HOTPOINT WD440G FAULT Ntc FAULT.

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HI, WONDER IF ANYONE CAN ASSIST ME WITH THIS PROBLEM ? I HAD THE MACHINE ON DRYING CYCLE ( LOW HEAT ) AND IT WAS WORKING FINE FOR AROUND 25 / 30 mins, IT WAS THEN I NOTICED THAT THE WATER WAS CONTINUALLY FILLING THE MACHINE AND THE PUMP WAS CONTINUALLY DRAINING IT !!! THE LIGHTS FLASHING ON THE MACHINE WERE 3 & 4 WHICH I GATHER FROM A FAULT CODE LIST I ACQUIRED OFF THE NET TO BE AN " Ntc FAULT" ?? BUT JUST EXACTLY WHAT IS IT ? LAST NIGHT I HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE MACHINE TRIPPING OUT THE Rcd ON THE CONSUMER UNIT, WHICH AFTER RESETTING 3 / 4 TIMES, BLEW THE 13A FUSE IN THE PLUG. I LEFT IT AFTER THAT AS IT WAS LATE, CAME TO IT THIS MORNING AND IT ALL SEEMED TO WORK FINE UNTIL THIS PROBLEM AROSE ! ANY HELP APPRECIATED. THANKS.
FORGOT TO MENTION, I FITTED A NEW HEATER ASSEMBLY ON THE WASHER SIDE OF THIS MACHINE TWO DAYS AGO WITH A NEW SENSOR INCORPORATED IN IT.
 
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Does it work ok on the wash side. If yes then you have either a thermistor fault on the dryer box ie broken wires or a pcb fault , as for the tripping it could be a heater fault on the dry side.
 
HI ROCKS1,
IT WAS WORKING ON THE WASHER SIDE, BUT I PUT IT ON A K WASH AND THE MACHINE WORKED OK FOR ABOUT 10mins AND CONTINUED TO WASH BUT KEPT FILLING WITH WATER AND NOT EMPTYING ? I STOPPED IT AS I COULD SEE THE DRUM 2/3 rds FULL AND PUT IT ON EMPTY. IT DRAINED OUT OK, BUT IT SEEMS TO BE ERRATIC PROBLEMS ? I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE DRYER LAST WEEK, WHEREBY IT WAS MAKING AN AWFUL NOISE AND CAUSED THE mcb TO TRIP. UPON INVESTIGATION, I FOUND THERE TO BE A BROKEN WASHER IN THE MOTOR PART ITSELF, WHICH WHEN REMOVED ALLOWED THE DRYER TO WORK NORMALLY AGAIN, HOWEVER, IT DID ALLOW THE HEATER TO HEAT UP THE BLOWER HOUSING TO A HEAT THAT YOU COULD'NT TOUCH AND WAS EXTREMELY HOT FOR A WHILE. DOES THE THERMISTOR RESET ITSELF OR ONCE TRIPPED NEEDS REPLACING ? I'VE ATTACHED A SEPARATE FEED TO BOTH THE DRYER ELEMENT AND THE BLOWER MOTOR ( EXTERNAL FROM THE MACHINE ELECTRICS ) AND THEY WORK FINE, HOWEVER I DO REALIZE, THAT THE THERMISTOR WAS'NT INCORPORATED IN THAT CIRCUIT AND IS WHEN MACHINE WIRING FUNCTIONAL. BIT STUCK NOW AS DON'T KNOW WHAT ELSE TO TRY ? I'VE REMOVED THE Pcb BOARD TO VISUALLY INSPECT IT, BUT ALL SEEMS FINE, AS DO THE CONTACTS ON IT. INSPECTED WIRING LOOM FOR ANY SIGNS OF WEAR N' TARE BUT ALL APPEARS FINE ?
AT A LOOSE END NOW ????
CHEERS FOR YOUR REPLY AND APPRECIATE ANY HELP / ADVICE OFFERED.
REGARDS

PEDRO
 
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Depending what heater you have there are 2 sorts and the thermistor is next to the heater with 2 very thin ble or black wires on it , also check to top of the mains surpressor back right corner cos steam comes out of the vent on the box and can damage the terminal block. No you cannot reset the themistor you need to replace it. Ps turn caps lock off on keyboard it makes reading harder.
 
hi rocks1, as requested, cap s lock off ! ha.
thanks a lot for the info. i have cleaned everything through,ie, the suppressor cap, pcb board, blower motor, heating element etc, and applied WD40 and will try the machine again. the only thing i had different when the washer element died was on the new one the sensor wires were different so i just put the old one back on, however, it kept poppin' a fuse every 10 mins or so and i just thought that it may have been because the old sensor was closed circuit and allowin the element to be on permanent, but i was a bit puzzled as the element is only 1800 watt and that would only pull 7 an a bit amps yet it was takin a 13a fuse regularly ? anyway, i cut off the cap and replaced with spade connectors and attached the new sensor that came with the element and all worked fine ? so i was slightly puzzled then, but as i say, it worked ok once i'd swapped it, but these faults now seem so erratic an unconnected that i'm wondering if it is just a knackered pcb board with something on that when warmed up, starts sending out all sorts of crazy signals and codes ? why did they ever produce such a bad machine ?
once again, thanks for the heads up. best wishes.
 
Can you post pick of cap ?? Not sure what you have done to it. The Heater should be like for like, what did you put spades on the heater ?
 
on the original connector it has two small pin connections and on the new element it has spade connectors, so i cut off the original connector and just put a spade connector on each of the blue wires to attach to the sensor. i guess that's why it was half the price of all the others on the web, ( £9.75 ), but i was planning to let them know, even though they state it's for the wd440g ?? seems exactly the same bar the plug on the sensor and it seemed to work fine - no problems heating the water. as i said, the only problem i had was while the original sensor was in place. once i'd changed it for the new one, iy worked fine.
 
Hi there again and " Thanks " to Rocks1 for all the previous advice, sorry I haven't posted a picture of the matter with the spade connectors, but I've not managed to master that skill as yet, I guess it has something to do with the fact I'm on the very wrong side of 50 !! ha. still, back to my new problem.
The washer is working and going through the wash cycle, however, were as it was heating the water before, it isn't any longer ! I have tested the heater element itself and it's fine, as i have put an external supply source to it and it heats the water no problem ! There is no supply to the heater element itself whilst the washer is operational. I think there is a problem with the thermistor, as suggested before, I feel it may be tired and not functioning at the temperatures it should as the dryer still gets too hot and if on " high " heat, will trip out fairly soon. I have tested it with a mains tester and the supply to the blower heater is switching off and on, but it seems to be coming back on again much too soon as the heater is still extremely hot when it switches back on. would this effect the washer heater ?
I'm puzzled as to why it's going through the full wash cycle when the water isn't heating ? Anyone any ideas ?
Thanks in advance for any help / suggestions,
regards

pedro.
 
The heater must be working cos it would error out ,how do you know it's not heating. Try this put it on a wash cycle once if fills remove the soap draw and after 20 mins you should hear a hissing sound that's the element coming on. As for the heater box yes they get very hot untouchable , if the themistor Is faulty it would error f13
 
Hi Rocks1,
thanks for the reply. I know its not heating the water for two reasons.
1. The water is freezing cold on being pumped out of the machine and 2. There is no supply going to the heating element during the washing wash cycle. I tested it with a mains tester and there's no supply to it ? if the sensor has gone faulty would it allow the machine to continue through the wash cycle yet signal the pcb that the water temp is fine ? I'm just guessing at everything here I know, but I'm struggling to think of a reason as to why it's doing what it's doing ?
As I said, I also put an external supply to the element and this showed that the element was working fine as the water began heating ?
If there is a problem with the thermistor as I suspect, would this effect the wash heater circuit ? The reason I suspected the thermistor to be faulty was because it didn't allow the element to cool to a sufficient temperature before it allowed the supply back to it ? Do they get tired and only partially work ? or could the fan be running too slow ? It just seems that it gets too hot altogether to be efficient at what it's supposed to be doing ?
 
Can the relay be replaced or is it a case of a replacement pcb ? Also, is it possible to fit a thermal cut out in-line with the dryer heater to limit the time it stays on heating ?

Many thanks for your help ad suggestions Rocks1, I really do appreciate it, "THANK - YOU".
 
Hi Rocks1,
Just a quick question if possible, ? could the sensor on the wash element be faulty, say, locked in the 'open' or 'closed' position, allowing the board to think the water temp was o.k and continuing with the program ?
I just don't understand why it would develop a fault on the board concerning the heater circuit for no apparent reason ?
cheers
pedro.
 
The relay can be replaced if you get the right one from maplins rs etc but wot relay it is I don't know I don't got down to conponent level , as for the thermistor on the heater no it won't be that , the bottom heater controls the wash top heater on dryer controls dry side both totally different , send the. Board to emw in Nottingham for a test it will cost a £5.00 to find out if faulty 45.00 for a new one.
 

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