Fixings for new fence

[jamiesmack]

Hi all,

I am attempting to build a new fence, and have what is probably a very stupid question.

I have the 100mm posts concreted in, and i want to run 100mm wide timbers between them, and then add vertical boards to these cross timbers.

what is the best way to fix the cross timbers to the posts? is it just a case of screwing through from the post into the end of the timbers? if so, what screw would be needed? 150mm?

Any other tips very much welcome!

 

[HERTS P&D]

Are these concrete slotted post?

Andy

 

[jamiesmack]

Apologies, my poorly worded question.

they are timber 100mm x 100mm posts

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Strongest will be galvanised threaded rod, with a nut and washer at each side, 100mm long hole drilled through each timber thickness. You might be able to get away with a tenon joint bolted, with shorter bolts.

 

[foxhole]

You would normally use arris rails and the appropriate brackets.
https://www.toolstation.com/arris-r...vaBrC-EZE-kXAoQ-oc4aAmMHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

is this what you are aiming for?

https://images.app.goo.gl/qP1K46NV5CGsjMJ46

 

[jamiesmack]

Similar, but with vertical boards either side, to allow for bigger gaps between the boards as it’s in quite a windy spot

 

[JohnD]

I use the studding method. It is much cheaper than large coach screws, and easy to assemble or repair.

If you are in a windy area, it is an advantage to use long horizontal rails near the top, that can span three posts, this gives each post some support from its neighbours in strong gusts.

In a coastal area, I have found galvanised studding rusts through and breaks, so I now use stainless. You can buy it cut to size on fleabay.

Include a sacrificial gravel board or the bottoms of your verticals will rot.

Remember to provide hedgehog gaps.

 

[jamiesmack]

Thank you for the reply. Please excuse my ignorance, what do you mean by the studding method?

 

[foxhole]

Similar, but with vertical boards either side, to allow for bigger gaps between the boards as it’s in quite a windy spot

Hit and miss fencing , slows wind but does not present a solid surface to blow down.

 

[JohnD]

Thank you for the reply. Please excuse my ignorance, what do you mean by the studding method?

this stuff



steel bar, threaded all the way along, zinc plated for short-term rust prevention, called studding or all-threads. What @Harry Bloomfield calls galvanised threaded rod.

Widely used e.g. for hanging suspended ceilings, or anywhere you want to fix something with a nut and unusually long bolt, especially for large sizes of timber if you are not good at joints.

It's quite cheap, usually sold in lengths between 1m and 5m, in numerous sizes.

I happened to have some 4-metre lengths of M8 (meaning 8mm diameter) in the shed, handy for lots of things

you can buy it in cut lengths on ebay for a modest premium, it is a bit tedious to cut it yourself unless you have an angle grinder.

So I used lots of 150mm lengths, with a washer and a nut on each end, to fix wooden fenceposts to concrete spurs, and assembling my shed, and it's much cheaper than buying bolts or screws in such a large size, and it can be any length you want.

 

[JohnD]

compared to a large size of coach bolt, M8, 150mm, or a coach screw, it is a lot cheaper

 

[jamiesmack]

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• jamiesmack
• 13 Aug 2021

I’m not sure I have explained myself properly, or if I have I don’t have enough knowledge to work it out haha.

As I will be putting the cross timbers between the posts, I can’t use the bar can I? As I could only bolt one end? Would I not have to screw this

 

[JohnD]

Ah, on mine the beams are bolted to the face of the posts.

Screwing into end grain as you show is very weak.

 

[jamiesmack]

Ah I see. I only have this 4 x 2 available for the cross timbers really. Is there anything I can do to make it stronger?

 

[foxhole]

Halving joint thru posts.