I guess I havee read too many upscale designer mags with stories on cool, unique applications of authentic, retro linoleum. I think the stuff is terrific. But I can not seem to find anything DIY for installation tips, or cutting unique shapes into linoleum as seen in the aforementioned mags, or using the welding rods or anything. Any hope or guidance?
how to lay real linoleum?
- Thread starter anneelena
- Start date
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B
breezer
i cut it with a sharp utility knife
To install lino professionally follow this method:
Aim to make a paper template/pattern of the floor area.
Tools:
Cut a rectangle of scrap lino/vinyl 3 inches x 6 inches to use as a template marker.
Pencil
Concave Blades
Hooked Bladed
Have your lino laid out flat in another room prior in install
Using a roll of 2 meter wide felt paper roll by the length of room, trim/cut paper one inch short around the perimeter. This includes toilets doors etc.
Place the marker against the skirting’s/walls and draw a 6 inch line on the paper every 2/3 feet or so. When you reach doors, toilets use the marker more often and draw much smaller lines on the paper and follow the shape you are drawing.
When you have completed drawing marks on the paper, move paper onto lino lay/fix with tape, make sure the paper is completely inside the lino.
Start re drawing your marks back onto the lino with the marker. When you have drawn the room on the lino remove the paper, use a straight edge, sharp concave knife blade and score the lines. This is similar to joining dot to dots.
Finally change knife to a hooked blade and pull through the scores.
With a bit of practice you will have a near identical floor pattern!
Aim to make a paper template/pattern of the floor area.
Tools:
Cut a rectangle of scrap lino/vinyl 3 inches x 6 inches to use as a template marker.
Pencil
Concave Blades
Hooked Bladed
Have your lino laid out flat in another room prior in install
Using a roll of 2 meter wide felt paper roll by the length of room, trim/cut paper one inch short around the perimeter. This includes toilets doors etc.
Place the marker against the skirting’s/walls and draw a 6 inch line on the paper every 2/3 feet or so. When you reach doors, toilets use the marker more often and draw much smaller lines on the paper and follow the shape you are drawing.
When you have completed drawing marks on the paper, move paper onto lino lay/fix with tape, make sure the paper is completely inside the lino.
Start re drawing your marks back onto the lino with the marker. When you have drawn the room on the lino remove the paper, use a straight edge, sharp concave knife blade and score the lines. This is similar to joining dot to dots.
Finally change knife to a hooked blade and pull through the scores.
With a bit of practice you will have a near identical floor pattern!
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This post is over 4years old so I think the OP will probably be sorted by now.
For anyone else I certainly wouldn't advise this as a diy job.
I think mattysupra would agree that this is one job for the professionals.
Linoleum and marmoleum are not easy to work with and you only get one chance to cut. It is not like Karndean or Amtico where if you do make a mistake you can use another tile.
For anyone else I certainly wouldn't advise this as a diy job.
I think mattysupra would agree that this is one job for the professionals.
Linoleum and marmoleum are not easy to work with and you only get one chance to cut. It is not like Karndean or Amtico where if you do make a mistake you can use another tile.
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LOL, ye not for the diy! But the new guy (even if they are a few years behind on the post) has given a very good bit of info on how to install the stuff!
The only couple of things i will make comment on is 'use a marker' if so make sure it is very fine or use a sharp pencil. When you say use a marker on here mate, the people the other end reading this will use a board marker or something 5 or even 10mm thick!
My second comment would be about your scribe bar! Again nothing wrong with what you have suggested but again the peeps reading this will end up with a self cut templater that will be 3" one end and 2" the other LOL.
I would suggest a steal rule or something that you know is the same width from end to end!
Still its nice to see we have someone else on board now that knows their stuff! make a change wouldn't flooringman? might be able to take a holiday at some point this year!
The only couple of things i will make comment on is 'use a marker' if so make sure it is very fine or use a sharp pencil. When you say use a marker on here mate, the people the other end reading this will use a board marker or something 5 or even 10mm thick!
My second comment would be about your scribe bar! Again nothing wrong with what you have suggested but again the peeps reading this will end up with a self cut templater that will be 3" one end and 2" the other LOL.
I would suggest a steal rule or something that you know is the same width from end to end!
Still its nice to see we have someone else on board now that knows their stuff! make a change wouldn't flooringman? might be able to take a holiday at some point this year!
never take it outside to cut in the sun either,because you will find it has shrunk an inch all th way round.lol....as my boss found out 1 day,ahhh did i chuckle,under my breath of course!
How nice of a reply thx for the comments but i couldn't quite describe it, but yes you are correct the steel rule is ok for a marker.
If you haven't a steel rule cut a piece of lino 6x3 it serves the same purpose.
We use this paper template method when coving safety vinyl up the walls for walk in showers. The paper is lightly stuck to the walls and marked the same way.
If you haven't a steel rule cut a piece of lino 6x3 it serves the same purpose.
We use this paper template method when coving safety vinyl up the walls for walk in showers. The paper is lightly stuck to the walls and marked the same way.
surely it would take longer using a template for safety flooring,cap and cove.if u do it by eye it is just as effective? and quicker
twice as fast when you know how! Floorlayer.... do you not use a T scribe for cap and cove? You keep the template paper on the floor and use a T-shaped templater to come from the top of the capping to your template on the floor. No need to take the template up the cove former.
Also to add on to above post, when templating you can get a pre shaped corner template to match the cove former to precut onto a template.
Floorlayer... what area are you? im a NVQ assessor if you would like to do NVQ level2 (providing you dont already have it!) You seem to have move than enough knowledge to pass it, i can get you full funding, add me as a friend and p.m if you need some info!
Also to add on to above post, when templating you can get a pre shaped corner template to match the cove former to precut onto a template.
Floorlayer... what area are you? im a NVQ assessor if you would like to do NVQ level2 (providing you dont already have it!) You seem to have move than enough knowledge to pass it, i can get you full funding, add me as a friend and p.m if you need some info!
old school mate no nvqs when i was a nipper lol
Emm thats the way of a hacker!! 
Maybe im getting old, i was tough by an old style floor layer!! He would never cut in by eye ever, even on cushion vinyls!!
You were saying about the t scribe, i have seen other fitters use the butterfly shape for the corners looks cool. Stuck in me ways though!!
I have got so quick at paper templating over the years it seems to be the quickest and far neatest way for me and my fitters. Check this one i did in a vet surgery: Marmoleum coved everywhere!!
Smile for the camera!! My partner in crime routing the joints.
'twice as fast when you know how' are you asking for a challenge?
Well im 37 years old now and live in Surrey and had never thought there would be nvq's for floor layers!!
Maybe im getting old, i was tough by an old style floor layer!! He would never cut in by eye ever, even on cushion vinyls!!
You were saying about the t scribe, i have seen other fitters use the butterfly shape for the corners looks cool. Stuck in me ways though!!
I have got so quick at paper templating over the years it seems to be the quickest and far neatest way for me and my fitters. Check this one i did in a vet surgery: Marmoleum coved everywhere!!
Smile for the camera!! My partner in crime routing the joints.
'twice as fast when you know how' are you asking for a challenge?
Well im 37 years old now and live in Surrey and had never thought there would be nvq's for floor layers!!
ye nvq is coming in bigtime. You will need it to do any site work soon. There are already a few sites that will not allow you to work unless you have a nvq to prove you can do your job.
If you do domsetic work you will be o.k for a while but it will become like a plummer and corgi registered. Manufactories are changing also, you wont have a guarranty for instance if your not qualified and the same will go for your insurance, they will also be asking if your qualified in the job you work in, if not then why would they give you insurance.
Bit like them giving you insurance on your car but then you having a crash and not having a driving lisence!
It is really simple to pass tho.You need to pass the standard CSCS health and safety test (which is now law for everyone who works on site) and then there is 40 questions then i will come and visit you on site 2x to take a few photos to show you can do your job properly.
you will find some info on this website if you want to read up. http://www.flooringassessments.com/
If you do domsetic work you will be o.k for a while but it will become like a plummer and corgi registered. Manufactories are changing also, you wont have a guarranty for instance if your not qualified and the same will go for your insurance, they will also be asking if your qualified in the job you work in, if not then why would they give you insurance.
Bit like them giving you insurance on your car but then you having a crash and not having a driving lisence!
It is really simple to pass tho.You need to pass the standard CSCS health and safety test (which is now law for everyone who works on site) and then there is 40 questions then i will come and visit you on site 2x to take a few photos to show you can do your job properly.
you will find some info on this website if you want to read up. http://www.flooringassessments.com/
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