Dpc advice for a French new build?

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Hi,

I am in the midst of building our new home in France and would like, for obvious reasons to install a DPC.

The building is quite different to an average UK building (but standard for over here) so I am having a hard time finding information on, determining the correct type and method of installing a DPC.

In France the average DPC is either non existant or a simple screed with a waterproofing admix. When I ask about the bitumen/plastic roll type dpc over here, which does exist by the way, I get some strange looks and virtually everyone trys to talk me out of the idea for reasons like "it creates a fracture in the upper and lower half of the building, the building will not be as solid" etc.

The french regs do state that either -

1/ The concrete lower floor extend fully out through the whole width of the wall or if this is not the case (as in my building) that either a mortar/waterproofing admix screen is run along the whole length of each wall. The bottom of the floor should be a minimum of 5cm above the finished exterior ground level.

2/ A bitumen/pvc/plastic type dpc can be used sandwiched between two beds of mortar at a height of at least 15cm above the exterior ground level.

There you go then I here you say! Well here is my problem.

I would prefer to not do the screed method because firstly I am not particularly confident that it will act as a good dpc for the life of the building and secondly most so called builders only do this method over here for the simple reason theat the walls are not level! Mine obviously are.

The type of structure that I am building is used in approx 80% of new build over here now and consists of a strip foundation and a single bearing wall (no cavity over here) normally built with concrete breeze blocks (20x50x20cm) at various heights but in my case is the standard 60cm/3 course. This wall is has vertical rrebar reinforcement at the corners and every 5m in long runs, tied into the foundation reinforcement.
The plumbing, drainage, elec supploes are run inside this "crawl space" then into the house.

The exterior ground level with be 40cm up this wall so the dpc would need to be on top of the 3rd course.

The ground floor is a block and beam type floor which consists of dry laid pre stressed concrete beams laid across the walls, interlocking insulation polystyrene panels (were required), otherwise osb/plastic panels, steel reinforcement rebar around each length of wall tied into the vertical reinforcements in the wall (at corners and every 5m approx), steel reinforcement mesh panels across the whole surface and a slim approx 5cm thick/20cm high brick is laid around the perimeter which acts as shuttering for the concrete compression screed on the top. Might sound complicated but isn't really.

So my thought regarding the dpc -

it has to be at 15cm or above the finished exterior ground level which puts it directly on top of the wall before the block and beam floor.

In needs to be under this floor really anyway to stop any moisture entering the floor and walls (in this type of stucture ober here a DPM is not used as the floor is supended).

As the beams are laid dry (only on the inner edge of the wall, approx 7cm) and are quite heavy I would think that a mortar bed under the DPC is pointless ? (The wall top is quite smooth, no frogs but the blocks do have thub holes in for lifting).

Can the dpc in this case be laid dry do you think?, could there be any problems with this (remember there are 14x14cm concrete vertical reinforced sections in the wall at every corner and every 5m on the longer straight spans, extending from the concrete foundation to the top of the wall).

Yes I realise that the dpc would have to have small holes cut out for the rebar to extend through which sort of defeats the object but must be better than nothing and think that damp has a hard time creeping up through concrete :)

My real problem (if a problem at all) is the "shutter block) which is approx 5cm thick but has a wide lower portion. This is laid using mortar around the perimeter as I have said and acts as shuttering for the screed. The main problem is - Will this hold ontop of the dry laid dpc??especially while the concrete is being poured? Obviously after the concrete has set there will be no problem at all.

Do you think it would a good idea in this case to apply a bitumen primer to the wall top and torch bond the dpc (obviously a bitumen based dpc) to the wall. (Visqueen zeedex high bond?).

Wow, sorry a bit of a long post!

Let me know your thoughts please. Can post photos if needed.

Cheers, Matt
 
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Interesting question but I know nothing about French construction techniques.

However, I was taught that dry laid DPC was wrong and it should always be laid on a thin bed of mortar and a full bed above. When I have had to cut out bricks laid like that the bond with the DPC has been surprisingly strong assuming the DPC has the embossed surface for good adhesion.

The other point is would you pour the screed with just the "shutter block" in place or would you screed once the walls were up and the building was weathertight?
 
Brace the "shutter block" while the screed is laid.
I've seen a house built in France with hollow polystyrene blocks, which are then filled with concrete. The whole walls are braced while the concrete is poured.
 
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Hi, thanks for the replies.

Yes I realise that a the prefered method of laying a DPC is between two beds of mortar but in this type of construction as the pre stressed concrete beams are laid dry onto the bearing wall and would just extrude the wet mortar out from under the dpc, it really would not work?

Do you not think that a suitable bitumin primer on the top of the wall and torch bonding a good bitumen DPC to the primed surface would be a good compromise?

I realise that picturing this type of building may be hard as it is not common in the UK and it probably sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is so here is a photo of the actual layout of this type of building apart from the lower bearing wall is a slightly different block which is not open on the top side.

zoom_planelle_RDC_vide_sanitaire.jpg


This is another photo which shows the structure I am using with the same block and also the dpc in postion (number 4).

dalle-1-zoom.jpg


pose_poutrelles2.jpg


Cheers
 
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Interesting question but I know nothing about French construction techniques.

However, I was taught that dry laid DPC was wrong and it should always be laid on a thin bed of mortar and a full bed above. When I have had to cut out bricks laid like that the bond with the DPC has been surprisingly strong assuming the DPC has the embossed surface for good adhesion.

The other point is would you pour the screed with just the "shutter block" in place or would you screed once the walls were up and the building was weathertight?

Hi, no the lower floor screed is poured just after the block and beams, reinforcement and perimeter shutter block are in place then the actual walls of the house are built on top.

Cheers
 
Brace the "shutter block" while the screed is laid.
I've seen a house built in France with hollow polystyrene blocks, which are then filled with concrete. The whole walls are braced while the concrete is poured.

Hi, yes I know this system to but as the hollow polystyrene blocks (like lego) are so light they need to be braced when they are being filled with concrete otherwise they are likely to move out of alignment.

This building is just bricks and mortar, with a twist :)

It would be quite a job to brace the "shutter block" when pouring the screed as the perimeter is around 90m.

If the dpc is torch bonded I am pretty sure that the shutter block will be fine as the bitumen type dpc's have a sand texture and the blocks have a wide footprint than the rest of the block? I will find a photo.

Cheers, Matt
 
Here are a few photos of the shutter block (Planelle as it is called here) which is laid around the perimeter of the building (mortar).

caracteristique-planelles-1.png


Here is a similar building showing the same structure layout.

1200x500.jpg
 
Yes I realise that a the prefered method of laying a DPC is between two beds of mortar but in this type of construction as the pre stressed concrete beams are laid dry onto the bearing wall and would just extrude the wet mortar out from under the dpc, it really would not work?
Doesn't it rather depend on the "slump" of the mortar?
 
Doesn't it rather depend on the "slump" of the mortar?

Yes, a mix with a lower slump would obviously be better but if you look at how the beams are laid just a few cm's on the edge of the bearing wall and the fact that they are 4.5m in length and approx 90kg they would still end up extruding the motar and raising the dpc between each beam. This may also risk damaging the dpc and make it more difficult to lay the shutter block?
 
Lay your mortar bed, and weighted down DPC, go for lunch, lay your beams.
 
Lay your mortar bed, and weighted down DPC, go for lunch, lay your beams.

Hi, yes I did think of that and presumed you would also come back with that reply. Do you think that this would be the best way ?

When the weight is removed surely the dpc will not be stuck ? And as the beams are spaced at approx 60cm intervals if the dpc has not took to the surface this still may be a problem when laying the slim shutter block don't you think?

What are your thoughts about priming the wall top and torch bonding the dpc to the surface ?

Visqueen Zedex high bond supposidly is a good choice for this but seems to be very expensive, other dpc's which can be torch/sweat bonded are Iko Pluvex and Icopal Nubit if anyone has any eperience with these?

http://www.visqueenbuilding.com/datasheet/20?ck=1476003305

Thanks for the advice.
 
It's probably the way I'd do it. Whether it's the best or not........
I assume you're using an architect.
Ask their advice. They charge enough!

Ok thanks.

No Archietect, a selfbuilder can do their own plans for a building upto 170m2 if capable and obviously they would need to pass all the same planning permision regs as if an architect has done them.
 

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