HELP! Replacing EP2000 with Honeywell ST6400C
- Thread starter pinzy
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Actually something just struck me (lost a couple of brain cells last night!!) ...I can currently switch my CH and HW independently but the EP2000 doesn't allow me to set On/Off times independently....sorry I didn't clarify this earlier.
I am assuming then my system is ok and does just need a new programmer to set independent on/off times for CH and HW
I am assuming then my system is ok and does just need a new programmer to set independent on/off times for CH and HW
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The EP2002 cannot repace the EP2000 on gravity system because the heating & hot water systems ARE independant, in the EP2000 CH & HW times are the same, so the heating only on the EP2002 will not bring on the boiler.
May I suggest the following.
1. Buy a 2-gang surface mounted pattress (double socket box) to use as a terminal box. This is because the EP2000 terminals A, B, C, &D are just terminals for your convenience, not connected internally, the same for the N and E terminal blocks.
2. Wire the N & E wires to the new terminal block, and the A, B, C, & D likewise.
3. Terminal 5 on the EP2000 is the common and is usually linked directly to L, the new Honeywell controller has this internally linked, so all wires from 5 go straight to the L terminal.
4. Connect N & L to the new programmer base, screwed to the pattress, the old terminals 1, 3, and 4 are the same so should be a straight swap.
Finally make sure you have a 3A fuse in the supply before you switch it on, just in case......
May I suggest the following.
1. Buy a 2-gang surface mounted pattress (double socket box) to use as a terminal box. This is because the EP2000 terminals A, B, C, &D are just terminals for your convenience, not connected internally, the same for the N and E terminal blocks.
2. Wire the N & E wires to the new terminal block, and the A, B, C, & D likewise.
3. Terminal 5 on the EP2000 is the common and is usually linked directly to L, the new Honeywell controller has this internally linked, so all wires from 5 go straight to the L terminal.
4. Connect N & L to the new programmer base, screwed to the pattress, the old terminals 1, 3, and 4 are the same so should be a straight swap.
Finally make sure you have a 3A fuse in the supply before you switch it on, just in case......
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Having drawn and stared at the current wiring for days ( ) I think that actually makes sense to me
It doesn't have the 3 amp fuse anywhere so that will be my first port of call!
Thank you guys for taking the time to give advice I really appreciate it.
) I think that actually makes sense to me It doesn't have the 3 amp fuse anywhere so that will be my first port of call!
Thank you guys for taking the time to give advice I really appreciate it.
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