DIY fit of Burglar alarm.

The panel supply should be from a 3 amp fused spur off the lighting ring or ring main.


sorry , NO it should not, the panels must be supplied from ther ring main ONLY.
Why's that Breezer? The previous alarm system here, which was ripped out, was powered via a fused spur from a lighting/power circuit. Don't really want to have to allocate a way in the CU just for the alarm (spare ways getting a bit precious!)
As for the remainder of what you said, i agree with most of it (except panel choice) but we could argue that one till the cows come home.
Which one would you recommend Breezer? These things all come down to personal preference but then I can have a look myself. The local wholesaler only sells Texecom, so I have no variety to choose from there, don't even know the names of other manufacturers.
The fellow above this reply is correct. To get a police response, your system needs to be installed and commisioned by an approved installer (a member of the NSI, SSAIB etc) You can buy dialers, which are literally that. When your alarm is activation, the dialer phones up your friends/relatives (usually about 4 numbers on the basic ones) and plays a pre-recorded message. There are now units available that can send text and pager messages, with details of the alarm condition. You can add these units to most alarms although the manual for the Texecom Veritas does'nt make it clear if you can use a dialer with their panel. The ADE Optima G3 does have a communicator, and is not much more expensive than the Texecom. If I told you what panel I'd prefer, and then the price, you're jaw would drop Like I said, the Texecom panels are not bad at all really. Better than most, and ideal for most domestic situations. It's a toss between the Veritas or an ADE Optima, which has the dialer outputs. Whats your budget?
Not sure really, but as little as possible! I was hoping to buy and install the whole lot for under £200, is that reasonable? Surely there must be many people moving into houses that have alarms fitted but without knowing if the installer was qualified, there must be some way of getting a system retrospectively approved no?
 
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JDLDIY said:
Not sure really, but as little as possible! I was hoping to buy and install the whole lot for under £200, is that reasonable? Surely there must be many people moving into houses that have alarms fitted but without knowing if the installer was qualified, there must be some way of getting a system retrospectively approved no?

That's not a bad budget. At least you are'nt opting for one of those things from Argos! You can probably put together a kit consisting of 4 PIR's, a couple of door contacts, a panic button, a panel and RKP, a bell box and dummy box, a 100 meter roll of 6 or 8 core and an FCU for £200. Here a few online suppliers:

http://www.moretonalarms.com/acatalog/Alarm_Section.html
http://www.electrotec-alarms.co.uk/alarmkits.html
http://www.dwesecurity.co.uk/index.htm

What kind of house do you have? Any external full length glass doors? Semi, detatched, bungalow or terrace? Bedrooms? If you could draw a plan of your house in MS Paint, it'd be easier to figure out what kind of detectors you need :cool:
 
alarm_guy said:
If you could draw a plan of your house in MS Paint, it'd be easier to figure out what kind of detectors you need :cool:

you already know you are going to say pirs, besides a "pro" wouldnt ask some one to show their house lay out on the net, email yes, on the net, NO
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as for which panel yes it is mostly "personal taste", but then as alsrm guy mentioned there is also more than one wholsaler. you did also mention scantronic.
Scantronic have been in the industry for years, so its fair to say they do know how to make an alarm panel
 
breezer said:
you already know you are going to say pirs, besides a "pro" wouldnt ask some one to show their house lay out on the net, email yes, on the net, NO

Fair enough, but a description at least would be nice. Whats wrong with putting the layout of your house on the net? Please don't tell me it's becuase it may be of use to any burglars :eek: Most houses have a fairly similar layout anyway (entrance hall and lounge at the front, dining room and kitchen with back door at the rear and maybe a conservatory) at least in my experience.

Optimum coverage cannot be obtained by PIRs alone. Good perimeter protection is prefered (shock sensors, glass break detectors, contacts etc) You want to frighten the burglars off while they are attempting to gain entry, not when they have already done so.
 
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alarm_guy said:
Good perimeter protection is prefered (shock sensors, glass break detectors, contacts etc) You want to frighten the burglars off while they are attempting to gain entry, not when they have already done so.
100% agreed with you and this is the alarm system I have and my own personal opinion regarding the PIR's got to be a waste of time if the burglars is already inside your property !
 
I fitted loads of systems using the ADE Accenta panel, the RKP is neat and tidy for fitting near the front door fitted them with the Medusa PIR, never had a problem with them and never had false alarms. Bought most of them from Moreton who are very good. Put one in my own house 4 years ago and its armed every single day, the wife disables upstairs zones when I am on night shift ( if she can do it anybody can do it) Hope thats all she gets up to :LOL: Good value for money system for the domestic user just be carefull if you are going to wire it yourself and don't run the cables anywere near electric cables or you will allways get false activations.
 
masona said:
regarding the PIR's got to be a waste of time if the burglars is already inside your property !

that is as may be, but then again that is what they are designed for, they are known as trap detection.
You have to bear in mind that the pir is years old and for its time, one detector to cover a whole room at the same time that is clever.

first there was the ultrasonic detector (awfull things) then there was the microwave detector

Then came the pir, its price has come way down (along with its size) but it was still designed to be trap protection.

perimiter protection was origonally contacts (and more, long story) shock detectors are "ok" provided they are correctly positioned and set up.

break glass detetcors are clever in theory, not in practice, leave a window open and some one outside smahes a bottle, and off they go (they are doing what they are suppsoed to do)

if you really want something to upset intruders get a smoke cloak
basically they are like a big smoke machine that when the alarm goes off fills the room with harmless smoke so the intruders cant see anything, but like all good things they are not cheap.

me, i will stick with my pirs thank you
 
I fitted the alarm here: Accenta + Flashguard + Quads + PD's and got it Nacoss approved after installation.

It's not impossible.

Also, there is mention of a 3A spur - some mfrs (ADE are one) stipulate a 2A fuse only. When I brought back a damage pcb once, they refused to replace it cos the system had a 3A fuse......
 
Did that cost much. How did you go about it and does an approved firm have to maintain the systemafter approval.
Reason I ask is if I installed the alarm system say in a new build along with the electric installation could I then get it approved by NACOSS and handed over to an approved firm for a maintainance contract.
Thanks
 
Can't remember, sorry.

Don't know if you need an approved firm - I do all the maintenance having installed it myself.
 
oldspark said:
does an approved firm have to maintain the system after approval.

nacoss dont aprove it, it has to be installed / taken over by a nacoss approved company.

it must comply with a whole load of regs, and if it is to call the police (to be added by nacoss company) it has to comply with even more, which could mean extra protection / new panel to cope
 
breezer said:
me, i will stick with my pirs thank you
As you say they are difference alarm system for suitable need, I do shiftwork and when I'm on nightshift my family can put the alarm on early and walk around the house with our 3 cats without setting the alarm off, I believe this wouldn't be practical with pir's alarm for us. I should imagine the shock detectors sensor are only any good if your windows are suitable for the vibration to set it off. Again this is my own opinion, I do feel strongly that my family would be safer if the alarm goes off with the burglars outside the property rather than inside, there again I think we are allow to beat the burglars up aren't we ? ;)

ps: I not heard of smoke cloak though, do you know if they are successful ? I would've thought the burglars need to see their way out :!: :)
 
As you say they are difference alarm system for suitable need, I do shiftwork and when I'm on nightshift my family can put the alarm on early and walk around the house with our 3 cats without setting the alarm off, I believe this wouldn't be practical with pir's alarm for us.
So do you then have every door and window protected by the alarm? What should a perimiter alarm system cover, every window and door, or just the doors? Thinking about it I would certainly like the system I buy to be able to be activated to protect the perimeter of the house and allow for movement inside, I am also a shiftworker with a family to think about. Is this possible with most systems?
 
JDLDIY said:
As you say they are difference alarm system for suitable need, I do shiftwork and when I'm on nightshift my family can put the alarm on early and walk around the house with our 3 cats without setting the alarm off, I believe this wouldn't be practical with pir's alarm for us.
So do you then have every door and window protected by the alarm? What should a perimiter alarm system cover, every window and door, or just the doors? Thinking about it I would certainly like the system I buy to be able to be activated to protect the perimeter of the house and allow for movement inside, I am also a shiftworker with a family to think about. Is this possible with most systems?

You could do that easilly. Contact on every external door, contacts and shock sensors on the windows. The best idea is to have PIRs for your trap detection, and shock sensors and contacts for perimeter detection. Then, when you want to set the alarm but retain freedom of movement, you can "part set" the system to switch off the PIRs, leaving the perimeter protection in place. When you "full set" the system, both perimeter and PIR protection will be active (99% of panels have this option) It's the most secure way of doing it, but you will take up alot of zones on your panel, so you'll need to get a panel compatible with a zone expander.

And if you really want to scare the buggers off, get one of these:

http://www.klaxonsignals.com/downloads/Inferno.pdf

Apparently, the sound is intolerable, but so is the price.
 
Basically alarm_guy has anwer your question.
JDLDIY said:
So do you then have every door and window protected by the alarm?
Yes, all my windows including the velux windows have shock sensors and even the front doors and patio door have a shock sensors as well as a door entry contact sensors plus a panic button near the front door and one in the bedroom. I also have 5 smoke detectors link to the alarm system. The control panel also tell you which windows has been hit. I don't have any PIR's. My yearly maintence service cost approximately £40 per year.
JDLDIY said:
What should a perimiter alarm system cover, every window and door, or just the doors? Thinking about it I would certainly like the system I buy to be able to be activated to protect the perimeter of the house and allow for movement inside, I am also a shiftworker with a family to think about. Is this possible with most systems?
The choice is yours, you can have whatever you want done !
 

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