Fitting a full width Universal Column

[billm]

My Struct Engineer has spec'd a 5900mm long 203 x 203 x 60 UC running widthways across my extension. I am concerned that because of it's weight, 360 Kg+ it's going to be difficult to manoeuvre from the front to the back of the house. I'm anticipating using a Genie lift once it needs lifting up into position but even then as its a full width beam sitting on the inner leaf blockwork I'm not sure how I can get it behind the Acrows (other than lopsided) so I can lift it up the wall into position.

One option suggested was to have a Plate joint in it. The Supplier described this as 2 end plates welded on in the middle which can then be bolted together when in position. As it only adds another £80 to the cost it might be worth it for ease of moving and installing the beams.

However I assume that the end plates will protrude further down than 203 mm? The beam will be encased in a downstand but I don't want it even deeper if it has 2 big plates in the middle of it. So it might not be an option afterall.

If I can get enough men to help shift it, or borrow some steel rollers to trundle it to the back of the house to get over the manhandling issue, any suggestions how to install a full width beam cavity to cavity when there is no side access due to the proximity of neighbouring property ?

Can a Genie lift help to lift it up at an angle while it's behind the Acrows ?

 

[tony1851]

Welded end plates would not be a suitable method for this situation. They would have to be 'extended end plates' which would protrude considerably above and below the beam to develope the necessary resistance-moment.

A safer alternative would be to have a traditional splice made, with top and bottom flange plates and 1 or 2 web plates. This would take up about 50 mm max underneath the beam.

Other than that, you will need to devise a way of lifting in one piece.

 

[noseall]

Untitled

• noseall
• 15 May 2015
• 1

Untitled

• noseall
• 15 May 2015
• 1

 

[^woody^]

Sometimes, it's easier to demolish the wall under the bearings and lift the beam up directly under the wall, prop it and the rebuild the wall and bearings.

 

[cjard]

Can you get a mini digger (like a kubota 360, around 1.5 to 3 tons) down the side of the house? It will prove a very handy device for dragging and lifting your beam, well worth a days hire

 

[billm]

Can you get a mini digger (like a kubota 360, around 1.5 to 3 tons) down the side of the house? It will prove a very handy device for dragging and lifting your beam, well worth a days hire

That is an excellent idea and yes very do-able. Thanks for suggesting it

 

[angelboy]

What was the cost of each beam out of interest?

 

[noseall]

Can you get a mini digger (like a kubota 360, around 1.5 to 3 tons) down the side of the house? It will prove a very handy device for dragging and lifting your beam, well worth a days hire

My guess is only a three tonner will get close to be able to lift the beam because you will need the arm to be out stretched in order to get the height. This means that the 360 kg's will be a fair distance from the machine.
I wouldn't get too excited if I were you.

However it will drag the beam easily, but you will still need to lift it.

 

[cjard]

Having successfully lifted a Ford Fiesta onto the back of a transit tipper using a 1.5 ton machine I don't think it'd struggle too much. Lifting one end at once would also reduce the amount the machine had to lift if it was only possible to get a baby one

Consider also removing the bucket, as that can be quite a weight saving. Having some holes drilled in the web will provide lifting points to which a chain can be bolted, and I'd also recommend fixing the chain to the digger in a way that it cannot come off. Lift with the digger facing forward and the scraper blade resting on the floor or on load spreaders if the ground is soft, to reduce the risk of tipping and be mindful of he actions you will take if the machine does start to tip, before it does so (considering a plan of action in advance reduces the risk of selecting a wrong action in a panic situation)

I do agree with the recommendation to get the bigger one if you can; they're usually a lot easier to drive and don't bounce around so much. See if you can arrange some other jobs for it while it's there

 

[noseall]

A three tonner will lift the beam all day and then some. I wouldn't be happy though slewing a 360kg beam around with arm fully outstretched.

However, in order to maximise the height lifting potential, you will need to have the machine at full stretch. Bear in mind the digger is likely to be sat outside and lower than the beam bearings. The beam will also be slung from the machine arm and dangling down, plus you have the depth of the beam itself.

I think it is a good idea, but it needs careful planning. Lifting with a digger arm is different to lifting with a crane. The digger will lift in an arc unless you crank the arm in as you lift. Cranking the arm in means pulling the beam closer to the machine. Similarly, If you managed to sit the beam on trestles and tried to lift the beam from beneath, you would need to be a skilled driver in order to lift the beam in a vertical plane.

Ideally you would be better off having the beam lifted by the digger to the desired height plus a few inches. Then be able to drive the digger (and beam) into position. Just be sure that the ground around the tracks is in good nick. It will also mean lifting the dozer blade.

 

[billm]

In case it's useful for anyone else doing this, we lifted the beam in position just using manpower.

We set up scaffolds on both outside corners of the extension and using 9 men we gradually lifted it up end-by-end till it was near the top then lifted it over the wall and into position resting it on padstones to spread the load over the blockwork.

The 6m 203*203*60 UC beam, about 8" x 8", with the welded plate on top weighed in at 410 Kg. We might have managed it with 8 men but definitely no fewer.

Hope this helps if you ever need to do the same.