Glowworm 30FF Ultimate constant buzzing, PCB at fault?

[fuzzyone]

Hi guys,

I probably already answered my own question but wanted to check with the pros, my boiler started to make a loud buzzing sound when the missus went turn hot water on early today.

Even with the control panel not calling heat to either CH or HW the boiler still buzzes loud. Sounds like an eletric buzz. I've had a look and the buzz is coming from the PCB board as when i feel the metal casing I can feel vibration.

This PCB was changed by myself approx a year ago, the only thing i can physically see is 1 burn mark on it, see pictures:

So could this be the problem? this was service a few months ago and it was in good nick.

Also this affects the water pump in the airing cupboard, that also has a faint buzzing sound and i suspect this is not circulating water around. All 4 lights on the PCB are lit which i believe means its working?

To avoid further issues I've removed the 2 fuses in the PCB as i need the main fuse as its powers other stuff in the house and using immersion for the time being.

PS: The PCB board has been changed twice in the last 5 years, best i start saving for a combi boiler!

 

[petertheplumber12]

Yes it looks like a weakness with that boiler, the PCB. Look into getting an Intergas boiler, they seem to be more reliable or rather less to go wrong than many of the condensing boilers, I went on a course with them and they look easy to maintain as well.

 

[bolshy]

So an Intergas doesn't have any electronics, then?

 

[Agile]

None at all obviously!

Pete has been on a course too!

 

[petertheplumber12]

So an Intergas doesn't have any electronics, then?

You know as well as I do that all boilers have electronics. Intergas don't have divertor valves or secondary heat exchangers (yes I know there are others without secondary heat exchangers) and so the electronics don't have top do so much work and there is less to go wrong, not nothing to go wrong.

 

[Agile]

You know as well as I do that all boilers have electronics. Intergas don't have divertor valves or secondary heat exchangers (yes I know there are others without secondary heat exchangers) and so the electronics don't have top do so much work and there is less to go wrong, not nothing to go wrong.

Are you quite so sure about the C&M Corvec ?

 

[fuzzyone]

thought i post back, i've fixed the issue now, it seems to be the resistor burning out as i went for a recon one and it showed the same burn mark. Might just resolder it myself next time.

But yes i agree, the PCB is a weak point as it was replaced 2-3 times by the previous owners and this is the 2nd time i've replaced it.