Downlighters

[chillout]

Im having downlights fiited in ceiling on first floor, above is the loft area which has been boarded out. Aurora basically have said they do not need to be fire rated but they are better for keeping dirt etc away from the unit.

I asked if the insulation guards were an option, but the guy who was very helpful said that he wouldnt advise putting insulation over this, but in their catalogue it shows this as what they are designed for?

What do you think I should go for? Fire rated ones, normal downlights with insulation guards (but larger in depth than joists) or downlights and just remove insulation around them, even though bldg regs staes this should be unbroken.

Help! Im confused.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf

Pre-formed cap to seal downlights: http://www.aico.co.uk/firecap_loftcap.htm (It's NOT a firehood....)

The guy you spoke to is correct about not needing fire-rated ones, but if he says that the better sealing with them has dirt-related advantages then you may want to use them.

Or you may elect to seal them. You're right about the Building Regs & insulation, and the regs also say that you've got to prevent condensation, and guess what will happen when warm moist air from your house gets into the cold space in your loft above the insulation....

 

[LiamPope]

The fire rated downlights I'm using (from TLC) can have mineral insulation layed over, and that's with the supplied halogens. Replace those for CFLs or LEDs and heat is even less of an issue. Tick all the boxes, wherever you wish to install them

 

[SamHandy]

building control officers around the country all seem to be working to different rules.

The Fire rated can, type downlighter is to 'reinstate' the fire break which was your ceiling before you cut a 70mm hole in it. It will also help stop debris dropping on the lamp but is a minor point.

All halogen downlights run hot, over 200 Deg C for 50w (lamp surface) so all that heat needs to go somewhere or you'll be replacing lamps evey 10 minutes.

If you need to re-lay the insulation to be un-broken to comply with regulations, you will need something like the DIG340 box. There isn't as yet a downlighter that you can lay insulation over (As far as i am aware).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The Fire rated can, type downlighter is to 'reinstate' the fire break which was your ceiling before you cut a 70mm hole in it.

Yup, but if your ceiling was not a fire compartment boundary then it would only have had a 30 minute rating, and the holes for downlighters don't impair that.

By all means fit them if it makes you happier, or if it stops dead spiders falling into the room below, but don't, if you can avoid it, let an ignorant BCO bully you into fitting them if you don't need and don't want them.

 

[SamHandy]

Agreed, but pee BCO's off and they'll find 5 other things they want done to get back at you.

They sign the building off at the end of the day. Unless you want a big fight on your hands do what is required.

 

[chillout]

Cheers guys, alot to consider.

 

[LiamPope]

I'm using these fire rated downlights in my bathroom. Note that the instructions say that where required by building regs you can lightly cover (whatever that means) the product with mineral wool insulation, though they do recommend providing free air space. With energy saving bulbs running much cooler than the standard 50W halogens, that's less of an issue. As I said, they do seem to tick all the boxes - acoustic and moisture related, too.

Liam