DHW what is the right temp?

I don't necessarily agree with some of what he says. But if you go over your responses to him on multiple threads you're repeatedly rude and rarely constructive. You seem to single him out. I don't get why you have such an issue with him.

I could not care less what my post to thanks ratio is. I'm glad yours makes you feel smug though.
 
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You don't get thanked for being smug , I would of thought it would be the opposite..
It gets a little tiring when the person in question constantly tries to boost his ego by slating registered gas installers in general , I put this down to a false sense of security.
 
Erm I am not quite sure what has kicked off on the thread as I just wanted to know about the hot water setting on the combi boiler and the cold inlet stopcock. Regardless of the banter thank you Tony, Steelmasons, Slippyr4, Terry, Madrab you all helped a rather ditzy newbie who moved into a new flat and is trying to figure the boiler out.
I didn't even know what 'legionella' was and will research into it because I live in a old tenement building where the cold water is via the mains and the bathroom cold taps are supplied by a water tank in the buildings loft as there are 12 units in the building.

Cheers everyone :D
 
I live in a old tenement building where the cold water is via the mains and the bathroom cold taps are supplied by a water tank in the buildings loft as there are 12 units in the building.

Ask your management company to get a plumber in to check the communal cold cistern, ensure it is made of suitable material, it is clean, covered, lagged and has a suitable bylaw kit fitted.
 
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Sorry Job, threads on here often go off topic.

The reason the water gets hot when the tap is turned on halfway, but gets colder when it's fully open, is because the boiler can only output a certain amount of heat, and if there's too much water going through it, then it can't heat it all up. Terry was trying to tell you that depending on the rating on the boiler (and I assume it's a combi) then it's designed to operate best when about 11 litres per minute runs through it. So the slower the water goes, the more heat it picks up, and the hotter it is. Take a 1 litre jug, and see how long it takes to fill it (should be about 5 seconds), but the temp controller showing 1-10 is just a scale, so turn it up to 10 in the winter when the waters cold, and down to about 6 in the summer when the incoming water is warmer.
 
Thanks Doggit, Madrab great advice and you're right I do have a combi boiler (Vokera combi 29) which I believe was installed 4 years ago, it has a wireless thermostat which is a bit too high tech for me nonetheless I will figure out how to set it because the heating doesn't come on yet it is stuck on summer mode and it is freezing. (I will try to YouTube it because my landlord is away on holiday and the agency haven't bothered to help).

I have just moved into the flat I decided to look at the paperwork management gave me including water tests which were done and they all state that the water is safe and no detection of bad bacteria. I do find the water quite hard and dry in this building but it could be due to the fact it is old, old pipes etc.. and it is a shared building. Anyway if I have anymore questions I really do appreciate everyones advice and hints because I am learning and taking what you say onboard.
 
I can't remember the temperature, but isn't there an "ideal" to set it to to avoid limescale build-up? It may be contradictory to the setpoint for avoiding legionella though

Nozzle
 
I can't remember the temperature, but isn't there an "ideal" to set it to to avoid limescale build-up? It may be contradictory to the setpoint for avoiding legionella though

Nozzle
Yup, I believe the balancing point is around 60Deg
 
You will have been given a legionnaires assessment when you rented the property, and as there is no standing water, it will be classed as low risk, but if the property has been empty for over 2 weeks, then you would have been told to flush the system through for a few minutes before using it.

And check out the online instructions for the boiler as well JOB, so that the two items are both working as they should. Have you managed to check the flow rate yet; your boiler is rated at 11.9ltrs, and there should be able to adjust this under the boiler, 2nd pipe from the right. This will mean you can turn the tap on full, and it'll be hot, not lukewarm any longer.
 
Wow thank you for the information I certainly need to check a few things in regards of the combi boiler. The flat was empty for 2 months before I moved in and I was given a booklet in how to operate the boiler (can't say I understand it I am dyslexic) but this forum has been more useful than anything else. I didn't know to flush the system before using it I feel kind of silly with all these questions.

I have taken pictures of the wireless thermostat and the pipes set up under and attached to the boiler does everything look okay?

How do I find out the flow rate as mentioned above which pipe from the photo should I be looking at? The thermostat is driving me crazy as I followed the set up as on YouTube but it still doesn't put the heating on I nearly broke the thing by mistake as I was spinning the dial like a crazy person but I will try again tomorrow. Does the thermostat affect the water temp at all or just the central heating?
 

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to check the flow rate of the boiler, turn the hit tap on fully, and either see how many seconds to fill a litre jug, of fill a bucket for a minute, and see how many litres are in it. If it's higher than 12 litres per minute, then you need to adjust the 2nd pipe from the right on the boiler (or the one that gets hot when the taps turned on). There should be a slotted adjustment where the pipe sit under the boiler, and this should slow the flow of water, and so get it hotter.

The thermostat only controls the times that the heating comes on, and has no control over the hot water at all. I'm not sure about the boiler, but it will have time periods on, and very likely what are called set back periods for when the heating would normally be off. You'd set the thermostat so that you want say 21C at 7:30 in the morning, and then you have it go off at maybe 9am when you go to work, but if it's a set back system, then you'd change it to go to 5C at 9am, and then set it to be 21C at 4:30pm, and then back to 5C at 10pm when you want the heating to go off at night Let me know the model no.
 
to check the flow rate of the boiler, turn the hit tap on fully, and either see how many seconds to fill a litre jug, of fill a bucket for a minute, and see how many litres are in it. If it's higher than 12 litres per minute, then you need to adjust the 2nd pipe from the right on the boiler (or the one that gets hot when the taps turned on). There should be a slotted adjustment where the pipe sit under the boiler, and this should slow the flow of water, and so get it hotter.

The thermostat only controls the times that the heating comes on, and has no control over the hot water at all. I'm not sure about the boiler, but it will have time periods on, and very likely what are called set back periods for when the heating would normally be off. You'd set the thermostat so that you want say 21C at 7:30 in the morning, and then you have it go off at maybe 9am when you go to work, but if it's a set back system, then you'd change it to go to 5C at 9am, and then set it to be 21C at 4:30pm, and then back to 5C at 10pm when you want the heating to go off at night Let me know the model no.

You obviously know fook all about boilers.

There is no valve on the hot outlet pipe on any combi. Any restrictions are made on the cold inlet!!
 
what has legionella got to do with the op to start with ?
Nowt, I mentioned that a while back, somebody mentioned it at the start when it doesn't apply to a combi.

Job, avoid playing with the valves under the boiler. Turn the dial up to 10, if the hot water still isn't hot enough turn the hot tap down a little, it will get hotter
 

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