Glow Worm Ultimate PCB fault - require resistor colours

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Hi, I have a Glow Worm Ultimate 40FF which has Stopped...it's quite obvious from the PCB what the fault is:

I have a 2 Fuse PCB, and the resistor R11 next to fuse F1 is all burnt up and gone open circuit.

Rather than buy a complete new PCB, I'd like to replace the resistor (I work for an electronic company), but I don't know the value to replace it with.

If anybody has to hand one of these, could you please post the resistor colours, then I can do my bit for the environment and repair rather than discard.

Thanks.
 
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You need a little more knowledge than just the resistor value!

Resistors dont just burn up!

They only overheat when subjected to a current overload.

To repair your PCB you will need to see what the function of the resistor is and find the real fault that caused it to overheat.

Tony
 
The real fault was a couple of "dry joints" on the board, which have caused more current to flow through this resistor than it was designed for.

Over a period of time (possibly since new:9 years) it has just been running this resistor a little warmer than it would normally. Eventually it has just given up the ghost.

The company I work for can get the part for pennies, but Glow-Worm have told me that it's not repairable and they can't give me the information I require....hence they want me to pay a large sum for a new PCB.

What ever happened to the age of repairing something rather than just throwing stuff away and getting new?
 
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If anyone can post a close colour picture of the area of the PCB with the R11 then I can decode the colour.

Tony
 
as the guy works for an electronics company as an engineer i'm sure he knows his own resistor colour band and their values.

Try emailing a guy called geoff at a company called CET they repair boards and he'll deffinately know the R value.
 
:D FIXED!! :D
It's 27K ... the band I couldn't read turned out to be orange...

So I removed the resistor and forensically analysed it using a USB microscope...kinda guessed it was orange, then did a Google search for photographs of the PCB (thanks to all those out there selling PCB's!!), which confirmed my thoughts.

Touching a few dry joints on the board, and replacing the resistor with a 27K one means I have now had hot water again since Sunday !

Thanks to everyone who replied with hints and tips regarding resistor colours.
 
I suspect this may be a mains dropper resistor with a power disipation of 5-10 watts which will run hot.

Its better to mount these on a longer lead length thus spacing them further from the substrate and thus critically further from their own solder connections. Even spirialing the lead will improve the heat loss further.

Tony
 
All,
just to let you know that three years on and the bopiler is still running smoothly.....all for half an hours work and a component costing less than 10p!!
 
Hello Paul :)

Just to let you and the others here in the forum know, at our Glowworm Ultimate 60FF the exact same thing happened last week: the resistor R11 after the fuse burnt and the PCB was scorched around it. The fuse didn't blow.

:) stefan
 
....for those looking at this thread - my original fix made back in 2009 is still going strong - the boiler has behaved perfectly since my replacement of the resistor.

:D
 

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