Drilling a hole in a radiator supply pipe??

irrelevean, isn't it

The pcb is going through its sequence, it thinks it should be firing up, the fan's coming on

So it's not the lockout or you would have no fan

do you get the click click click of the ignition trying to ignite the pilot ?
 
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dylanF said:
I turned the boiler off at an isolator switch next to the timer programable thingy.

That sounds OK. How long was this after the flood started, and has the boiler fired at any time since then?
 
Once the air pressure switch is activated by the fan, there should be a clicking at about one a second of the spark trying to ignite the gas in the pilot

nothing to do with turning the gauge

is this happening ?
 
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Iturned the boiler off within a few minutes of the appearance of water. It the took me 24 hours to get the radiator fixed and the system filled up .

The boiler has not lit since then
 
so you don't in fact have the fan coming on

it sounds like the overheat stat is prolly open circuit

Do yoiu have a meter ?

Take the two white wires from the pcb off and measurethe resistance across the connectors where they should go - it should be a short circuit

And measure the AC voltage between the live and neutral where they come into the pcb - should be mains there
 
The fan at the top of the boiler does come on.


Thanks I'll have to check that tomorrow. I'll let U know..

:confused:
 
just to check:

dylanF said:
When I turn the boiler on the fan starts.
When I set the gage it clicks and sounds like it should be firing up but there is just no flame.

That right?
 
You're confusing me now

OK, if the fan IS working, then you qare getting mains to the pcb and the OH stat is OK

so, are you getting the clicking of the spark ?
 
Just checked again turning the dial on the front gets the fan to start, the boiler clicks once as the fan starts but doesn't spark.

Is there someway I can kick start the thing to release gas and light it manually?
 
then either
the fan isn't creating enough pressure
the air pressure switch is knacked
the pcb is defectice
you have a blockage (e.g. in the through connector in the casing or air pipe)
or
something is interfering with the integrity of the boiler - it isn't developing the pressure differential to activate the air pressure switch


nothing to do with the water
and, no, you can't start it manually
 
Right I'm going to have to call it a night, thanks for all the advice I will consider it all and will Be back tomorrow with some more detailed description thanks

Dylan
 
Appears you have a Netaheat Profile 40e (the early profiles also had Netaheat on the front).

The gauge you refer to is the boiler thermostat - it will click as you turn it from off to the required temperature setting.

Are you sure you hav'nt removed the lower plastic cover or lowered the panel on the right hand side. This may have dislodged one of the two air pressure tubes.
 

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