Help needed filling out a electrical Installation Cert

[ericmark]

I am also had problems the first few I did with a moulded breaker what do you enter as “Type” there is no B, C or D so I entered MB which thinking back was not really enough info. I would enter % of rated current it is set for and note “See manufactures data sheet” now. We are also told the measure the Line / Neutral impedance but there is nowhere to enter results.

Most the questions you ask are found by inquiry, which in real terms means copy them from last certificate issued. This in commercial premises should be available so one can see a trend. However we all know domestic premises tend to have lost any paperwork that existed 10 years ago.

So in real terms we either enter it as code 3 as we are not permitted to remove fuse to check what it is or we guess. I would enter code 3. So would look something like below.

BS, Type “Code 3” No of poles “3” Current rating 100A Voltage rating “400V” Location “What ever” Fuse rating or setting “less than or equal to100A” (Would use sign but may not work on forum. Likely fuse is BS 3036 but we don’t always know. I take normal voltage as being U on three phase supply and Uo on single phase supply.

2-phase, 3-wire is where two phases are brought in from a three phase supply and 1-phase, 3 wire is where a single phase is split 230 – 0 – 230 so U = 460 volt not 400 volt but people living in towns may never see a 1-phase, 3-wire system these tend to be farms etc.

I think it’s better to say don’t know than guess so I would put code 3 but other I have seen guess what it is likely to be.

I use IET forms and they are not perfect but are near enough and can’t see anyone can object to them. If you use any other versions the questions may be different the IET has explanation to the forms I would hope all others do the same.

I may not be doing it right but no one that matters has complained.

Eric

 

[Cremeegg]

It's very easy to pass the 2382 and not know how to fill in forms as the 2382 is nothing more than an exam on the structure of BS7671 - it need not test electrical knowledge at all.

The only reference to the forms is likely to be where to find them not what you should put in any of the boxes.

You shouldn't however get through the 2391 without knowing.

 

[ericmark]

I can remember doing my C&G 2391 around 2002 and testing and inspecting a test rig with all the items right in front of me it took over an hour and I am sure I have never again been so strict on an inspection and test.
So in real terms we see three grey twin and earth cables entering a consumer unit from top. More than 1mm gap corner of cable to edge of grommet so we should give it a code 2. Well I wouldn't? On the other hand one twin and earth though a 20 mm hole with grommet then yes it would get code 2. But if it was not an open grommet but a blank with hole punched in it I would look at location and likely I would let it pass.
The same with blanking plates where MCB's have not been fitted it says must not be able to remove without tool or key 412.2.2.3 and many I can remove with thumb nail so should fail and at ground level in a house I would but at waist level in garage I would not.
Maybe I am wrong but it is a judgement from experience and nothing to do really with rule book and what I have been taught.
And the domestic is very different to commercial in a factory no one in their right mind would try to remove MCB blanks with their nails but where a 4 year old child is roaming the story is different?
And I can see where one is not part of a team of electricians one would want to find out what others do with inspecting and testing.

 

[GaryMo]

So in real terms we either enter it as code 3 as we are not permitted to remove fuse to check what it is or we guess. I would enter code 3. So would look something like below.

Code 3 on an EIC? That's for a PIR.
I would simply add unknown unless you can get any sense from the DNO!