Honeywell Smartfit Error Code F3

[Orothon]

Hi,

I've a Honeywell smartfit 2 channel 24 hour programme controller which has started showing an F3 error code yesterday and we now have no heating or hot water. Can anyone shed any light on what this code means as internet searches reveal nothing.

We've had someone out to look who's suggestion is to replace the unit but I'd really like to know the meaning of the error code before shelling out on a new unit.

Thanks

 

[seco services]

heating valve has short circuit.

useally a fault in the actuator.

 

[Orothon]

heating valve has short circuit.

useally a fault in the actuator.

Is there any way to diagnose this easily?

And out of interest, how does the room unit know there is a fault in the actuator when the only connection between the room unit and the base unit is the mains supply?

 

[seco services]

Is there any way to diagnose this easily?

no really only by the fault code

And out of interest, how does the room unit know there is a fault in the actuator when the only connection between the room unit and the base unit is the mains supply?

same as any electrics if theirs a short a fuse will blow, this tells the unit theirs a fault.
if the actuator is not responding to what the unit wants it to do then the unit will know if the valves not opened or open etc.

i take it it's a 1 x 3 port valve ? not 2 x 2 ports.

 

[Orothon]

i take it it's a 1 x 3 port valve ? not 2 x 2 ports.

If you mean Y system then yes.

 

[seco services]

i'd be changing the actuator first. common on the smartfit.

one actuator fits all valves.

 

[Bigballcock]

I know this is an old thread but I'm adding my comments as they be of help to someone else who encounters this problem. I had the F3 code appear on our control panel and found the problem to be the 470 microfarad (uf) electrolytic capacitor thats soldered across the motor terminals inside the actuator casing. I didn't have a capacitor of that value to hand so I soldered in two 220uf ones in parallel and that's done the trick. Capacitors cost pennies. You'd be mad not to try this before junkng the actuator if you can use a soldering iron. Other checks: switch off the power then unplug the lead at the actuator. An F2 error code on powering up confirms the problem to be in the actuator as opposed to the lead. If so power off, open up the casing and check the capacitor for any bulging on the lead end. If it's not completely flat it has failed and needs replacing. I would replace anyway if you've got this far. With the casing open and the capacitor disconnected you can put an ohmeter across the motor terminals to see if there is either a short or open circuit. Either scenario means the motor is knackered. Even this you can probably find quite easily from somewhere like RS components, Farnell or model making sellers on epay again for pennies.