Glow Worm 30cxi hydroblock or not ?

[DIYandME]

Ok I know the Glow worm 30cxi is an issue itself but she has held up pretty well until now (6 years old). However she's started leaking water from the bottom quite substantially filled up about 6/7 buckets 3 gallon buckets already. Strange thing is hot water and heating working fine, water pressure has only dropped by 0.3 from 1 bar 0.7. Had a plumber pop over he reckons hydro block minimum £250 bummer of job apparently, but spoke to another plumber in pub last night and he said pressure should have dropped if hydro block !!! Anyone got any ideas ? I've had a quick look at manual but ain't got clue and so much water leaking seems to be coming from all over and spraying too !!! Phoned Glowworm they not having it out of warranty !!! Shall I take the hit and get a new one ?

 

[mr-crs]

Hi it could be leaking from the dhw side which would have do effect on the system pressue and from the amount of water you have lost i think thats the case here. It can be a difficult job especially if access around the boiler is restricted, however at 6 years old its worth repairing I would have thought.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

if its the hydro/sani block ya wouldn't lose pressure as it leaks on the mains side. chances are its either the sani block or the dhw flowswitch, just pop the cover off and have a look. if it is on the sani block it norm splits on the seem and ya get a fine jet spraying out

 

[DIYandME]

Thanks gents! Just popped the cover off and the fine spray is present and leaking from a large black plastic piece guessing this is the saniblock/hydroblock! Not much room to work in and paid 200 quid a yearvago for a plumber to come in and change variuosparts until he fixed it! So think I may bite bullet and get a new one as no-one seems keen to give it a go anyway

 

[gas_man_gaz]

easy job just time consuming. the saniblocks have been upgraded (the part that splits is now copper) i norm change the disconector and aav whilst it is drained as they norm leak wen filled back up

 

[Agile]

Usually when they leak they spray water all over the PCB and spoils it.

If your boiler is still working then my advice would be to turn OFF the mains power and water inlet.

When its dried a bit you might be able to bring it back on for CH.

It should not be a very expensive job to have the block changed.

I have never done one on that model but on similar ones it has never been much of a problem to replace.

Tony Glazier

 

[misterdubya]

Very time consuming but simple if you can be methodical.

 

[Boilerman2]

And dead easy if you have access to the Left hand side of the boiler

 

[Agile]

The leaking G-W I went to was leaking from the RHS !

 

[DIYandME]

don't think its a job for me I can juust about change radiator!! Part is 110 I'm told got full access to boiler its wall mounted cheapest quote for fitting 140 so 250

 

[bell824]

her's my tuppence worth, if you have been quoted 250you would be insane to go ahead with it,
Call glowworm (yes i do work for them ) they will charge a one of 250 but will replace the faulty part and also check and make sure the full boiler function is ok.
Why pay the same for joe blog's or get the makers man to make a full diagnosis and replace all required for the same price!!
sorry if sounds like advertising to me it just makes financial sense, can be done in about 1hr

 

[DIYandME]

Cheers bell, I will give them a ring this morning to see what they can do! I'd prefer 250 ova 1250 for new boiler and install I could get on some gas care scheme then perhaps?

 

[DIYandME]

Not sure if this confirms anything but just turned cold tap on few times a kinda hissing sound comes from boiler and leak increases substantially for couple seconds?

 

[Monsieur27]

Hello,
sorry for using an old thread.my boiler glowworm 24ci.
I had a leak from saniblock on the part going to the heat exchange.
now i swaped it with a new one who comes with copper pipe,long job for an amateur like me,apart from a leak from pressure relief valve hopefuly will go with a new washer.
my questions are,do i have to do anything to the bypass setting on the new sani block for the flow rate or leave it as it is(already set),according to my boiler manual i quote "
The boiler has a built-in bypass.
The boiler is supplied with the bypass open half a turn. It should
not be necessary to adjust the bypass, but if required ensure
that under no circumstances does the flow rate fall below the
figures specified, refer to table 1. in section 3 (turn clockwise
'A' to close the valve )."
the other question the new sani block copper pipe comes with thermistor connection clipped on the pipe compare to the old one(plastic)hasn't got one,bear in mind that i already have one thermistor connected to the heating flow pipe on the centre of the boiler,what do i do with shall i remove it or do i have the option to plug it somewhere.
many thanks for your replies.