Has anyone used a Sonoff relay switch?

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Hi folks,

Have an electrician coming round soon to do the second fix of my outbuilding but need to put up the plywood walls and hence do the socket cutouts etc before he comes. One of the cables running from the small CU feeds an extractor fan, which I want to control through a humidity sensor like the Sonoff THR320D. From what I can find on the net, it runs 'in-line' with the T&E cable (one end in from the CU and another out to the fan) which means I would have to cut 2 small holes for entry and exit of the cable through the ply? Unless anyone has any better ideas?

Secondly, as per an example internet pic below, it seems the switch just has the actual individual cores running into it individually, which looks a bit raw? Is this right, as the rest of the switch is designed to be on display but the wiring part looks like it's meant to be hidden inside a box or behind a wall?

Appreciate any advice or if anyone's got something similar?

Thanks

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Is this right, as the rest of the switch is designed to be on display but the wiring part looks like it's meant to be hidden inside a box or behind a wall?
Those particular Sonoffs have a DIN rail mounting and are designed to be mounted in a separate enclosure.
Screenshot_20230214-130344_Chrome.jpg
 
Can you post an example of the kind of enclosure it goes in? I would have thought it defeats the point of a display if its not on display. And the physical switch is useful to use a physical switch if need be.

I'm looking at trying to have it surface mounted on display rather than in a box.
 
I would have thought it defeats the point of a display if its not on display.
Typically, in a non-domestic setting, many devices may be mounted next to each other in a single enclosure. The lid would then have a cut-out to view the display and the buttons.

I'm afraid it is quite difficult to recommend an enclosure as there are so many out there and there are different ways of solving your problem.
But something like this may be a start? (you may also need cable glands and a hole in the top to press the button).

 
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Thanks, but seems like unnecessary cost and effort - can't see what an enclosure adds. Looking at the promotional pics on their website, they've mounted it on the wall without an enclosure.
 
Thanks, but seems like unnecessary cost and effort - can't see what an enclosure adds. Looking at the promotional pics on their website, they've mounted it on the wall without an enclosure.
That's your prerogative :)
But, without the enclosure, the device won't have double insulation, or cable retention.
You might be able to find a way of mounting it beneath one of your ply sheets, or it should fit in a 2 gang back box.

...and the website pics are a bit 'iffy'!

 
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How can you get the sensor and it’s wire through that enclosure?

The pics do look iffy right? It’s the live and neutral cores on display without flex insulation. Can’t believe it would have been difficult to design it so the flex comes out a pair of glands at the bottom. Or even to exit at the back so it becomes like a big standard socket.
 
We ONLY fit them inside an enclosure requiring a tool to open due to the lack of double insulation.
I have one of these and am planning to put it in a cheap 3 module Wylex box:


Would have been nicer to have something more complete though.
Do you think it will fit in those? I was on a job last year where a CU enclosure had been installed by the electricians to house several, My part of it was to fit and wire in sensors and assist with commissioning, however the lid didn't fit on the units. I didn't look to see why as the customer had not accepted our quote for the whole installation in favour of the electricians. We did the commissioning then isolated the power, adding warning notices.

Thanks, but seems like unnecessary cost and effort - can't see what an enclosure adds.
A enclosure adds the missing compliance with the wiring regs
Looking at the promotional pics on their website, they've mounted it on the wall without an enclosure.
Those promotional pictures are typical eastern, computer generated, BS. IIRC the instructions (If you get something in English) mention something like ensuring compliance with local rules.


Oh and be verrrrry careful when installing as the mounting clip is verrrrrry easily damaged, so people tell me.
 
I've got a couple of the cheapo relay units. They don't like continuous heavy load (2kw fan heater), fine at 1kw though. The wiring method is a pain- not only the visible cores also nowhere to connect or terminate earth so enclosure is required- nuisance cos you then can't get at the manual override.
At the time the units were quite a bit cheaper than a smart 13A plug/socket, not sure if that's still true.
 

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