GU10s all failed at same time?

[Nfpv]

Hi all, first post.

I have 12 gu10 bulbs in the kitchen, 6 are operated by one standard switch and likewise for the other 6.

However they have all stopped working all of a sudden, the fuse box hasn't tripped either. I tested 2 new switches but this wasn't the issue, I have also replaced all of the bulbs and still no change. I have checked the wiring into the switch and all is secure.

Do these bulbs usually have a main box or something? No transformers I assume as they are gu10 bulbs? If there is a box how do you get to it?

I'm now baffled as to what it could be, would appreciate any help that may avoid need for an electricians bill.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

GU10s will be 230V/240V, MR16s will be 12V, the voltage rating is quite often printed on the lamp (AKA bulb). So worth checking for that, also 12V are normal pin fittings that push in and GU10s will twist in to holder.
12V lamps will have transformers, 230V/240V won't.

 

[securespark]

Any other lights not working?

Are they on dimmers?

There may be a loose connection at a switch or junction box or ceiling rose somewhere in the circuit prior to the kitchen.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I tested 2 new switches but this wasn't the issue, I have also replaced all of the bulbs and still no change. I have checked the wiring into the switch and all is secure

Perchance did these two switches operate the two sets of lights that don't work and did they stop working just after they were replaced?
And what methods did you use to test them?

 

[securespark]

I tested 2 new switches but this wasn't the issue

How did you test them?

EDIT: Sorry, PBOD has already asked this.

 

[ericmark]

12 x 50W = 600W = 2.6A power to lights maximum of 6A so if I was fitting that many lamps to one room then I would consider using a fused connection unit (FCU) and feeding them off the kitchen ring so they would not overload the lighting system. Standard fuse would be 3A very close to 2.6A so one bulb blowing with ionisation could easy open the fuse. So I would be looking for a FCU feeding the lamps.

That must be a really hot kitchen if they are halogen it would not need any heating.

 

[Nfpv]

Hi

I used to have dimmers but replaced them with standard switches. When I say test I mean I bought two brand new switches and tried them.

I'm thinking it could be a loose wire in a junction box, the night it happened my daughter threw a tantrum and was stamping up and down upstairs which might have caused something to come loose?

The lights have worked fine and have had no issues. Is there a method for locating said boxes to check?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is there a method for locating said boxes to check?

Detective work is best, and some luck. Very often, lighting like yours is just tacked on to the existing lighting circuit, so look for where the original light fitting may have been. There's probably a JB at or near that location. Flooring may need to be lifted for access.

But you'll also need a multimeter, or a two-probe mains test device (NOT a neon screwdriver or a magic wand). You can't find faults like this just by changing things and hoping you'll fix the problem.

 

[securespark]

(NOT a....magic wand).

Sometimes I wished I had one on the trickier fault-finds...

 

[winston1]

12 x 50W = 600W = 2.6A power to lights maximum of 6A so if I was fitting that many lamps to one room then I would consider using a fused connection unit (FCU) and feeding them off the kitchen ring so they would not overload the lighting system. Standard fuse would be 3A very close to 2.6A so one bulb blowing with ionisation could easy open the fuse. So I would be looking for a FCU feeding the lamps.

That must be a really hot kitchen if they are halogen it would not need any heating.

If I had 600 watts of lighting in the kitchen I'd be ripping them out and replacing them with something a lot more efficient.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I used to have dimmers but replaced them with standard switches.

And they were working prior to his and then immediately after stopped???

When I say test I mean I bought two brand new switches and tried them.

Not really an electrical test to prove they have been correctly wired, I suggest a multi-meter is purchased and the cables are tested out. Also visually check to see if any conductors are broken at the switch, that cables are secure and not loose within terminals and that you have not nipped up the pvc insulation of the conductor within the terminals, thus preventing good contact of the copper conductor.

I'm thinking it could be a loose wire in a junction box, the night it happened my daughter threw a tantrum and was stamping up and down upstairs which might have caused something to come loose?

or you may have pulled the switch cables and dislodged the conductors from a nearby junction or wired them back incorrectly.

The lights have worked fine and have had no issues.

That is why I think you have introduced a fault when replacing them

Is there a method for locating said boxes to check?

It would be investigative work, the simplest method would be to remove the flooring of the room above and see if there is any evidence of previous floorboard removal, as they would more than likely provided access to services within the void and used for electrical and plumbing installations. If that fails to bring any joy, then removing the fittings from the recess holes, would hopefully allow access to any joint boxes. If you do come across any boxes that are not going to be easily accessible in the future replace them with the maintenance free type J804