DIY vs professional bricklaying

[Peter500]

I want to build an extension and I'd like to do the brickwork myself. Some people have told me that it takes professionals years to get good at it. While I understand that it can take years to become fast (particularly with the more complicated things), is it really needed for something fairly simple?

My existing house was built with many other houses a few decades ago, by professionals. If you look at the brickwork closely, it seems pretty poor. I saw a perp that was far wider than 10mm, probably around 15mm but I haven't measured. The perps don't line up, they're wavy and go to one side. The pointing is acceptable but it doesn't look great and the mortar colour varies. Is brickwork usually like this?

I've seem some 'fast' brickies in videos online and some of their work is disappointing. I remember being able to see daylight through one of the perps. I'm worried about employing a brickie and then having to send him home. Also, if these guys are in so much of a hurry to get the bricks down, will they spend the time to get the insulation right (which can be a bit fiddly with some of the modern PIR insulation).

 

[Iamchamps]

If you feel confident I personally would attempt it. I have done a lot of DIY over the years being quite a perfectionist and can assure you I have done a better job than a “professional” who would have been in the trade for years and charge lots of money. Why? Because I take my time and don’t accept if something is not in my eyes perfect.

Some things I would not attempt for instance if it was a one off job and the tools cost more than what I would pay someone, or something requiring certain credentials I.e gas safe.

 

[noseall]

Bricklaying - hmm. I could write a book.

Some bricks are easier to lay than others. If you are lucky and have an easy brick to lay, decent muck. decent gauge, decent weather then there is no reason why you cant turn out acceptable brickwork.

A good brickie really earns his salt when the weather is bad, the gauge is big, the bricks are rock hard and the muck is rubbish.

Don't judge your work until it is fully dried out. Don't forget the ties especially at the jambs. Watch your perps. Watch your gauge. Resist throwing in damaged bricks. Always point up before the muck dries out too much. Good luck with the level.

Skimming (internal plastering) is ten times easier than bricklaying.

 

[stuart45]

Only problem with plastering is that it's no so easy to take your time.
Don't forget that tradesmen have to earn a living from their work so have to work to a timescale.

 

[23vc]

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/bricklaying-on-your-own.484004/

Agree with noseall, I’ve turned out some decent looking work on mine, and where it matters like on visible gable end looks pretty good. But that was last summer with great weather. Had a mare earlier this year when it rained solid for weeks (hard to believe right now obviously), totally different ball game with non absorbent bricks etc.

Yeah harder than skimming, but maybe on a par with doing a decent job of s&c rendering or floor screeding?

 

[^woody^]

Perhaps it takes a bricklayer to know when a 15mm joint is preferable to a 10mm joint?

 

[23vc]

Deffo, I continuously c*cked up the bond on mine and the gauge. Still do, although getting slightly better. All part of a massive learning curve

 

[Peter500]

Skimming (internal plastering) is ten times easier than bricklaying.

Wow, I'm not convinced. The problem with skimming is that you have limited time to get it right, and you (ideally) need to do it all in one go. Also, the finish is more critical with skimming, a dip of just 1mm will stand out on plaster.

One of the nice things with brickwork is if you get it wrong, you have time to remove the bricks and try again. Even if the mortar has gone hard, it's still possible to remove bricks, although it's a lot more work. You can't really remove plaster once it's gone hard.

 

[stuart45]

I saw a perp that was far wider than 10mm, probably around 15mm but I haven't measured.

If it's only one perp out in the house that's not really a bad standard. 10mm is the standard joint size, but as brick lengths can vary slightly you often have to adjust the sizes of the joints to make up for this. Getting the Cross joints truly plumb takes a bit more care ( normally plumbing up about every 4th joint) so this can add to the cost of the masonry.

 

[cdbe]

I know people laugh at them but try a "Brickie" tool. Having never laid a brick in my life I built the gate post, garage and 5m wall beyond the garage last year:

I will be building my large rear extension next. My dad is a retired bricklayer, said the silly plastic thing was a waste of time and initially offered to teach me how to do it properly but when he saw how (relatively) quickly I could get the bricks down with it he begrudgingly admitted that it would take weeks if not months to reach a similar standard the traditional way. I didn't use a line, just a level and a long straight edge. You need to keep a close eye on the your horizontal levels and keep it plumbed as it goes up. You need to manage your perps as the tool applies a uniform thickness of mortar which sometimes isn't enough if you have a slightly shorter brick.
In terms of time, if you think about it, a good part of your "bricklaying" time is spent mixing, laying out your bricks, setting up your mortar board/bucket (I worked out of a flexi bucket with a bucket trowel), cleaning your tools and jointing up etc and a Pro can't do this a great deal quicker than you.

I agree, far easier than skimming - even with help from my silly plastic speedskim and plaziflex.

 

[23vc]

even with help from my silly plastic speedskim and plaziflex.

just bought a speedskim, not used it yet. Any good? also got a plazi last year - not convinced it's too useful apart from a final wipe at the end

 

[stuart45]

I know people laugh at them but try a "Brickie" tool. Having never laid a brick in my life I built the gate post, garage and 5m wall beyond the garage last year:View attachment 146058

I will be building my large rear extension next. My dad is a retired bricklayer, said the silly plastic thing was a waste of time and initially offered to teach me how to do it properly but when he saw how (relatively) quickly I could get the bricks down with it he begrudgingly admitted that it would take weeks if not months to reach a similar standard the traditional way. I didn't use a line, just a level and a long straight edge. You need to keep a close eye on the your horizontal levels and keep it plumbed as it goes up. You need to manage your perps as the tool applies a uniform thickness of mortar which sometimes isn't enough if you have a slightly shorter brick.
In terms of time, if you think about it, a good part of your "bricklaying" time is spent mixing, laying out your bricks, setting up your mortar board/bucket (I worked out of a flexi bucket with a bucket trowel), cleaning your tools and jointing up etc and a Pro can't do this a great deal quicker than you.

I agree, far easier than skimming - even with help from my silly plastic speedskim and plaziflex.

I've never used the Brickie tool, so I can't really comment on it's use, but the brickwork looks OK as far as I can see in the photo.
However it does look like you have got a split course at the top of the door jambs. Was that because it's difficult to adjust the bed joints with the Brickie tool?

 

[Ian H]

I did my own brickwork on the back and side of my house, it looks ****.

I got a bricky to do the front, that looks **** too.

 

[^woody^]

I got a bricky to do the front, that looks **** too

Thats because it's always best to match in with the existing. Thats what you pay a pro for, that special knowledge.

 

[Ian H]

They match, or they will when I get the old ones cleaned, he just didn't lay them as well as I'd hoped.