far to powerful, heavy and big (size wise) for your experience - even though I didn't say it at the time.

Now I will.

You really ought to buy a 1/4inch router and a set of bits. It will do everything you want - maybe you will have to make several more passes to make a deep cut but you will be much safer, less tired and it will be less stressful to use. And you will learn how to use one SAFELY.

My late father cut the stringers on something like 200 flights of stairs with his 1/4inch router with a 5/8bits over the years he was working. I've evan cut a couple of kitchen worktops with the same size of router - had to take 5 passes instead of 2 or 3 that could be done with a 1/2inch tool. Thats the all the difference is.

To be honest a cheapo router from Aldi's is good to get you started (and it's what I now take to site as it's affordable to loose...).

Spend the money you save on buying a smaller machine on a dust extractor that can be fitted to the router to collect the copious amounts of dust the router will create.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

My late father cut the stringers on something like 200 flights of stairs with his 1/4inch router with a 5/8bits over the years he was working.

I cut a lot of stuff in the 70s an 80s with a fixed base Stanley router and that had a 1/4in collet, too. I used it because at that time plunge routers were a king's ransom but at that time very few joiners had a router at all. Making so many passes was slow, tedious and prone to error. Times change.