Honeywell 2 way Zone Valve

[chris1000001]

Hi

I have a pair of 2 way zone valves controlling my heating system that I would like to replace. They are OK at the moment (touch wood) but one squeals a little and the other has a power head that slips occasionally.

They are similar to these Honeywell valves http://www.honeywell-controls.co.uk/productView.php?ProdID=310825&cat1=Honeywell Controls but instead of the 1" BSP thread they have a non-standard female thread, no longer available in this country (to the best of my knowledge).

Also, they have 6 wire power heads and the valves are normally closed.

They are fitted to 28mm pipe work but this is stepped up from 22mm then reduced down again immediately after the valve.

I would like to replace them with their 22mm compression fit equivalent as this would be the easiest option to fit, simplify the pipework and wont require any more floor boards to be removed (I forgot to say they are under the floor boards). It would also be the cheapest option and I hope, this model wont become obsolete in my life time.

Unfortunately though, as I understand it, the 22mm compression fitting valves have 5 wires.

Is it possible to wire a 5 wire valve into a 6 wire system, if so how ?

And would the flow restriction be a problem ?


(It's a vented system running 5 radiators in a relatively small 2 up 2 down house. I want to change the entire valve and not the power head).

Can anyone help ?

Thanks for reading.

 

[swbjackson]

When you say they are similar to the honeywell ones are they honeywell or another make?

 

[doitall]

A pic and make of the actual valve would have been so much better.

 

[muggles]

There should be a model number on the valve somewhere, normally on the head. What is it?

 

[chris1000001]

Hi,

It's a Honeywell and is almost identical to Honeywell model V4043H 1080 1" (bsp) zone valve 240 v except with a different female thread.

The model no' on the head is: 40003916-001

Without the power head.

 

[matt1e]

Is it possible to wire a 5 wire valve into a 6 wire system, if so how ?

yes as the valves white wire more than likely wont be used on your system,
and even if it was needed then there are still solutions

Matt

 

[chris1000001]

Can anyone suggest a work round ?

 

[Agile]

Those valves dont have a "funny female thread".

They are "internal" compression fittings for 22 mm tube.

All that will be needed is to remove the 22 mm olives to enable a new nut and olive to be fitted for the new valves.

No big problem!

Tony

 

[chris1000001]

As I said earlier, they aren't the standard 1" bsp internal female thread or internal compression fittings for 22mm tube (they are fitted on 28mm tube). I have tried that one.

These have a finer thread pitch, possibly a manufacturers own thread which isn't available from on any of the online sources or from my local plumbers merchants suppliers.

If anyone knows of a source that I have missed though, a link would be great but I suspect I will need to change the valves and pipe work, either to 22mm compression or 28mm compression.

22mm would be easiest as there isn't too much space to play with but I am concerned that dropping down from 28mm to 22mm will restrict the flow too much, although as I said the pipe work has been stepped up to 28mm to fit the valves anyway.

The reason for the 28mm valves could be for the 6 wire configuration so if anyone knows of a suitable 22mm compression fit valve with a 6 wire power head or a work around using a 5 wire configuration, that would be great too.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

 

[simond]

You are making this very complicated for yourself.

Go out and buy 2 Honeywell 28mm zone valves. Take the olives and nuts off the pipe, fit your new valves, fill up and vent.

We do this for our day job.

The white wire is not used in most installations, it is energised when the valve is closed. Therefore you must park each white wire in an insulated block or similar.

British Gas dont trust their technicians to go into the wiring centre when these are changed, so they fit a diddy little in line junction box and connect colour to colour. Simples.....

 

[Dan Robinson]

We do this for our day job.

Are you implying we might actually know what we are talking about? And that we don't know what size pipes and fittings are out in the wild?

Well I never..

 

[chris1000001]

Which type?

28mm 1" BSP (female thread) zone valves ? Unfortunately, the internal diameter of the valve body is to small for an olive and fitting, the tube only just clears the thread - I was told they were intended for use on iron pipework - after I had got it home and tried to fit it.

or

28mm compression fit zone valves ? They are physically longer and there is almost no movement in the pipework to allow for fitting. This is what I was trying to avoid, I can fit them but will need to modify the pipework.

As I will have to modify the pipework one way or another I was hoping to use 22mm valves. It saves stepping up to 28mm and dropping back down to 22mm in a small space. 22mm valves are cheaper and available everywhere too. Hence the question about flow and wiring.

Thanks for the heads up on the wiring, is there anyway I can tell if it is used in my installation ? The wires go into a JB under the floor, is it just a case of checking whether there is a corresponding wire coming out of the JB or checking with a multimeter whether it is energised when the pump is off ?

 

[simond]

Cut the tube with a pipeslice or spring the tubes apart.

Or you could buy a new Honeywell valve plate and keep the old bodies in situ. The valve plate comes with a new ball etc mounted to the plate.

You can then just buy new actuator bodies to go with them.

And you don't have to check the voltages on the cores, the colour codes are identical. Join the new flexes like for like.

This is not a drama, it is simple. You are unlikely to find the valve plates at B&Q, you need a heating merchant. Probably not the one you have already been too though = they might lock the door.

 

[chris1000001]

I had to cut the pipe to get the old valve out and even then it was tight.

The valve plate comes with a new ball etc mounted to the plate.

I didn't know there was a refurb kit, that would be the best solution, I'll track one down. I'm not sure if my local plumbers merchants stocks them, they didn't have them when I was there last week - I don't earn enough money to be able to afford B&Q prices.

And you don't have to check the voltages on the cores, the colour codes are identical. Join the new flexes like for like.

Is one of us missing something ? I wanted to find out if the white wire was used on my system so I would know whether there would be a problem with using a 5 wire actuator.

I didn't know someone could make such a meal of a couple of 2 fairly simple questions. That's what happens when someone thinks they know it all I guess

 

[matt1e]

Is one of us missing something ? I wanted to find out if the white wire was used on my system so I would know whether there would be a problem with using a 5 wire actuator.

I didn't know someone could make such a meal of a couple of 2 fairly simple questions. That's what happens when someone thinks they know it all I guess

chris, the only way the white wire will be used on your system is if you have C plan
and since you have a hotwater valve and a heating valve then the only way the white wire will be used is if you have c plan plus and it will be only the white on the hotwater valve that is used

so you can go ahead and change the heating valve for a 5 wire one without problems

now to the hot water valve
turn on hotwater only, does the pump run as well as the boiler?
if so you dont have c plan change the valve for a 5 wire one
you could also look at the pipe work, if the pipe from the pump splits then feeds the two valves then thats fully pumped s plan not c plan so the white wire is not req

you even try disconecting both valves white wires, make them safe then run the system, if it all works normally....... well there you go

Matt