External sockets

[amfisted]

Hi All

Just a question about external sockets.

I've got an old fashioned metal socket on my outside wall; the type with a round body and a metal screw cap which is attached by a chain. I want to replace it with a modern, single socket for the occasional use of garden mower and power tools; it won't be permanently in use. I also want to be able to isolate it on the inside to prevent abuse of my electricity supply by any passing toerags.

The current socket is spurred directly through the wall from a double socket on my downstairs ring main; I have a modern consumer unit which was fitted in 2010 and has 30mA RCD protection, therefore I think I'm right in believing that I don't need any further protection for the outside socket.

As I see it, I need a weatherproof outside socket to IP66, a switched control unit and some cable. I'm not sure whether this work is still notifiable, but if so then obviously I'll get a spark to do it.

In any case, I'd be interested to know whether there's anything I haven't thought of, because I'm the kind of person who likes to know how to do stuff even when I'm not allowed to do it.

Cheers.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The above work suggested will not require notification to building controls.
Having a two pole isolator fitted internally is a wise move, not just as prevention against misuse, but also if the socket and cable to it does become faulty, this can easily be disconnected from your ring circuit and RCD unit, therefore preventing any inconvenience of power loss, to that circuit and other circuits protected by the RCD.
Be aware of the permitted routes of buried cable.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls
This work would be deemed minor works and would be wise to have it inspected and tested in compliance to this.

 

[amfisted]

Thanks indeed, especially as my next question was likely to be about the routing of the cables. :0)

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Thanks indeed, especially as my next question was likely to be about the routing of the cables. :0)

If the cable is to routed externally and not directly in to the external socket, therefore exposed. This cable must be suitable for the external environment and prevention given against mechanical damage.
Ideally the cable would enter directly in to external socket from internal route, but this is not always possible.

 

[westie101]

I would suggest you fit the FCU next to the double socket that it is already fed from and simply replace the cable on the same route to the new socket which I assume will be situated where the existing one is!

 

[JohnW2]

I would suggest you fit the FCU next to the double socket that it is already fed from and simply replace the cable on the same route to the new socket which I assume will be situated where the existing one is!

I'm not sure that the OP necessarily intends to use an FCU (he mentioned a 'switched control unit' to prevent his electricity being stolen) - he doesn't necessarily need a fuse if the spur is only supplying the one socket. However, what you say would apply equally to a DP switch, if that's what he intends to use.

Kind Regards, John

 

[amfisted]

Thanks again, all. To clarify, I intend to use a fused switched socket, as including a fuse can't do any harm and might even do some good.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Fused switch socket, have you got a link to this accessory.

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks again, all. To clarify, I intend to use a fused switched socket, as including a fuse can't do any harm and might even do some good.

I presume you mean a fused switched connection unit ('FCU').

As you say, the additional fuse "can't do any harm", but nor is it really necessary if the spur is only supplying one socket - there will be a fuse in any plug you plug into the new socket (and a significant risk that if that ever blows, so will the one in the FCU).

Kind Regards, John

 

[riveralt]

Thanks again, all. To clarify, I intend to use a fused switched socket, as including a fuse can't do any harm and might even do some good.

I don't think they make fused switch sockets - I assume you mean a single gang fused connection unit (or fused spur).
If you are replacing your existing internal double with the FCU then it is just a matter of replacing the double gang back box with a single and hope that the existing cables meet.
I must admit that Westie's excellent proposal allows you control of the outside socket whilst retaining the internal double.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It could possible be done using grid modules. But I suspect the OP either believes there is such an accessory or they do intend to use a switched fuse connection unit.

 

[amfisted]

Apologies for any lack of clarity: when I said "fused switched socket", I of course meant "fused, switched control unit". Oh, the vagaries of language!

What I intend to do is to leave the existing double socket in place, take a spur from it to an FCU (one which has a switch so I can turn it on and off) and then out through the wall to my new external socket.

Which (edit)is, I think what Westie was also suggesting.

Thanks.

 

[JohnW2]

Apologies for any lack of clarity: when I said "fused switched socket", I of course meant "fused, switched control unit". Oh, the vagaries of language! What I intend to do is to leave the existing double socket in place, take a spur from it to an FCU (one which has a switch so I can turn it on and off) and then out through the wall to my new external socket. Which (edit)is, I think what Westie was also suggesting.

Indeed so. As I said, you can put either an switched FCU (fused connection unit) or a double pole switch in the postition westie suggested.

Kind Regards, John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Your plan seems ideal for what you require.
When making the hole for cable through wall, pilot the hole first with a slight downward slope towards the outside, this will help prevent water tracking back.
Once the hole is piloted you can then increase the hole size so suitable for cable, so it can be feed through without damaging it, (could consider routing cable within conduit through wall) When enlarging hole, I would then drill from both sides, this will reduce any damage to the walls.
The cable entry and exit holes can then be sealed using suitable silicon.
Prior to drilling though, do some investigation on the area you are working, it could be that cables and pipework are routed in that location.

 

[JohnW2]

When making the hole for cable through wall, pilot the hole first with a slight downward slope ...

I think the hole is already there ...

The current socket is spurred directly through the wall from a double socket on my downstairs ring main...

Kind Regards, John