Hotpoint wma31 door locking issue

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Firstly Hi all,

I'm Pete from the Black Country

I have a Hotpoint aquarius wma31 which has a fault with the door.

The other day the washing machine would not start a wash and the door lock light kept flashing. ( the first light in the row on the right hand side of the washer).

I tried opening and closing the door thinking this may help but nope.

I then checked the door latch and all seems to be working ok.

I assumed it must be the door interlock and so spent 18 quid today on a new one. Swapped it over, simple plug in and two screws.

Did it make a difference? Nope!!

It seems that although the door shuts the latch isn't returning properly. Could this be the issue?

Anyone got any advice or suggestions?

I do have a large hammer but I also have a wife ready to buy a new machine...please help me to not spend money

 

[Leccy758]

These machines usually take out a track on the PCB when the interlock blows

I think the PCB is the user interface panel as well and if memory serves right

Turn off and unplug the machine

Take the top off the machine inside you will be able to see the back of the control panel

using a pair of pliers carefully remove the control knob by pulling out of the fascia.

un-clip the three locking tabs at the base of PCB which can then be slid downwards and out from the fascia

look along where the connectors are on the bottom edge and usually the large white edge connector 2nd track in is blown,

Most of the time a careful repair to this track and all will be ok

(Excuse me if I got the wrong type of control as there is also a type with a mechanical timer which blows a track as well but is a bit more awkward to remove) will post info on that if required

 

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Thanks for that leccy. I'll take a look tomorrow and see whats what. Now I have a rough idea where to look etc I may be able to figure things out.

If it helps the model I have has a dial which you turn clockwise to the programme required????

 

[rocks1]

motor brushes worn down will cause pcb to blow inspect brushes first.

 

[Leccy758]

Ok I got the wrong version ref the PCB 'Grrrs at self'

This is always assuming that it was the door interlock that had blown/gone U/S

That type is a bit more awkward to remove the timer module usually entailing removal of the top Fascia

for anyone that is interested 'takes a deep breath'

Unplug machine
Remove lid
remove soap dispenser
remove control knob (pulls out)
undo screws in area of soap dispenser
top fascia pulls out slightly on the left hand side then slides a little to the right and comes free (wires to switches are usually long enough to enable the fascia to be placed on top of machine)
take note of positions of wiring on timer module
remove screws holding timer module to top of support frame (2 screws through the front)
You should be able to rotate the timer to the left a little and look down (if not remove the timer the edge connectors may need to be removed to do this and the cable ties will certainly need to be)
nearest the front of the timer at the bottom there should be 2 individual spade connectors one of these connects to the door interlock and the track for this is often damaged (usually easily repaired by linking a wire across the damaged part and soldering it on)

If any connectors were removed 'THEY MUST GO BACK ON THE CORRECT EDGE OR SPADE CONNECTORS' otherwise the PCB will be damaged

All the above assumes the interlock had blown and the machine did not work after being replaced.

'Rocks interesting about the brushes blowing the PCB do you mean the motor triac as that tends to be the only part of the motor circuit on these type boards that I have seen blown'

 

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Ok thanks for all your help....I have clean socks on the way


I followed the advice and after swapping over the interlock and nothing happening I took a look at the PCB. Incidentally the directions that were just posted by Leccy were spot on but I had a mess earlier and managed to find my way around.

The pcb was untouched and was in pretty good nick so that puzzled me.

I replaced everything and tried again....nothing. I sat back and thought about the situation and the thing that kept playing on my mind was the fact the latch wasn't returning as it should. I took the door off and dismantled it...removed the latch and hey presto one of the springs was broken.

This got me thinking hmmmm could this actually be the issue?

Best way to test I thought was to test the interlocker so ( and I wouldn't recommend this but hey I'm a dare devil

I removed the interlocker again and switched the washer on..I then activated the locking mechanismn manually with a screwdriver and guess what...the washer stared to fill. So the issue HAD to be the latch.

I again reassembled things and then in true blue peter fashion strapped an elastic band around the hook on the latch and shut the door. Tried to start and nothing. I pulled the elastic band and the door locked and working again.

Tomorrow I'm picking up a new door...why a new door? Because I can get one off a busted machine for a tenner instead of 17quid from the spared shop AND I get to keep the rest ....just in case

Thanks for the help Lads....great site and I'll be popping in for a browse.

 

[Leccy758]

Damn you will do me out of buisness lol

that was the easy answer for my next trick

(just a hint if you do that test for the interlock as you did you dont normally need to remove it and I usually put it on drain only cycle so the drum does not rotate)

 

[rocks1]

Ok I got the wrong version ref the PCB 'Grrrs at self'

This is always assuming that it was the door interlock that had blown/gone U/S

That type is a bit more awkward to remove the timer module usually entailing removal of the top Fascia

for anyone that is interested 'takes a deep breath'

Unplug machine
Remove lid
remove soap dispenser
remove control knob (pulls out)
undo screws in area of soap dispenser
top fascia pulls out slightly on the left hand side then slides a little to the right and comes free (wires to switches are usually long enough to enable the fascia to be placed on top of machine)
take note of positions of wiring on timer module
remove screws holding timer module to top of support frame (2 screws through the front)
You should be able to rotate the timer to the left a little and look down (if not remove the timer the edge connectors may need to be removed to do this and the cable ties will certainly need to be)
nearest the front of the timer at the bottom there should be 2 individual spade connectors one of these connects to the door interlock and the track for this is often damaged (usually easily repaired by linking a wire across the damaged part and soldering it on)

If any connectors were removed 'THEY MUST GO BACK ON THE CORRECT EDGE OR SPADE CONNECTORS' otherwise the PCB will be damaged

All the above assumes the interlock had blown and the machine did not work after being replaced.

'Rocks interesting about the brushes blowing the PCB do you mean the motor triac as that tends to be the only part of the motor circuit on these type boards that I have seen blown'

leccy what mc is this you are on about, the wma 31 in question has 4 screws round the dispenser then it pulls forward unclip the long pcb and replace , has about 6 block connectors on it .i think going by your post its the old old wm 22 23 30 made in 1994 / 97 .the wma was made in 2000 . the door lock problem when the brushes wear out it shorts the armature out and bypasses the lock and blows board up poss traic. i dont go that far .if you replace pcb without checking brushes then bang goes another pcb .in this case it was door spring cost about 3 quid . never mind all sorted now

 

[popoff]

Damn you will do me out of buisness lol

that was the easy answer for my next trick

(just a hint if you do that test for the interlock as you did you dont normally need to remove it and I usually put it on drain only cycle so the drum does not rotate)

If it helps Leccy I'll tell you how I do my gardens quicker and you can do me out of business too lol

Thats why i said I wouldn't recommend my method as after I did it I realised you can manually test the interlocker with a small flat scewdriver from the front whilst its fitted

The reason it started to fill is that the wife was out and she knows how the washer works....I just turned that turny thing a bit then Shat meself

 

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.in this case it was door spring cost about 3 quid . never mind all sorted now

You can buy the springs seperate?????

I assumed that the money making folk at Hotpoint would demand you bought the whole catch...even an Afghanistan version was 17quid hence my call to the local wahser recyclers and a replacement door off a bust one

Theres a credit crunch on you know and I'm a tight ****

 

[rocks1]

oh yes spring on its on £3.31 plus vat part number 1603332 call 08709 077077 easy have fun