Electric shower replacement: fixing to wall question?

[jamesrobinson1000]

Hello everyone. I have a few questions if anyone could please help me to answer:

I am replacing our electric shower (tritan ivory) with a new electric shower as it is not working, i suspect the element has burned out as the water runs just cold all the time and the pressure switch seems to be operating.

The shower is secured to a stud type wall, over our bath. It has a 15mm copper pipe rear entry straight into it horizontally. The new shower I have has different fixing holes, so I will have to use new fixings, but what type is best for this please? I am not sure exactly how deep the wall is and there is no access to behind it.

Also will it be fiddly connecting the pipe to the new unit?!

I am going to close off the power at the fuse box before starting work, close off the stopcock and drain water at the kitchen sink (lowest level).

Thank you all for your help

Best Wishes

James

 

[seco services]

take it that its tiled where the shower is then the raw plugs that come with it will be ok.

your ivory shower sounds like you have a faulty outlet tco.

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

Hi seco services, yes the wall is tiled but it's not a solid wall, and i think the original shower was installed using a toggle clip type fitting possibly? will normal raw plugs be strong enough to hold it up??

what do you mean by a faulty outlet tco? Is this to do with the element?

Thanks for your help btw, I really appreciate it.

 

[seco services]

the rawplugs that come with it will hold if your going through tiles aswell.

the tco is a thermal cutout that if not working will cut the power to the heating elements.
so your shower will only give cold water.

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

thanks for your help seco services. so is there anyway i can test for a faulty tco? can that be replaced on its own? why would the tco go? is there a reason why it has?

i bought some toggle clips today from B & Q to use but guess i can take them back then. It is just that the screws and plus with the unit seemed a bit long for the unit and a thin stud wall, but then again didn't look too strong!...?

 

[seco services]

you can do a continuity test on the tco. with power to shower isolated.
should have continuity.

or switch the shower on and test for power bothsides.

on the bottom tco is any of the wires or connectors blackened ?
yes can be replaced under £20.

never had a shower fall or come loose yet.

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

Thanks seco services, I have already bought a new shower so will replace it tomorrow morning whilst off all day

Thre doesn't seem to be any blackened marks... could the elment just have failed/burned out as i first suggested?

As the original was a horizontal rear entry, is it fiddly to get te pipe into the new shower unit? would you suggest drilling and fitting the 1st (top) fixing 1st or lining up the pipe 1st? any advice? i've never replaced an electric shower before, although am confident in doing so, it's just the fiddlyness it may have!!

Thanks for your help. I reespect your advice.

 

[seco services]

Thre doesn't seem to be any blackened marks... could the elment just have failed/burned out as i first suggested?

one could of but not both elements burntout.
if one fails you still get luke warm water.

As the original was a horizontal rear entry, is it fiddly to get te pipe into the new shower unit? would you suggest drilling and fitting the 1st (top) fixing 1st or lining up the pipe 1st? any advice? i've never replaced an electric shower before, although am confident in doing so, it's just the fiddlyness it may have!!

Thanks for your help. I reespect your advice.

i would line up your pipe.
screw it on loose then mark your screw holes.
remove shower drill holes then refit shower and connect pipe.

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

thanks for your help again i will line up pipe 1st. what do you mean screw it on loose then mark the screw holes? what do i screw it onto 1st?... should i line up pipe, mark holes through unit, then remove drill and plug and reift??

 

[seco services]

useally the pipe will connect by a nut/olive or coupler.
make sure the coupler or your nut screws on loose while holding shower against wall.
its only got to be 1mm out with the pipe in the wall if its a secured pipe and you'll end up cross threading it.

if all lines up mark holes while holding shower.
drill the holes, plug, then fit shower.

can be a good idea to use making tape on the tiles and a good small pilot drill first to break the glaze on the tile.

if you go straight in with a large drill its bound to slip across the tiles.

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

Thanks again, I understand now. Will do my best

I will put the pipe in and the brass nut that goes onto a plastic fitting built into the shower i will do finger tight and line up. then mark the 2 holes.

do you reckon the pipe coming in will be ok or will need to be cut back a bit possible due to it being a different shower??

 

[seco services]

9/10 times the pipework needs altering on two different electric showers.
i never had one that easy.
and make sure the cable reaches.

what shower are you fitting ?

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

its a creda. got it from B & Q.

So i'll have to lengthen or cut the pipe to it? might be tricky cutting a small piece off as its so close to the wall!!

what if the cable is too short??

 

[seco services]

you couldn't of picked a worse shower.

creda what model ? what kw ?

if cable to short your in the dog house.
new cable.

your old triton ivory what ? ivory 1, 2, or 3 ?

 

[jamesrobinson1000]

sorry i meant triton T80. so oit says in the mfr insturctions booklet (looks quite old). the ivory is in my sisters flat.

why is creda the worst make???!!
it's a CREDA Aqua 9.5 e btw if that helps?