hip angle

[punker]

i am building a roof with two hips.

i have got to the 1st hip and i have a choice but i need help.

if i put the hipboard from the last rafter (at the ridge) to the corner of the wall it will make an angle of 44deg and therefore the jackrafters on the other side of the hipboard wont line up (at 400 centres).

i can either make the spacing of the jackrafters about 420mm to make them line-up with the other jackrafters or i can make the hipboard 45deg by changing where it sits on the wall (i.e. not at the wall corner but slightly off it) or changing were it meets the ridge?

Whats best?

 

[noseall]

Keep the hip central on the corner and on the peak.

If you have to close up the jacks on one side slightly then do so, do not open up the other. They can be off set by a minimal amount if the hip board is flimsy or by a greater amount if the hip board is thick.

 

[punker]

Thanks for your help Noseall

i guess that's why you're called noseall

 

[^woody^]

One degree won't make much difference, and I doubt it can be measured to that accuracy anyway

 

[punker]

thanks

any idea if it ok to use a 25x200 ridge board as a hip and butt rafters to it. it works out to be 3.9m long? if so i assume i would have to brace it or do i need to use 50x200 graded?

 

[noseall]

i guess that's why you're called noseall

It's because i have a big nose hence all-nose or...

 

[noseall]

any idea if it ok to use a 25x200 ridge board as a hip and butt rafters to it. it works out to be 3.9m long? if so i assume i would have to brace it or do i need to use 50x200 graded?

There has been much debate on this very forum about what role the ridge board actually plays. Some say it is structural others say it merely acts as a spacer.

There is argument to suggest that a pair of jacks meeting at the hip junction will have an amount of forward thrust. Others say all the load is transferred to the wall plate similar to a ridge.

My opinion is that the hip blade is useful especially when fixing the roofing battens.


The thinnest hip i have seen specified is 38mm.

 

[^woody^]

I don't think it's a structural issue, just practical. A thinner hip will bend more as it is worked on from one side, and might split easier when nailed. But I can't see why. 25mm hip won't work. Whether the BCO is experienced enough to concur, is another matter

 

[catlad]

I would not use a fascia board as a hip.

 

[^woody^]

I would not use a fascia board as a hip.

No, don't use fascia board ...... especially the plastic type, and planed would be a waste of money too.

25x190 timber would be OK though. Use the bits left over from use as a ridgeboard

 

[noseall]

The deflection in thin timber could be a bit of a mare, as you run up one compound cut (i.e. one side of the hip) at a time.

You could fix the other side at the same time but it would mean switching the saw all the time.

Me, well i would use a thicker timber.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

The deflection in thin timber could be a bit of a mare, as you run up one compound cut (i.e. one side of the hip) at a time.

You could fix the other side at the same time but it would mean switching the saw all the time.

Me, well i would use a thicker timber.

If you use a hand held circular saw set to 45d cutting down the jack plumb cut no re setting needed

 

[noseall]

If you use a hand held circular saw set to 45d cutting down the jack plumb cut no re setting needed

Yeah provided you have forearms like Popeye!
Compound cuts have a tendency to wander so it would take a lot of effort and an exquisitely sharp circular saw to achieve a decent plumb cut.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

You know what they say about blokes with big noses?





























Big nostrils!

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Yeh I agree hefting around a 9" c/saw is a bit of a job if your fore arms and nostrils are normal ,there's a light weight Bosch c/saw on the market its 7.25"that will cut 2" 0n the 45d that looks interesting for jacks.