Hi everyone, I'm having a bit of trouble with the heating in the house I've recently moved into. Can anyone tell me how the honeywell 4613 valve should be wired? Currently the grey is live, brown the timer signal. When the timer activates the valve opens but it doesn't close when the tank stat reaches temperature. Just to check it's wired ok can anyone tell me how it should be wired? Cheers
Honeywell Vc 4613 two way valve.
- Thread starter Shropshireman
- Start date
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It is a 2 port (plastic head).
It should be wired as an S plan ie (in your own terminoligy) the timer signal should go to the cylinder stat and then back from the cylinder stat to the brown.
It should be wired as an S plan ie (in your own terminoligy) the timer signal should go to the cylinder stat and then back from the cylinder stat to the brown.
Hi guys, thanks for the quick reply. The situation is that I moved into the house that has underfloor heating, solar (water) panels but things werent working correctly. For example, the pump on the underfloor manifold runs 24/7 regardless of whether there is a call for heating or not. There is an ACL twinzone 16 connector box on the tank with two cylinder stats (honeywell) one for heating about a quarter of the way up the tank the other for hot water about half way up. They have C,1 and 2 connections but only C and 1 go back the the connector box. The hot water pipe from the boiler has a pump on it and this pipe goes into two, one going into the top of the tank and one nearer the bottom, both controlled by a VC4613 two port valve. There is a grasslin controller/timer with separate heating and water control.
The reason I think it may not be wired correctly is because the motorised valves don't power close when they get up to temp. When I opened up the connector boxes (there's another on the wall with a connector strip in it) there were lots of live wires terminating into terminals then going nowhere and small prices of wire that had obviously been used to link terminals lying at the bottom of the box. I've rewired the ACL box as per the diagram for twin zone in the lid. The the heating and hot water timer now fires the boiler and pump (circulating pump) correctly but I'm not sure how the cylinder stats and motorised valves should be wired to get them working together correctly. Once I get this sorted I'll turn my attention to why the central heating pump runs constantly.
I'll get my gear out and check the voltage across the cylinder stat and let you know shortly.
Ive wired it as an S but the valve doesnt close when the stat gets to temp. Ive put power across the valves and they can power open and closed but i cant seem to get them to do it automatically.
Sorry about any incorrect terminology but I hope I've explained it so that you can get the gist. Cheers.
The reason I think it may not be wired correctly is because the motorised valves don't power close when they get up to temp. When I opened up the connector boxes (there's another on the wall with a connector strip in it) there were lots of live wires terminating into terminals then going nowhere and small prices of wire that had obviously been used to link terminals lying at the bottom of the box. I've rewired the ACL box as per the diagram for twin zone in the lid. The the heating and hot water timer now fires the boiler and pump (circulating pump) correctly but I'm not sure how the cylinder stats and motorised valves should be wired to get them working together correctly. Once I get this sorted I'll turn my attention to why the central heating pump runs constantly.
I'll get my gear out and check the voltage across the cylinder stat and let you know shortly.
Ive wired it as an S but the valve doesnt close when the stat gets to temp. Ive put power across the valves and they can power open and closed but i cant seem to get them to do it automatically.
Sorry about any incorrect terminology but I hope I've explained it so that you can get the gist. Cheers.
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Ok, just checked the voltages. Off - 1 = 0V, 2= 240V, On - 1 = 240V, 2 = 0V.
I have a black and a brown wire from the valve, the brown opens and the black closes. I guess I connect 1 to brown and 2 to black?
I have a black and a brown wire from the valve, the brown opens and the black closes. I guess I connect 1 to brown and 2 to black?
Are you sure the two stats are one each for htg and hot water?
Does sound like you have a thermal store - we've got one, which I wired myself with twin stats to make the boiler work harder and less often. S'pose it could have a lower stat for htg/boiler, then the higher stat for hot water maybe on a timer so the boiler boosts the store mornings and evenings?
Or not
Does sound like you have a thermal store - we've got one, which I wired myself with twin stats to make the boiler work harder and less often. S'pose it could have a lower stat for htg/boiler, then the higher stat for hot water maybe on a timer so the boiler boosts the store mornings and evenings?
Or not
Oh, and does the ufh have it's own wiring centre ie signal out to pump/boiler? Each roomstat should go back to the wiring centre, then a relay drops to turn the pump on and draw from the store. The boiler should be completely separate, controlled by the cylinder stat(s). All assuming it is a TS
Hi Gordonspants. Yes it is a thermal store. I assume that having the hot water on the top stat means that in summer you only heat the top of the tank for water and have a greater differential at the bottom to get the maximum out of the solar panels??? But that doesn't mean that this was how it was originally designed cos going by some of the wiring etc it's had quite a bit of 'fiddlin about'.
I've worked out how to get the hot water/top valve working now (the two valves work slightly differently as the top valve is open when the spring loaded plunger is out and the bottom one is open when the plunger is in). So that side of things works now. The timer clicks in for hot water and makes the common on the top stat live. Call then makes brown on the valve live and the valve opens. When it opens should the orange then go live to switch the boiler and pump? At the moment I've got it wired to the brown but I don't think that a good permanent solution as it could mean that the boiler and pump run even if the valve is closed (which has been happening before). When the top stat gets to temp the sat kicks in and makes the black live to close the valve. And everything shuts down. If the valve is open when the timer switches off I've put a link from the the hot water off on the timer to the black which does the same.
Any help on the orange power on would be good.I'm now going to try and sort the bottom stat and valve out. (long time since I've followed wiring diagrams but some of it's trial and error as I don't have info for everything, lots of tea and biscuits needed, cheers.
I've worked out how to get the hot water/top valve working now (the two valves work slightly differently as the top valve is open when the spring loaded plunger is out and the bottom one is open when the plunger is in). So that side of things works now. The timer clicks in for hot water and makes the common on the top stat live. Call then makes brown on the valve live and the valve opens. When it opens should the orange then go live to switch the boiler and pump? At the moment I've got it wired to the brown but I don't think that a good permanent solution as it could mean that the boiler and pump run even if the valve is closed (which has been happening before). When the top stat gets to temp the sat kicks in and makes the black live to close the valve. And everything shuts down. If the valve is open when the timer switches off I've put a link from the the hot water off on the timer to the black which does the same.
Any help on the orange power on would be good.I'm now going to try and sort the bottom stat and valve out. (long time since I've followed wiring diagrams but some of it's trial and error as I don't have info for everything, lots of tea and biscuits needed
, cheers.Sorry, forgot about your ufh question. Yes, there's a wiring centre at each manifold (both floors). Ground floor has a relay and there's a switch to toggle between control by timer and by the digistat in the lounge which has it's own time and temp settings. It looks like the signal from top floor and bottom floor is perm live and the boiler just runs 24/7. As you say the stats/timer control the T'S and so by early morning the temp of the T'S is right down cos the pumps been drawing from it. I'm assuming the when it's on time control the trigger for the pump should be from the timer and then the room stats/ufh valves via the relay? I need to sit down and think that one through a bit before I try and rewire that one. Some of the wiring is very good and looks professional, the rest is very poor and it looks like so much was done then it was taken over by the home owner. Cheers
Cylinder stat should connect through C and 1.
2 does not get used.
C= Common (power in)
1 = Break on temp rise
2 = Make on temp rise
The orange and grey wires on a valve are from a microswitch inside the valve. You put 240v to the grey and when the valve motor opens it makes (hits) the microwsitch and sends power from the grey down the orange which connects to the boiler and pump (sometimes pumps are controlled by the boiler)
2 does not get used.
C= Common (power in)
1 = Break on temp rise
2 = Make on temp rise
The orange and grey wires on a valve are from a microswitch inside the valve. You put 240v to the grey and when the valve motor opens it makes (hits) the microwsitch and sends power from the grey down the orange which connects to the boiler and pump (sometimes pumps are controlled by the boiler)
Hi doitall. What's the difference?
M
mysteryman
The two valves on the thermal store are probably so that you can heat some or all of the store, and at different temperatures. There could be some logical but complex switching required to cover all possible demands. However, the boiler should not be booted up 24/7.
You would have to post a wiring diagram of you system to make sense of what going wrong but here is how the 4613 should be wired ...
brown to permanent live
black to switched live (from room or cylinder stat)
blue to neutral
as its a thermal store I shouldent think the orange and grey are being used,
although could be used to bring on boiler and pump.
brown to permanent live
black to switched live (from room or cylinder stat)
blue to neutral
as its a thermal store I shouldent think the orange and grey are being used,
although could be used to bring on boiler and pump.
I think it is being used in conjunction with the underfloor heating.
The VC series 2-position hydronic valves are used in domestic and small commercial applications to control the flow of hot and/or cold water or glycol solution to 50% concentration. They consist of an actuator, valve and a replaceable cartrige assembly. These 2-Way valves are designed for ON-OFF “Zone“ control of domestic systems, or for individual room temperature control.
Depending on the model selected, they can be controlled by either a low or line voltage SPST or SPDT controller, such as a room thermostat, a chronotherm or other suitable two-position controller.
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