Gas "Pressure" issue?

If your going to "gas rate" an appliance, all you need to do is compare the result to the data plate on the appliance as that will give you the heat input.
 
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If your going to "gas rate" an appliance, all you need to do is compare the result to the data plate on the appliance as that will give you the heat input.

Yep, and having just looked at the boiler, there is nothing that resembles a data plate anywhere on the external casing. I've even just climbed up on the counter to see if its hidden on the top surface, but no...

Looking in the manual, it shows the data plate is on the upper surface of the control panel, an area thats not visible unless you remove the cover...

Similarly, the cooker, has no visible external rating plate that i can see, having looked inside the grill and oven and all round the rest of the visible casing...


Perhaps the guy has an Eidetic memory, and thus had the figures stored right there in his head?

Anyway, given a figure from the manual (http://www.idealheating.com/downloads/manuals/157757-3.pdf) of 21.7KW, would you say a measured figure of 18.31KW is acceptable?
 
I'm not saying it's been done right in your instance, just how it should/could be done. If one figure is Gross, and the other is nett they aren't too far out, but I would check a few things before I left it at that. If those are both Gross or Nett then something isn't right. I don't understand how anyone can pronounce a boiler safe with out removing the case.
Similarly last week I did a LLGS and the tennant asked me why I was taking the fire off the wall, the previous 2 guys hadn't according to her :rolleyes:
 
I dont see what you are trying to achieve apart from setting up arguments with the landlord!

There is no need for a CP12 to open the boiler up. All that is necessary is the measure the power input. This can be done from the gas meter!

Tony
 
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What am i trying to achieve?

a) i want to know if the current situation with fluctuating gas pressure is safe and legal

b) i want to know the gas safety inspection that is a legal requirement, is being carried out properly


for a, i've garnered something along the lines of "its not right, but probably wont cause any problems"

for b, i've got conflicting views, both on here and what i've been told by various tradesmen, some folk saying the boiler cover should be removed and the internals inspected to prove safety, others saying thats not required. Theres also the issue of whether the guy doing the test was actually properly certified to do the test, given the values from the gas safe website.
 
2 points here - A RGI must have all the types of appliances he is qualified to work on listed on his card, if they are not there, he can't legally work on them.
Secondly, the domestic WORKING pressure required at the meter test point is 21 mB plus or minus 2 mB. At 18 mb, you're already on a loser. There's a strong possibility the meter governor is at fault and it's not regulating correctly when under load (it's a common problem on older governors) - call National Grid - they will check and replace for free if necessary.
Don't dive in and assume it's the pipework yet.
 
Looks like everyone has a different view point

OP says, the back panel is corroded, OP says there is a reduction in flame size when boiler kicks in. The variation between actual reading and data badge would I am sure require further investigation.

Tony I am surprised at your comment about the CP12 being a non invasive test. fact is the actual reading shows a discrepncy which I think you being a clever person not known to making mistakes, I am SURE you would pop the cover and have a gander inside.

Clearly some answers here would suggest 5 yearly reassement is not a bad thing :eek:
 
Looks like everyone has a different view point

OP says, the back panel is corroded, OP says there is a reduction in flame size when boiler kicks in. The variation between actual reading and data badge would I am sure require further investigation.

Tony I am surprised at your comment about the CP12 being a non invasive test. fact is the actual reading shows a discrepncy which I think you being a clever person not known to making mistakes, will I am SURE you would pop the cover and have a gander inside.

Clearly some answers here would suggest 5 yearly reassement is not a bad thing :eek:

The back panel/flue corrosion issue was sorted before we moved in!
 
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The Gas rate could be low for many reasons, boiler could haves modulated down, turned off on stat, be range rated.
No real issue other it being low.

Then you have gross/Nett issue to consider.
 
Lee, agree with you 100%. If there is doubt, would you not remove the boiler cover and test inlet pressure? I am sure you would not walk away.
 
And I was under the impression that the original question was about gas pressure being affected on one appliance by another appliance firing up. Appliance inlet working pressure at full rate coupled with flame picture is an alternative to gas rating. I always check both on safety reports anyway.
You can't carry out a Landlord's Gas Safety without removing covers as far as I'm concerned. Or without the proper equipment. Or without the proper competencies. Which are listed on your ID card. :mrgreen:
 
yes i am surprised at Tony's answer too :eek:

how can you test the inlet pressure & look at the flame picture without removing the case, yes the ratio might indicate that it doesn't req a full strip down but you can't do a proper check without removing the case & no turning on the hob or the boiler shouldn't effect either so IMO either it is a faulty govener giving a low outlet pressure or undersized pipework.

yes please OP i'd be interested to see what his reg says he is allowed to do
 
There is no need for a CP12 to open the boiler up. All that is necessary is the measure the power input. This can be done from the gas meter!

Tony

Sorry Tony, but you can't just Gas Rate - OK - Done. Though I know alot that do. Some do even less than that, how they keep their GSR or even sleep at night is beyond me.
 
2 points here - A RGI must have all the types of appliances he is qualified to work on listed on his card, if they are not there, he can't legally work on them.
Secondly, the domestic WORKING pressure required at the meter test point is 21 mB plus or minus 2 mB. At 18 mb, you're already on a loser. There's a strong possibility the meter governor is at fault and it's not regulating correctly when under load (it's a common problem on older governors) - call National Grid - they will check and replace for free if necessary.
Don't dive in and assume it's the pipework yet.

This sounds quite probable.
 
oh dear oh dear, i have just checked his reg, & the OP is quite correct in the info he reposted from GS, OP it is illegal for him to issue a cp12 unless the only thing he is testing is the pipework, as you have appliances connected he is working ILLEGALLY, you need to phone gas safe & report him ASAP before he kills someone
 

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