Freestanding Oven replacement.

[byronsmith]

Hi all,

I have a old freestanding electric double over with hob that I was hoping to replace with a single built in oven and hob.

The old cooker is connected to a spur below the counter and a 6mm2 T&E tail to the appliance.

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• byronsmith
• 21 May 2015
• 2

The spur above is connected to a red cooker switch with a 10mm2 T&E, which then leads to the CU on a separate 30amp circuit with 10mm2.


I purchased a 16amp 2.9kW oven, and 6.6kW hob. Sadly, the oven has been shipped with a 13amp plug(!), even though it never mentioned it would.

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• byronsmith
• 21 May 2015
• 2

Before I send this thing back and waste time I thought I would ask you clever lot if it was possible to still hardwire this oven regardless? I don't want the extra expense of getting in an eletrictian to add addition 13amp switched FCU.

Surely if the load ia fixed then I should be good to simply hardwire both the exiting spur.

If you need any additional images, I will be happy to include.

Cheers
Byron

PS: I cross posted in Appliances. If anyone knows how I can delete the post from Appliances I would also be grateful.

 

[Taylortwocities]

If the instructions say that the oven must be protected by a 13A due, then the plug needs to stay. If you cut the plug off, then the only protection will be a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, and that's not good.

The solution needs some minor electrical work.

Where the cooker connection point is, you need to remove this and change the back box for a dual box.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-galvanised-steel-dual-35mm/48234?_requestid=186841

Then, put a single 13A socket in one side of the box (for your oven). The existing cooker connection point will go in the other half of the box to feed the hob. That's it, job done.

Edit. To remove your post from Appliances, go to the post and hit the Alert Moderator button. Ask them to remove it.

 

[byronsmith]

Well the conundrum continues. I went and did just that, read the instructions. The instructions clearly say:

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• byronsmith
• 21 May 2015
• 1

Do not connect the appliance with a 13a fuse?? Wtf Bosch. Its got a 13a plug and cable...

 

[Taylortwocities]

Hmm, the info on the web says something different

Consumption and connection
features
Energy consumption conventional
(kWh) - cavity 1 : 0.89
Energy consumption forced air
convection (kWh) - cavity 1 : 0.79
Electrical connection rating (W) : 2900
Current (A) : 16
Voltage (V) : 220-240
Frequency (Hz) : 50-60
Plug type : GB plug
Color / Material Front : Stainless steel
Energy input : Electric
Approval certificates : CE, KEMA
Dimensions of the packed product (in) :
25.98 x 25.98 x 26.77
Net weight (lbs) : 72
Gross weight (lbs) : 77
Length electrical supply cord (cm) :
100.0
Required niche size for installation
(HxWxD) : 575-597 x 560 x 550
Dimensions of the product (mm) : 595 x
595 x 548
Net weight (kg) : 33.000
Gross weight (kg) : 35.000


EDIT: Time to phone Bosch. There will be a helpline number on the instructions.

 

[byronsmith]

Was that from Bosch?

The site I purchased it from doesn't mention a plug.

http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/bosch-oven-and-ceramic-hob-pack-stainless-steel-black.html

 

[byronsmith]

Good idea, I'll give Bosch a call.


Thanks for your help.

 

[byronsmith]

Confirmed by Bosch. I can use the plug that comes standard, or if simply remove the plug/cable and I am able to hardwire it. Confusing much!

 

[ericmark]

Using a fused connection unit (FCU) and hard wired compared with using a plug and socket is nearly the same.

All fuses produce heat with a FCU this heat is dissipated into the wall with a plug it needs free air to remove the heat (or fan assisted where the oven has a cooling fan).

So the option is yours FCU or Plug.

I think the idea of an eye level oven is great. However where the oven is mounted under the hob then one has to ask why not use a free standing unit?

The free standing unit has some advantages over built in. The oven can have three elements on together with stand alone with built in there is time sharing so functions like closed door grilling does not work as well. Also the fans do not cool the hob as well with some stating they should not be mounted above the oven. Controls is another point stand alone tend to have knobs where built in tend to have touch controls. With a halogen hob to be far touch controls are likely better as easy clean but with an induction hob touch controls are useless. They are simply too slow to operate.

My stand alone is just slightly lower than the work tops so any spills are contained on the hob. Built in are are often proud of the work top so any spills run onto the work top and damage anything left on the work top.

So to get an eye level oven it's worth the down side but where mounted under the hob then simply no point stand alone is better.

I go a ceramic hob back in 1982 and it did work well. But it was much slower than gas and cleaning was not easy. I have spent hours cleaning off built up spills. 2006 we got a near identical cooker as a replacement except the ceramic hob was induction and the oven had 12 different modes. They may have looked the same but when we came to use the new cooker there was a world of difference.

Against:-
The shelves in oven can now fall out.
There is no built in splash back.
There is no glass hinged protector on the knobs.
Plus:-
It does not need the splash back and protector on knobs as so little now gets split.
The oven has so many extra features we still have not learnt how to use them the door closed grilling has transformed our cooking.
The hob makes gas seem extremely slow.
The safeties which auto turn of the hob are extremely good.
Oven door glass is easy to clean.
The list goes one. It is easy to forget all the extras found in built in ovens are now found with stand alone plus more.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Confirmed by Bosch. I can use the plug that comes standard, or if simply remove the plug/cable and I am able to hardwire it. Confusing much!

Not really.

The fuse is to protect the cable.
A 13A moulded plug will have a 13A rated cable.

Get some 2.5mm² flex (heat resistant will be recommended) and a dual outlet cooker connection unit and connect both the oven and hob to the existing cable.

 

[byronsmith]

Not confused about that, the confusing bit is that the instructions contradict the initial setup. They should clearly state the two conditions.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Get some 2.5mm² flex (heat resistant will be recommended) and a dual outlet cooker connection unit and connect both the oven and hob to the existing cable.

Are you sure about that? If Bosch say it is OK to cut the plug off, he would use the supplied 2.5mm² to connect to the CCU

 

[deadshort]

Confirmed by Bosch. I can use the plug that comes standard, or if simply remove the plug/cable and I am able to hardwire it. Confusing much!

Not really.

The fuse is to protect the cable.
A 13A moulded plug will have a 13A rated cable.

Get some 2.5mm² flex (heat resistant will be recommended) and a dual outlet cooker connection unit and connect both the oven and hob to the existing cable.

2.5mm protected by a 32a mcb !!!!!

DS

 

[EFLImpudence]

Are you sure about that? If Bosch say it is OK to cut the plug off, he would use the supplied 2.5mm² to connect to the CCU

I don't quite understand your question but:

Confirmed by Bosch. I can use the plug that comes standard, or if simply remove the plug/cable and I am able to hardwire it. Confusing much!

 

[deadshort]

If the instructions say that the oven must be protected by a 13A due, then the plug needs to stay. If you cut the plug off, then the only protection will be a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, and that's not good.

The solution needs some minor electrical work.

Where the cooker connection point is, you need to remove this and change the back box for a dual box.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-galvanised-steel-dual-35mm/48234?_requestid=186841

Then, put a single 13A socket in one side of the box (for your oven). The existing cooker connection point will go in the

other half of the box to feed the hob. That's it, job done.

Edit. To remove your post from Appliances, go to the post and hit the Alert Moderator button. Ask them to remove it.

I agree with TTC , less hassle and 1/2 hours work .

DS

 

[EFLImpudence]

Confirmed by Bosch. I can use the plug that comes standard, or if simply remove the plug/cable and I am able to hardwire it. Confusing much!

Not really.
The fuse is to protect the cable.
A 13A moulded plug will have a 13A rated cable.
Get some 2.5mm² flex (heat resistant will be recommended) and a dual outlet cooker connection unit and connect both the oven and hob to the existing cable.

2.5mm protected by a 32a mcb !!!!!

433.3.1(ii)


So, replacing a double back box with a dual back box and fitting a socket is less hassle than replacing the cable, is it?