Glass cooker splashback installation questions...

[Deluks]

I have a sheet of frosted glass roughly the same size as a cooker splashback, 62x78cm. I would like to fit this behind our hob and tile either side of it, the problem is that the glass is still see-through, so whats the bext way to fix it to the wall without

a) the fixing showing through,

and

b) stopping any dirt from getting behind it/hiding any dirt that gets behind it?

Would it be possible to paint the glass on the back (frosty side) first to make it opaque, if so what kind of paint to use?


New worktop going in soon, walls are currently bare plaster.

 

[Jasonb]

Paint the back with an oil based paint then stick to the wall with silicon, tile to within a couple of mm then grout between glass & tiles.

Jason

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

Alternatively, use double sided tape to fasten the perimeter of a piece of plastic laminate to the back of the glass and mount the assembly with mirror mounting hardware.

Some of the hardware stores in your area will likely sell plastic laminate "handi panels" which are 2 foot by 4 foot sheets of various kinds of plastic laminate salvaged from damaged 4 foot by 8 foot sheets.

 

[Jasonb]

Alternatively, use double sided tape to fasten the perimeter of a piece of plastic laminate to the back of the glass.

Problem with that is the DS tape will still show through the glass.

have a look at this pdf, it shows what painted glass will look like.

http://www.preedyglass.com/serv/painted.pdf

Jason

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

No, that's what Preedy's painted glass looks like.

If I painted some glass, I'm not confident it would end up looking exactly like Preedy's painted glass.

After all, Preedy makes a living selling his painted glass.

But your point is well taken. A pane of glass painted on the back would make a highly heat resistant easy-to-clean surface that would hide whatever grunge there is on the wall behind it. And, that seems to fit the requirements exactly.

 

[Deluks]

Thanks for the replies guys, really useful advice.

I've got a pot of 'Dulux Satinwood Pure Brilliant White - for Wood & Metal' knocking about here, will that be any good?

It says on that link to preedyglass that painted white it will go aquamarine? I guess that the same as the splashbacks in the picture. Will this look **** against a black worktop with stainless appliances? or should I paint another colour?

The tiles will probably be hot rock charcoal from B&Q (grey), is it worth tracking down some similar coloured paint?

Thanks again!

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

I'd use whatever paint you have.

But, if you have both an oil based paint and an emulsion paint kicking around, I'd use the oil based paint both cuz it will dry to a harder film and so it's not as likely to get scratched by anything on the wall deeply enough to scratch through the paint, and cuz oil based paints stick to smooth surfaces better than emulsion paints. (I realize that your glass is frosted, but I don't know if that would be rough enough for an emulsion to stick well too.)

I can't figure out how this company says that white paint will look aquamarine when viewed through glass. If you look at the edge of a pane of glass, you see that glass is NOT blue, but a green color. However, you have to look at the edge of the glass to see light that's traveled through enough glass for it's color to become apparant.

You say your glass is "frosted", meaning it looks white because it's surface is rough. Are both sides of the pane frosted? If only one side is frosted, I'm presuming you intend to paint the frosted side so that the smooth side will face outward for easy cleaning.

 

[Deluks]

I've got loads of emulsion, in fact I have some Dulux 'kitchen & bathroom' emulsion which is supposed to be tougher once on the walls (dunno how that works)

The satinwood stuff I believe is solvent based though, and I've been googling glass painting, managing to find sites about art (painting patterns on windows and mirrors) and they recommend solvent based.

The aquamarine in the link that J supplied does show green glass, and the stuff I have already has an ever-so-slight greenish tint so you're right with that one. The sea in England is green (with occasional brown lumps) so I'd assumed aquamarine meant green anyway.

Your last paragraph is correct, frosted side inwards. Heres a link to the actual stuff I have:


I was also intending on using the bigger piece on the back wall of our kitchen, low down from top of skirting, and tiling around top edge to maintain continuity between the worktops on the left and right.

Look at the 2 way galley Here the glass would be low down on the wall next to the fridge, disappearing behind the fridge and floor cabinet on the other side.

Any thoughts or obvious flaws?

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

Well, I'm having a bit of trouble visualizing it, but that's to be expected since I'm not there to see it myself.

Anyhow, I don't see any problem either painting the glass nor using it as a backsplash behind your stove.

You'll just have to be careful moving the stove into and out of place after repairs so as not to damage the glass, that's all.

 

[Diyisfun]

Is this safety glass & heat resistant?, the back wall will get HOT.

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

Would the back wall get hotter than the plastic knobs on the front console of the stove?

 

[Deluks]

The glass is toughened, and about 3mm thick, the hob is (ceramic) electric and sits in the worktop, so the heat rings are spaced about 3-4 inches from the wall. I can't imagine steam or heat from the rings having much effect on the glass itself.

 

[Jasonb]

the reason that the white painted glass looks green is the way the glass is made, if you look at the cut edge of glass it has that same tinge to it.

What colour are your walls painted? get a small pot of oil based egg shell mixed up to match. Don't use emulsion, your satinwood will be fine.

There will be no problem with heat. Have you got to cut the glass as you can't cut toughened glass.

Jason

 

[Deluks]

the reason that the white painted glass looks green is the way the glass is made, if you look at the cut edge of glass it has that same tinge to it.

What colour are your walls painted? get a small pot of oil based egg shell mixed up to match. Don't use emulsion, your satinwood will be fine.

There will be no problem with heat. Have you got to cut the glass as you can't cut toughened glass.

Jason

The glass in question is 78x62cm for the splashback, which should be fine. I know that this stuff can't be cut.

The other piece is 195x78cm, and will go from one corner on the back wall, (which will be concealed by the fridge anyway) but won't quite reach the other side, but the end will be hidden by a 600mm cupboard. Look at the double galley design in my previous link.

We have light beech doors (Howdens Greenwich Beech), a stainless cooker/hob/hood, black worktop and will probably just paint the walls and ceiling white.

As such I'm concerned that it will look a little bland, so a couple of colourful glass features on the wall might give it a nice look. I'm currrently thinking of painting the glass 'middle sky blue' from this link: http://www.kitchencalm.co.uk/tilesandsplash/glasscolours/glasscolours.htm or maybe I should go with the graphite grey, to match the tiles?

 

[Diyisfun]

Nestor_Kelebay

Would the back wall get hotter than the plastic knobs on the front console of the stove?

Yes it could do, but ORDINARY glass, should nu be used, thats why I was asking.
Toughened glass (it must be if it cant be cut) is a different animal, as is ok.