Dry Line Single brick wall.

[denwyn]

We have a conservatory built onto the kitchen on our house,it was there when we moved in, now its not the best build and consists of a single skin lower brick wall, with pvc windows and a felt roof, the pvc windows and roof are fine, the brickwork is plastered inside and we had it rendered ouside to smarten it up. In the very cold weather the condensation is a problem,we bought a de humidifier which has helped a great deal,but on the brickwork it' s still a slight problem with black mould patches showing. If i was to dry line this wall, studding it over,putting insulation inbetween and covering with plasterboard, and capping off with a PVC windowsill, would this eliminate it showing again, should i treat the single skin wall with anti damp paint before covering it. Its not a huge problem but gets me loads of earache from her indoors. Any help or advice appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The walls with mould spores, should be washed down with diluted bleach to kill the spores.
You could batten out and insulated or install thermaline boards. If you batten out don't forget a vapour check barrier will be needed or use duplex/foil backed boards

 

[denwyn]

The walls with mould spores, should be washed down with diluted bleach to kill the spores.
You could batten out and insulated or install thermaline boards. If you batten out don't forget a vapour check barrier will be needed or use duplex/foil backed boards

I will use the pasterboards with the foil backing as i can get it in sizes from Wicks which fit in my car, is it ok to use roll lagging as the insulation,its a lot cheaper than the large sheets of insulation board,its not a big area i'm doing, about 85cm high by a total of 5mt in length. After washing down the wall with diluted bleach, should i treat the wall with anti mould paint before covering it,the mould is not a huge ammount and its just really a slight visual problem for her indoors.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

is it ok to use roll lagging as the insulation,its a lot cheaper than the large sheets of insulation board,

Yes they will do

After washing down the wall with diluted bleach, should i treat the wall with anti mould paint before covering it,the mould is not a huge ammount and its just really a slight visual problem for her indoors.

It's up to you, I would not think it would make that much difference.
The thing is to prevent it from happening, which is what you are going to do by insulating and vapour check.
Mould spore can grow quick quickly and start to cover large areas, if left to grow.

 

[noseall]

Despite your best intentions, unless you improve the wall considerably then you may be disappointed with the results.

For example, to satisfy building reg's you would need about 270mm of fibreglass type insulation in order to guarantee success.

I'm not saying you need to do this but adding a token bit of fibreglass isn't likely to relieve you of the black-spot mould problem.

Similar with any vapour check.

Unless you have adequate protection from the cold then water will condense on the surface of vapour check boards and your back to black spot mould again.

You are better off fixing thick celotex backed plasterboards with foil laminate.

 

[noseall]

Is there a door betwixt the connie and the kitchen?

Is there an extractor in the kitchen.

Are there any vents in the connie i.e. trickle vents in the window heads?

 

[denwyn]

Is there a door betwixt the connie and the kitchen?

Is there an extractor in the kitchen.

Are there any vents in the connie i.e. trickle vents in the window heads?

There is no door between kitchen and conservatory at all, extractor fan above hob, always used,no trickle vents at all. Dehumidifier has hepled a great deal,but very small damp spots,and slight mould on the single brick walls below upvc windows in very cold ( frosty ) weather. Had hoped a insulated stud wall my stop the problem.

 

[mointainwalker]

I'm not saying you need to do this but adding a token bit of fibreglass isn't likely to relieve you of the black-spot mould problem.

Have to say I don't really agree with Mr Nose here. As far as I can read, the thickness of insulation has not been discussed but , compared to an uninsulated wall, just putting in (say ) 50 mm, makes a dramatic improvement to the U value.

I would not use fibre-wool as I reckon it needs to be separated from the wall by a clear space to prevent wicking-up moisture. It's not a huge space you are doing , so I would say use expanded polystyrene.

 

[denwyn]

I'm not saying you need to do this but adding a token bit of fibreglass isn't likely to relieve you of the black-spot mould problem.

Have to say I don't really agree with Mr Nose here. As far as I can read, the thickness of insulation has not been discussed but , compared to an uninsulated wall, just putting in (say ) 50 mm, makes a dramatic improvement to the U value.

I would not use fibre-wool as I reckon it needs to be separated from the wall by a clear space to prevent wicking-up moisture. It's not a huge space you are doing , so I would say use expanded polystyrene.

I think i am going to go ahead and do this now,i plan to batten off the walls with 3x2,place insulation batts between studs an plasterboard. Should i place a vapour barrier over the wall before i studd it out, or do i do that over the studs before i plasterboard it. At the moment i am not sure what insulation i will be using,depends on what Wicks or B&Q have in stock. Thanks to all for the advice.

 

[mointainwalker]

a vapour barrier over the studs before i plasterboard it.

That.

I really wouldn't advise you put fibre-wool straight against the wall, no matter how cheap it is.

 

[denwyn]

a vapour barrier over the studs before i plasterboard it.

That.

I really wouldn't advise you put fibre-wool straight against the wall, no matter how cheap it is.

Sorry if i'm asking such stupid questions,but i don't really want to have to do this again. So is it ok to put vapour barrier on wall first and insulation batts over in between the studding,then plasterboard.

 

[noseall]

Have to say I don't really agree with Mr Nose here. As far as I can read, the thickness of insulation has not been discussed but , compared to an uninsulated wall, just putting in (say ) 50 mm, makes a dramatic improvement to the U value.

We are talking about a single skin (half brick) wall that is subjected to a lot of humidity from an open kitchen. A poorly insualted wall will still fail regardless of a vcl if we experience temp's like last winter.

There is no door between kitchen and conservatory at all,

I'm surprised there isn't water dripping like a tap from the glazing and the roof.

Bonkers.

 

[denwyn]

Have to say I don't really agree with Mr Nose here. As far as I can read, the thickness of insulation has not been discussed but , compared to an uninsulated wall, just putting in (say ) 50 mm, makes a dramatic improvement to the U value.

We are talking about a single skin (half brick) wall that is subjected to a lot of humidity from an open kitchen. A poorly insualted wall will still fail regardless of a vcl if we experience temp's like last winter.

There is no door between kitchen and conservatory at all,

I'm surprised there isn't water dripping like a tap from the glazing and the roof.

Bonkers.

It does poor off the windows on occasions,but since we bought a dehumidifier its not a real problem, ceiling is plasterboard, and has never shown any problems at all.
Lots of different opinions in the answers on here, not 100% sure which way to go now, i will have to try something though.

 

[Deluks]

It would be wise to reinstate the door between house and conservatory, unless you do this you will struggle to control your problem, plus your heating bills must be higher than average. Failing that you will need to include more ventilation into the conny as well as heating it. Just doing the dwarf walls when you've got all that 'lossy' glass in there won't do a great deal.

 

[denwyn]

It would be wise to reinstate the door between house and conservatory, unless you do this you will struggle to control your problem, plus your heating bills must be higher than average. Failing that you will need to include more ventilation into the conny as well as heating it. Just doing the dwarf walls when you've got all that 'lossy' glass in there won't do a great deal.

Its a huge job to reinstate a wall and door between kitchen and conservatory,apart from that even if i were to do it the kitchen would then have no window at all,plus we only intend to stay her for at the very most 3 years. Heating bills are ok, no higher than normal, two high output radiators fitted,one in kitchen and one in conservatory.