Drayton WR1 receiver not firing boiler..

[Treeworks]

A few miscellaneous questions please, all help gratefully received:

Our B Gas RC2 wireless transmitter sends the signal OK to the WR1 digistat, which flashes red and then lights green. However, the boiler does not kick in - does this indicate a fault with the WR1, given the boiler itself works fine in providing hot water. Seems obvious on face of it, but it's quite possible I am missing something.

The boiler's hot water out pipe splits into 3 pipes for CH, HW and u/f heating, each with a motorised valve. Am I right that if the WR1 did signal the boiler to kick in, the boiler would then signal the CH valve to open (I doubt the WR1 is wired to open the valve)?

Is it OK to manually move the handle on the valve to get the hot water to flow to CH? I don't want to break it!

We have a Vaillant eco plus 630 system boiler - I've noticed the tap symbol remains on constantly even when diplay not illuminated (manual states this indicates it is heating cylinder when illuminated and that there is hot water demand when flashing). Is that a sign of a problem?

The boiler allows CH and HW temperatures to be separately set - how does this work given there is only one Hot water out pipe - my guess is it must operate at higher of the 2 temperatures when there is both CH and HW demand.

Finally, what are suitable ranges for CH and HW temeratures please.

Many thanks

 

[Treeworks]

The radiators came on this morning, so I think the WR1 digistat must have some fault which fires the signal to boiler in some circumstances and not in others.

 

[picasso]

your stat should open the ch 2 port valve which in turn fires the boiler, ignore the dial on the front of the boiler that has the tap on it, its not used unless you have a vaillant cylinder/sensor connected to it,set the flow temp to 70, the hot water cylinder has a stat to control the temp of the dhw and should be set at 60, I would guess you have a faulty 2 port valve as the other valves are working ok (your ufh and hot water are ok?)

 

[Treeworks]

Thanks Picasso,

I will get someone in soon to fix, but first want to make sure I have some general idea of what is going on.

Is it possible the stat is faulty and just sending signal erratically to ch 2 port valve? I've noticed that when the boiler is supplying hot water, the radiator pipe below the valve remains cold (despite stat having green light), indicating valve has not opened. However valve did open this morning and boiler is supplying radiator (whilst hot water timer turned off).

Hot water + u/f seem to work fine.

We do actually have a Vaillant cylinder but not sure if we have a sensor.

Sorry, I don't know where the vaillant cylinder stat is (I thought the boiler's stat controlled this?)

 

[picasso]

yes it could be the stat or the valve, its fairly straight forward to find out which one is playing up, the stat for the cylinder is under the white cover on the side of the cylinder, I wouldent touch it as it should have been set by the installer, you wont have a sensor so the dial with the tap isint doing any thing.

 

[Treeworks]

Thanks again, just one last question if I may, is it OK to manually turn the handle on the motorised valve - I'm guessing yes, as that's why the handles are there, but maybe the system has to be in a certain state to safely do this?

 

[picasso]

yes you can open the valve using the lever but if you use the hook to keep it open the end switches in the valve wont switch the boiler on.

 

[Agile]

yes it could be the stat or the valve, its fairly straight forward to find out which one is playing up, the stat for the cylinder is under the white cover on the side of the cylinder, I wouldent touch it as it should have been set by the installer, you wont have a sensor so the dial with the tap isint doing any thing.

Why do you think there is no sensor?

I thought the whole point of choosing the Vaillant cylinder was to gain the extra efficiency from using the sensor to keep it condensing more?

There is obviously a fault but I am keeping an open mind as to what that may be.

Tony

 

[picasso]

as far as I know the vr10 sensor can only be used with the vr65 wiring centre which can only do 2 zones (the op has 3 so isint using a vr65) if the sensor can be wired directly to the boiler (when using zone valves)can you give me a link as I would be interested.

 

[Treeworks]

"its fairly straight forward to find out which one is playing up"

Picasso, sorry, only noticed this comment just now - please could you point me in the right direction to determine which one; bearing in mind system seems to all work for a period and then not

 

[picasso]

Hi treeworks I should have said fairly straight forward if you know what your doing if your confident using a multimeter look for 230vac on the brown wire of the ch 2 port valve, if the stat operates ie green light and no 230 on brown, stat at fault, if the stat operates and you have 230 on brown and the valve does not move, faulty valve,

if the fault is intermittant you will have to wait till it stops working.

 

[Treeworks]

Thanks Picasso, you have been very helpful.

I definetely do not know what I am doing (!) and so will call in a professional once the system stops working again