Floorboards vs Chipboard

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Modern houses use chipboard instead of the floorboards of years gone by, i appreciate it is cheaper and easier to lay. But, what are the pros and cons of each (apart from aesthetics)?

e.g, how long does chipboard last, what are the defects associated with its use, does it provide a better floor than solid pine floorboards? What are the benefits of floorboards? What are the cons? e.g distortion etc

cheers
 
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with chip board after a while the tongue/groove gives out.and to carry out a repair is virtually a no go.
its designed to joining floating over the joists,when i have to fit it i try my hardest to make sure the joints are on a joist or bearer.
and as above post,if to much water gets into it,it expands,so if you have to use make sure you use the green moisture resistant 1.
 
CHIPBOARD.

PROS. quick to lay, cover a large area quickly.
CONS. get it wet and it fall apart, if you need access under a chipboard floor eg, plumbing leak, or wiring, then you have to remove a whole sheet which can be very difficult or even a small section will be hard as you will have to make good with batterns underneath. If the boards become loose (which they will do, you then have to re-screw the board down again) Will need two people as large sheets are awkward to carry and lay.

FLOORBOARDS
PROS. Easy access to joists by removing one board at a time for plumbing and electrical work. Easy to replace one board if need be. Doesn't mind a bit of water from a leaking radiator. Easy to handle, light to carry and will fit in the car easy. Can be stained (if you like that sort of thing) More solid floor that chipboard. Easy for one person to do
CONS. Will cost more. Longer to lay.

I would go for floor boards every time.

Hope that helps :LOL:

Andy


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Chip (crap) board is not much use for anything let alone as a flooring base. It’s cheap & nasty stuff & will be creaking & groaning when you walk on it in just a couple of years; it’s almost impossible to lift for any under floor work without destroying it’s integrity, usually requiring additional support noggins when replaced; the standard stuff will disintegrate at the slightest hit of damp & mice love it for nest making.

To my astonishment, I once watched a washing machine partially disappear into the void below the suspended ground floor we had in our first new property; vibration & damp from a very small leak had caused the rear feet to slowly eat their way through the chipboard over a 3 year period to the point where it just collapsed.
 
Chipboard gets a bad press but people don't help themselves. I regularly see people using 18mm standard P4 boards, not glueing the joints and then using the wrong screws - and even using nails which is ridiculous.

My advice is always use 22mm P5 moisture resistant board - and even better we have recently started using Weatherdeck which is a lot denser than ordinary and has higher moisture resistance still. The boards should be glued together at joints and glued to the joists. The nails should be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board. If the joists are the correct size you should not get problems with this spec.

If you do go for boards, then beware that modern softwood is not like the old stuff. It is much softer, twists and warps and will be probably be covered in Knots. The last floorboarded floor I saw a few years ago when the central heating got to it the knots fell out and left the floor covered in holes some of which were 25mm or so. To avoid this you will need to order select timber and it will need to be aclimatised and laid very carefully. Good luck with that.
 
I refuse to use chipboard.

Pine t&g floorboards every time, where applicable.

Very occasionally we will float a chipboard floor over celotex in a converted garage when no other option (i.e. lack of make-up depth) is available.

Chipboard is a maintenance nightmare.
 
Hi

Just to bump this up

Does anyone know the cost differential between chipboard and floorboards?

Lets say you have a room 4m by 4m.

I potentially have to reboard my first floor (no walls) - whilst I cans ee that chipboard will be quicker it will only be amrginally quicker as the entire floor is empty so the installer can work unhindered - just a bit more time gettign the boards into position and screwing in.
 
Good quality european softwood plywood.

All the advantages of floorboards, none of the weaknesses of chipboard, and somewhere in the middle cost wise (then you have labour savings).
 
I'm watching this thread with interest. Having had an extension built 2 years ago I can firmly say I'm so disappointed with the "finish" of the chipboard floor that I am going to get the carpet rolled back and replace the whole lot with proper wooden floorboards. The bad news is I have internal walls built over the chipboard with cable and pipes going through, so I'll have my work cut-out (no pun intended) to rip it all out.

Nozzle
 
The chippie who I had round was very anti chipboard and pro tongue and groove. He wasn't too positive or negative about plywood sheets but seemed to just go on the basis that tongue and groove was the best.
 
£500 cost difference between the 2.

I think my floor area is roughly 50sqm
 
Is that material cost or labour as well (floorboards would take longer to fit).

What about using spruce plywood, stronger than chipboard, Euro spruce will have moisture resistant glue-lines, and takes no longer to fit than chipboard.

I say there is no right answer, just preferences.
 
It is for supply and fit.

I am having a large job done on the joists and need a new floor - the 2 prices I have been given - 1 for chipboard and 1 for floorboards there is a 500ish overall difference.

I spose you could argue it might take an extra day so maybe 150-200 is labour cost in fitting and 300 is materials.
 

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