garden lighting

[SteveCav]

Hi, I am looking to run mains to 5 separate areas of the garden and then power ELV lights from these. Currently there is power in ashed (done 10 years ago, pre Part P) as follows. Armoured cable taken from the back of a house socket (ring) and feeds another consumer unit in the shed. One feed for the light in the shed and another for a socket. I was planning to use a spare on the CU to feed to a JB in the garden (armoured) and then wire from there to each of the 5 areas radially ( or would ring be best) and then place ELV tranformers etc in IP rated box. Was planning to use 2.5 armoured as cable runs not that long. Is this okay? Or is there a better way and will rhis get past Part P

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Armoured cable taken from the back of a house socket (ring) and feeds another consumer unit in the shed.

You might as well stop right there.

That arrangement is wrong, and nothing that you do to add more load will comply with Part P.

 

[SteveCav]

The addition of the second CU was done by an electrician, should that not have been done and if not what is wrong with it (done prior to Part P). If I can't use that second CU then presumably I'd have to go back to the main CU and wire from there (not practical really) or is there another way

 

[Steve]

The addition of the second CU was done by an electrician, should that not have been done and if not what is wrong with it (done prior to Part P). If I can't use that second CU then presumably I'd have to go back to the main CU and wire from there (not practical really) or is there another way

The second CU is all well and good to feed one socket and one light, and it can be done by taking a feed from a ring main (for light loads), BUT IT MUST GO THROUGH A FUSED SPUR! So that the current is limited to 13 amps!

I suspect 2.5mm² has been used, which is NOT suitable for this purpose. 2.5mm² should be taken as being rated to between 20 and 25 amps, and its connected to a 32 amp protective device. I'm sure you can work this out as being wrong (the ring main being rated at 32 amps is because there are two conductors feeding every socket)

And as ban said, all the work you propose is very notifiable under part p.

As you propose adding more load onto the current arrangement, I'd start from scratch, and give the shed a dedicated circuit from the house CU.

 

[SteveCav]

Thanks for explanation Steve. I know it's all going to be notifiable under part P. However, starting from stratch (main CU) will mean ruining decor, lifting flags (done last year for Conservatory). What about taking feed from garage as this is feed directly from main CU? If I did go back to the main CU what would be the best way to wire up the garden (ring?)

 

[ColJack]

best way to do the lighting ( ignoring the dodgy shed install ) is to have the transformers in teh shed where it's nice and dry, and run the ELV wiring to the lights.

use the proper extension cables and then you wouldn't have to part P since it's a pre-assembled lighting kit..

but as you've already been told, this will add more strain to an already limited supply..

would not a 4mm radial from the ringmain comply steve?

it has the capacity to handle 32A and is used for 32A radials..?

depending on where it is on the ring it would unballance the distribution of current arround the ring, but probably not by much..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Let's cut to the chase....

 

[SteveCav]

Thought about running ELV from dodgy shed with transformers inside but some of the cable runs would be 60+ metres. Really wanted to run 240V and then simply put necessary transformers in IP rated box. That way I can change the lights / add extra without having to dig up cable. I'll check out dodgy shed wiring when I get home. As stated earlier I need to avoid going back to the main CU

 

[ColJack]

http://www.podington.co.uk/outdoor-lighting/luxform-cusco-solar-lights-10-pack.html

TADA!!!.. job done...

 

[SteveCav]

Thanks coljack these are cheaper than the ones I looked at and will do for the planting area but not the decking/patios, I'll still need power to give the brightness required

 

[ColJack]

make your own...

I see a gap in the market here...

a seperate charger panel, a larger battery bank and a set of "wired in" lights......

12V charging panels linked to a car battery in a box maybe and a bit of electronics that switches on the LED lights when it's dark...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That would be notifiable.

And those little spike lights are useless. Fine if you want something glowing gently amongst the flowers for a few hours after dark in summer, but not good at all for actually lighting things up, and no good at all for even decorative purposes in winter.

 

[SteveCav]

Just checked the dodgy shed wiring and the wiring is taken from the back of a ring socket and into a new CU via armoured cable. The CU has 2 RCDs mounted in it - 1 6A for light & 1 16A for the socket.

So if I was to run the garden lights from the 16A RCD would this be acceptable? I know it would be notifiable

 

[Lectrician]

NO!

You need to change how the CU is fed. You need to put an Fused Connection Unit next to the socket it has been spurred from and feed the SWA from that.

Then you can add a new 6amp MCB to your shed CU, and wire from that, via a switch, to your lights.

Use 1.5mm SWA and use some gewiss type boxes with the transformers in. Best to get a back of perrana nuts to help you with the earthing at the IP boxes. No need to run a ring either!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Armoured cable taken from the back of a house socket (ring) and feeds another consumer unit in the shed.

That arrangement is wrong, and nothing that you do to add more load will comply with Part P.

The second CU is all well and good to feed one socket and one light, and it can be done by taking a feed from a ring main (for light loads), BUT IT MUST GO THROUGH A FUSED SPUR! So that the current is limited to 13 amps!

Just checked the dodgy shed wiring and the wiring is taken from the back of a ring socket and into a new CU via armoured cable. The CU has 2 RCDs mounted in it - 1 6A for light & 1 16A for the socket.

So if I was to run the garden lights from the 16A RCD would this be acceptable? I know it would be notifiable

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