draught proofing sides of garage door
- Thread starter mcrob
- Start date
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Virtually impossible with up and over.
With a standard canopy door fit brush strips such as screwfix code 63359 to both sides. They will close gaps up to 40mm and allow the door to slide past them without catching. You can use a normal rubber strip on the top and bottom such as 29327, or use more brush strips.
If your door is mounted flush with the back of the frame then you should fix the side brushes to the frame. You may need to loosen the screws holding the upper tracks on in order to slide the brush bracket behind it. That will give a much closer fit when the door is closed as it can conform to the shape exactly unlike a form strip. If the door is mounted flush to the front of the frame or in the middle you can use a router to cut slots for it to fit.
I get quite a strong wind blowing directly across my garage door and after doing that I got no noticable draught around the edges and it stopped it making a whistling noise.
If your door is mounted flush with the back of the frame then you should fix the side brushes to the frame. You may need to loosen the screws holding the upper tracks on in order to slide the brush bracket behind it. That will give a much closer fit when the door is closed as it can conform to the shape exactly unlike a form strip. If the door is mounted flush to the front of the frame or in the middle you can use a router to cut slots for it to fit.
I get quite a strong wind blowing directly across my garage door and after doing that I got no noticable draught around the edges and it stopped it making a whistling noise.
yea bought some brush stuff, thought i found the golden product which was advertised as woolpile draught excluder which had this rubber strip running down the middle. i rang up to make sure it had this rubber bit on it and they said yes it does. bought 12 meteres of it then after i receiveved a email a few days later saying it has been dispatched i got another one saying it doesn't have the rubber bit which was advertised.
what i've been thinking of getting is some rubber tape then folding it in half so it makes a v then having a rubber outing on the inside and the outside and then putting the woolpile draught excluder in the middle.
i'm setting up a load of fish tanks in the garage so i need to heat the garage, i've insulated the walls insulated the garage door, i'm going to get some type of carpet or carpet tiles to put down and i've draught proofed the top and bottom of the garage door itst just these bloody sides to do now.
i don't think the brush excluder will be euff on it's own, ideally i would want rubber as the draughts proofing and the brush as insulation. the gaps about 5mm to 10mm.
what i've been thinking of getting is some rubber tape then folding it in half so it makes a v then having a rubber outing on the inside and the outside and then putting the woolpile draught excluder in the middle.
i'm setting up a load of fish tanks in the garage so i need to heat the garage, i've insulated the walls insulated the garage door, i'm going to get some type of carpet or carpet tiles to put down and i've draught proofed the top and bottom of the garage door itst just these bloody sides to do now.
i don't think the brush excluder will be euff on it's own, ideally i would want rubber as the draughts proofing and the brush as insulation. the gaps about 5mm to 10mm.
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heres the rubber tape i was looking at.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amal...es-_-Self Amalgamating Rubber Tape 19mm x 10M
http://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amal...es-_-Self Amalgamating Rubber Tape 19mm x 10M
That s/fix self amalgamating tape is horrible stuff to work with because it is tacky on both sides. It will stick to the door and the frame and prevent you from opening it. It will also stain clothes and attach dust.
The problem with having a hard seal is that it creates friction which can prevent the door from operating. If you have a gap to prevent friction then the draughts will still get through.
Those brushes are quite thick (about 2mm the last time I bought them) and totally seal the gap. It won't be as good as 100mm PIR insulation across it, but I doubt it would be any worse than a rubber strip. You could always fit one at the back of the frame, and cut in two or three more within the frame to give more in contact with the door? Similar to fitting strips in fire doors but in the frame.
A highly compressable material placed inside a thin rubber tube may work (like a bicycle inner tyre) if it could compress enough to not cause the door to stick during operation, but give a good contact when stationery.
As you have a canopy door the top half (or so) will open within the garage and thus you could attach an overhang greater than the frame opening and fit compressable foam to the area that would make contact with the frame when closed. That is how your front door/frame work but in reverse. Quite often the door gear will already include such an overhang to steady/secure the door so you can use that. S/fix code 29498 is great for sealing compression gaps.
Would the door ever be opened from the outside? So long as you have inside access you could create removable baffles and insulate them as much as you want.
The problem with having a hard seal is that it creates friction which can prevent the door from operating. If you have a gap to prevent friction then the draughts will still get through.
Those brushes are quite thick (about 2mm the last time I bought them) and totally seal the gap. It won't be as good as 100mm PIR insulation across it, but I doubt it would be any worse than a rubber strip. You could always fit one at the back of the frame, and cut in two or three more within the frame to give more in contact with the door? Similar to fitting strips in fire doors but in the frame.
A highly compressable material placed inside a thin rubber tube may work (like a bicycle inner tyre) if it could compress enough to not cause the door to stick during operation, but give a good contact when stationery.
As you have a canopy door the top half (or so) will open within the garage and thus you could attach an overhang greater than the frame opening and fit compressable foam to the area that would make contact with the frame when closed. That is how your front door/frame work but in reverse. Quite often the door gear will already include such an overhang to steady/secure the door so you can use that. S/fix code 29498 is great for sealing compression gaps.
Would the door ever be opened from the outside? So long as you have inside access you could create removable baffles and insulate them as much as you want.
didn't realise the tape was sticky on both sides, i was thicking of using rubber tape that is just sticky on one side, so it would be the same concept as you mentioned below
"A highly compressable material placed inside a thin rubber tube may work (like a bicycle inner tyre) if it could compress enough to not cause the door to stick during operation, but give a good contact when stationery.
2mm brush thickness? do you mean 2cm? i could hardly fit a tooth pick in that sized gap lol.
i know what you mean about the removeable baffles and that was my first thought (been thinking about this for months now) but the only way of doing that would be from the outside as in the inside there is the opening slider things blocking halfway of garage door opening, and you can't start stuffing things down there as it has all the rollers and stuff in it (sorry hard to explain)
i think the type of rubber would be important because too grippy and it would hinder opening the door and even rip off and too slippy and it won't seal properly
"A highly compressable material placed inside a thin rubber tube may work (like a bicycle inner tyre) if it could compress enough to not cause the door to stick during operation, but give a good contact when stationery.
2mm brush thickness? do you mean 2cm? i could hardly fit a tooth pick in that sized gap lol.
i know what you mean about the removeable baffles and that was my first thought (been thinking about this for months now) but the only way of doing that would be from the outside as in the inside there is the opening slider things blocking halfway of garage door opening, and you can't start stuffing things down there as it has all the rollers and stuff in it (sorry hard to explain)
i think the type of rubber would be important because too grippy and it would hinder opening the door and even rip off and too slippy and it won't seal properly
It is approx. 2mm thick, and 40mm brush length.
If you did it internally, just bring it away from the wall/frame slightly. As it would be removable it doesn't matter if it would foul the tracks when fitted.
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