diverter valve question

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22 Mar 2005
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hello does anyone have any experience with these things.
the thing is in telling where the position of the valve is.
if i turn every thing off than say turn the controller on to heating then the room stat on full does the arm on the valve move over AND if so how do i tell if it has by looking at the 3 port valve
 
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when its off or hot water only there will be spring resistance on the lever, when its on ch only the lever will move right across to the other side and in mid position it will be half way.
 
ollski said:
when its off or hot water only there will be spring resistance on the lever, when its on ch only the lever will move right across to the other side and in mid position it will be half way.
sorry ollski if i sound a bit thick but to test if it is functioning correctly which would be the best way to test it say test 1. complaint of no heating what would i look for.
and test 2. no hot water but heating. is there a way i can test with a multimeter cheers............
 
make it easier for me....what fault have you actually got?
 
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What I did on a potterton, was to remove the actuator head from the spindle and observe the 'D' shaped hole. With all power off to the boiler the spring returns the valve to the rest position which is HW only. When you put the power back on and call for HW. The 'D' hole will not move. Next call for both HW and CH, actuator turned about 45 degrees to mid position. Next call for CH only. The actuator will then continue for another 45 degrees. In practice if it don't move as above you have either a duff motor or it's wired wrong. Also make sure the spindle of the valve is easy to turn. In fact you should be able to hear or feel when the motor runs. Also expect a little delay between switching to CH and the valve moving. If you check the voltage on the orange wire in the junction box when you have CH only that will prove the motor has moved. You can also feel at the pipes when on CH only, the pipe to cylinder will be a little cooler.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
MANDATE said:
What I did on a potterton, was to remove the actuator head from the spindle and observe the 'D' shaped hole. With all power off to the boiler the spring returns the valve to the rest position which is HW only. When you put the power back on and call for HW. The 'D' hole will not move. Next call for both HW and CH, actuator turned about 45 degrees to mid position. Next call for CH only. The actuator will then continue for another 45 degrees. In practice if it don't move as above you have either a duff motor or it's wired wrong. Also make sure the spindle of the valve is easy to turn. In fact you should be able to hear or feel when the motor runs. Also expect a little delay between switching to CH and the valve moving. If you check the voltage on the orange wire in the junction box when you have CH only that will prove the motor has moved. You can also feel at the pipes when on CH only, the pipe to cylinder will be a little cooler.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
thanks mandate this has helped a lot thanks
 
Hi Dave! I think I should clarify the voltage check on the orange wire. With a correctly working system and selecting CH only you will not need to check the voltage on the orange, because the boiler will flash up proving power was present on the orange. In my case the valve moved but the boiler did not flash up and a voltage check showed power was not present. The reason for this was due to a faulty microswitch.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

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