My original idea was to glue my new solid oak flooring down to the concrete subfloor as my previous post, however as no-one has been able to reply to that post //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=165167 I thought I would post again.
Having now read through many posts on laying solid wood flooring over a concrete floor with a bitumen residue left on it, it would seem that the only way to do this with guaranteed results is to hire a concrete planer to plane the floor (to remove the bitumen) then re-screed with a layer of 3mm floor levelling compound, then install a pour on DPM then glue down your boards to that. This all seems like a lot of work that will create a lot of mess and ultimately cost a lot of money.
However, I have also read a lot of posts that suggest laying a new oak floor fully floating, by just laying down a underlay that incorporates a DPM and then gluing the boards together with a PVCA wood glue all 4 sides of the T & G.
I have never heard of this method before, in the past I have only ever used the stick the boards to the subfloor method, this way you know the boards are stuck down firmly and are not going to move.
My question is has anyone had any problems using the fully floating method, can or do the boards warp or cup or move as they are not stuck to anything but each other.
I am hoping woodlikeyou will be around to comment as I believe they advocate this floating method
Having now read through many posts on laying solid wood flooring over a concrete floor with a bitumen residue left on it, it would seem that the only way to do this with guaranteed results is to hire a concrete planer to plane the floor (to remove the bitumen) then re-screed with a layer of 3mm floor levelling compound, then install a pour on DPM then glue down your boards to that. This all seems like a lot of work that will create a lot of mess and ultimately cost a lot of money.
However, I have also read a lot of posts that suggest laying a new oak floor fully floating, by just laying down a underlay that incorporates a DPM and then gluing the boards together with a PVCA wood glue all 4 sides of the T & G.
I have never heard of this method before, in the past I have only ever used the stick the boards to the subfloor method, this way you know the boards are stuck down firmly and are not going to move.
My question is has anyone had any problems using the fully floating method, can or do the boards warp or cup or move as they are not stuck to anything but each other.
I am hoping woodlikeyou will be around to comment as I believe they advocate this floating method