Downlights - what can we install in the ceiling?

[shabbaranks]

Hi all...

Looking to buy some downlights to fit in a bungalow hallway, kitchen and bathroom. I appreciate the bathroom lights need to be zone rated preferably zone 1 but what about the hallway and kitchen? Do they need to be fire rated and hooded? Ive been told this is for houses but not necessarily for bungalows is this correct?

Thanks

 

[riveralt]

Hi all...

Looking to buy some downlights to fit in a bungalow hallway, kitchen and bathroom. I appreciate the bathroom lights need to be zone rated preferably zone 1

Why zone 1?
Look here: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:speclcn:bathroom_zones

but what about the hallway and kitchen? Do they need to be fire rated and hooded?

No.

Ive been told this is for houses but not necessarily for bungalows is this correct?

Yes
If you are replacing the current lighting units then there are no part p notification issues - though you still must comply with part p - but if you are changing the circuits characteristics then you need to follow BS7671 and notify you LABC.
Your spark will be doing this anyway when he fits the new Consumer Unit - best get it done at the same time.

 

[shabbaranks]

Thanks, the leccy said to go for zone 1 in the bathroom regardless as theres steam etc about so its always wise to go for this.

The lights which are currently in the hall/kitchen will be replaced and the wiring changed as they arent downlights they are the other (standard??) wired lights.

I guess you read my consumer unit post so if a customer bought thier own downlights would you be prepared to install them? Or would you prefer to install some which you bought yourself?

Thanks!!

 

[riveralt]

I guess you read my consumer unit post so if a customer bought thier own downlights would you be prepared to install them? Or would you prefer to install some which you bought yourself?

I would fit your lights but would not guarantee them.

By the way - you will need considerably more downlights to give you a satifactory light - so you will need a lot more holes in your ceiling.

Use the slide on this website to see the quality of lighting of downlights most of which average around 35degree beam angle.
http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/article/spotlight-beam-angles/

 

[shabbaranks]

Thats fine, now we dont need to go firehooded we can add some additionals not a problem. In a kitchen 3.8m length by 1.8m I planned 6 lights would you say go for 8? Or maybe more? The lights we intend on using are the LED warm lights. Also the hallway again we can chuck a few more in, intensions were 5 (its a T shape) but again we could go 10 or so. I know its hard to visualise but from your experience - any ideas? Thanks

 

[riveralt]

Thats fine, now we dont need to go firehooded we can add some additionals not a problem. In a kitchen 3.8m length by 1.8m I planned 6 lights would you say go for 8? Or maybe more? The lights we intend on using are the LED warm lights. Also the hallway again we can chuck a few more in, intensions were 5 (its a T shape) but again we could go 10 or so. I know its hard to visualise but from your experience - any ideas? Thanks

I will fit what the customer wants in terms of lighting provided the circuit can handle the load - It is a personal viewpoint but I would always advise my customers not to go down the downlight route they just don't provide the correct amount of light in the right places. Think especially of kitchens when you are cutting and slicing (your fingers ) because of the lack of a proper light.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Your downlights in the bathroom should ideally comply with part c of the building regulations, I would always suggest you go with fire rated downlights to. Even though this may not be a requirement, if there is no living space above the location the lights are being installed.
Also be aware that you may compromise the insulation properties of the building by installing down lights, unless you install units that can be covered or shields/guards/caps/hoods that can be placed over units and allow insulation to laid over them.

 

[shabbaranks]

I do wonder how we've survived all these years without the rules and regulations. It wont be long before we have to get a permit and planning permission to wipe our arse's.

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll have a chat to the sparkey whilst Im connecting the CU to see what he says

Cheers

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I do wonder how we've survived all these years without the rules and regulations.

some people haven't or their property hasn't, that's why they are there.

 

[shabbaranks]

But you read other posts and look at other countries, if it was a safety concern wouldnt we drop the voltage like they have in the states? Also and I know this, you'll never stop the people who want to do thier own thing. I appreciate that the trades have to earn a living, but they wouldnt charge so much if they didnt have to retrain in this and pass that to earn a living. Im no tradie, but as I understand it if its not Corgi registered its gas safe etc etc. Am I being pesamistic when I say its just another hidden tax/cost?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Do you think dropping the voltage, would prevent fire and moisture?

 

[Aragorn84]

I dont believe the states ever dropped their voltage.

Edisons original system away back in the 1800's was 110v DC, and when AC finally won out in the DC-AC battle the voltage stuck.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you are replacing the current lighting units then there are no part p notification issues

1) Part P and notification are unrelated.

2) If he replaces a light in a kitchen or bathroom with a downlight then that is not notifiable. If he replaces a light with multiple downlights then he's adding lights, which is notifiable.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The lights which are currently in the hall/kitchen will be replaced and the wiring changed as they arent downlights they are the other (standard??) wired lights.

If the changes (even a straight replacement) in the kitchen result in new wiring then that's notifiable too.

I guess you read my consumer unit post

We did.

Did you read and take on board the replies?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thats fine, now we dont need to go firehooded we can add some additionals not a problem. In a kitchen 3.8m length by 1.8m I planned 6 lights would you say go for 8? Or maybe more? The lights we intend on using are the LED warm lights. Also the hallway again we can chuck a few more in, intensions were 5 (its a T shape) but again we could go 10 or so. I know its hard to visualise but from your experience - any ideas? Thanks

I never cease to be amazed by the number of people who realise that to replace one proper light they need 6, 8, 10, or more downlights but to whom it never occurs that the reason they need so many is that downlights are useless at lighting up rooms.

They came out of the retail/display market, where they were specifically designed to highlight, or spot light, individual features or items.

They were actually specifically designed to not have the characteristics which are the most important ones you need when lighting up rooms.

They were actually deliberately designed to be no good for lighting up rooms.

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