I have recently changed the calipars on my Iveco Daily Box van which went very well. However I am struggling to bleed the air out of the system and wondered if there was a particular method that should be followed to get it right. When I depress the pedal (with all bleed nipples tightened) the pressure is there at first and then very slowly drops away as i kep my foot down. I have checked for leaks which there are non so I'm assuming the is air trapped somewhere. I have bled each break through thoroughly and get a strong jet of fluid each time the pedal is pressed. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Is there a particular sequence or method?
How to bleed brakes on Iveco van
- Thread starter ricsworld
- Start date
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yes there is. start from nearest the reservoir, you will notice that the brake lines go from wheel to wheel at the rear. do the one with the 2 brake lines first.
keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure that it is keeped full.
also use a piece of wood to hold down the pedal when you tighten the bleed nipple.
keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure that it is keeped full.
also use a piece of wood to hold down the pedal when you tighten the bleed nipple.
I will try this when the weather eases off. I have left the pedal wedged down over night in hope that some of the air might rise to the resevoir while under presure. I'll be sure to let you know how I get on. Thankyou
Hello ricsworld, I would check the master cylinder, first clamp off the brake hoses then press the pedal if it still goes down then you have found your problem. If the pedal is solid then check the calipers are not leaking in the dust seals.
regards johnwr
regards johnwr
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I'm having the same problem with bleeding my 92 iveco daily 45 10. I changed the brake master cylinder, adjusted the rear shoes and bled the rear brakes first, then the passenger front wheel and finally the drivers front wheel. However I'm now confused as there are 3 bleed nipples on the front calipers, do I need to bleed at all 3 of them?
I understand that the 45 10 has air vacuumed brakes, so do I need to have the engine on whilst bleeding the brakes?
At the moment the brake pedal needs to be pumped several times before it gets solid and even then the brakes aren't fully locking on so I assume there is significant amount of air in the system.
I've checked the rear pistons and the front calipers and all the brake lines for leaks, with none found.
Also as I'm doing this on my own can I use the Gunson ezi brake bleeding kit?
Can anyone help as I need to get the truck back on the road asap.
I understand that the 45 10 has air vacuumed brakes, so do I need to have the engine on whilst bleeding the brakes?
At the moment the brake pedal needs to be pumped several times before it gets solid and even then the brakes aren't fully locking on so I assume there is significant amount of air in the system.
I've checked the rear pistons and the front calipers and all the brake lines for leaks, with none found.
Also as I'm doing this on my own can I use the Gunson ezi brake bleeding kit?
Can anyone help as I need to get the truck back on the road asap.
