Help! Patio advice needed :)

you can hire a small whacer plate for about £40 a day, it will take you about 30 minutes to use!

Is the rodding eye circular and in the midlle or edge of a slab?
 
Sponsored Links
Thermo said:
you can hire a small whacer plate for about £40 a day, it will take you about 30 minutes to use!

Is the rodding eye circular and in the midlle or edge of a slab?
Cool - I'll need to find other things to whack with it to get my money's worth!

Spot on, the eye is standard circular job and will lie right on the edge of two adjoining slabs.
 
mark its outline on the slabs, but leave some play in it so you can point around it. It depends how good you are and how used to using an disc cutter/stihl saw. You need to make cuts from the edge of the slab down to the edge of the circle. Repeat this all the way across the circle so they are a few milimeters apart. they should just literally fall out, or when you touch them with the grinder they should then fall out. You can then just neaten up the edge of the cut by standing the slab up vertically, supporting it so it wont move, and using the cutter to touch along the edge of the circle. Might take a bit of practice, but its fairly easy once you get going, try it on a few off cuts first
 
Cheers Thermo. I may mark the slabs and take them round to pal who has a stihl saw.
 
Sponsored Links
Hey guys,

I have now laid the patio on a bed of sharp sand and sealed the edges where it will meet either lawn or cultivated borders, with cement. I have left the other edges untouched, assuming that the gravel/stone that I intend to lay around those edges will suffice to hold everything in place. (If this sound optimistic, please let me know :) )

Here is a quick movie of how it looks.

Now, the pointing, I have on average about a 10mm gap around each slab, and they are pretty square on the edge, no uneven edges. I had intened to get kiln dry sand a nd brush in, as previously suggested, but I have come across something called 'polymeric' sand, which apparently comes in a foil bag, and when opened is brushed into the gaps, and within a few hours it sets hard, binding the sand together, but still allows water permeability. Has anyone used this stuff, and would you recommend it for what I have in mind.
 
Firstly, you need to do the same to all the exposed edges with cement mortar.

couldnt get the video to work, but if you have 10mm gaps, they will be far to wide for kiln dried sand to work very effectivly. Ive looked at the polymeric pointing compounds, but never used them. i always point with cement mortar. Takes a little time, but it gives a very good finish.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top