help with radiator valves

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Hi, For years, since I had rad fitted,trv makes a noise when off, and heating turned on.The only way to stop it is to turn on, then off when hot.To stop this I turned other side off too, totally isolating rad, but flange started leaking on valve, which I cannot stop.so it looks like new valve, ordinary, not the trv, which is the noisy one,Any idea why it makes noise on start up, when cold? What side should it be on?inlet/outlet.And any tips on draing rad,(upstairs) without whole system.WHITE carpet.Would I be better changing both?
 
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TRV's can start to buzz a bit when they get old....even with new biodirectional ones I reckon that they are best fitted into the flow of the radiator.
To isolate, you can plug the outlet and expansion pipe of the F&E tank in the loft....this will give enough vacuum in the system to prevent major water loss. Failing that, just drain down enough to empty that particular rad.
Simple if you have a combi - just allow the system to depressurise via a rad bleed valve.
Get the carpet well out of the way!! The water in the system is sure to have some carp in it.
Don't forget the inhibitor when you refill, and choose a quality TRV like Drayton 4 for long life. These often come with a lockshield valve too. Homebase were doing them for around £21 recently but you can get them a bit cheaper.
John :)
 
TRV's can start to buzz a bit when they get old....even with new biodirectional ones I reckon that they are best fitted into the flow of the radiator.
To isolate, you can plug the outlet and expansion pipe of the F&E tank in the loft....this will give enough vacuum in the system to prevent major water loss. Failing that, just drain down enough to empty that particular rad.
Simple if you have a combi - just allow the system to depressurise via a rad bleed valve.
Get the carpet well out of the way!! The water in the system is sure to have some carp in it.
Don't forget the inhibitor when you refill, and choose a quality TRV like Drayton 4 for long life. These often come with a lockshield valve too. Homebase were doing them for around £21 recently but you can get them a bit cheaper.
John :)
Hi, Thanksfor reply, this has been buzzing since new, thought it was because it was fitted on outlet side? It,s combt system.by flow, I presume you mean on outlet side of rad??
 
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No, flow is the side which heats up first, ie the inlet.
Hi, Chris, cannot change trv to opposite side asithas completely different compression fitting to main pipes .Trv not straight forward comp fitting, trv, male, ordinary valve, female.any hints?
 
The only easy way to do this, if you don't want to try some pipe work, is to renew the old valves with the same make...and usually you get there.
Example - the Drayton TRV4 is a direct replacement for the TRV3. Well handy!
Chances are the new TRV will be quiet anyway.
John :)
 
you can also try screwing down the lockshield at the other end. This will reduce flow through the radiator and so the nopise will be reduced.n The lockshiled can be less than one turn open and still have good flow. Try closing it and then opening it just a fraction until it starts to get hot.
 
you can also try screwing down the lockshield at the other end. This will reduce flow through the radiator and so the nopise will be reduced.n The lockshiled can be less than one turn open and still have good flow. Try closing it and then opening it just a fraction until it starts to get hot.
Hi , thats what I did, and then it leaked on flange. Could not stop it., changed lockshield, even new one is different to old one, had to cut 5 mil aprox off to fit onto olive.new one shallower.Was going to put new trv on lockshield side, have one each side, old one left always open, BUT, new trv had 15mil to 15 mil .90 degree, my rad is larger fitting, about 19-22mil. not old rads, only 15 years old.why can.t they leave well olone, like for like, same in engineering buisness. :: cheers anyway.
 

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