I need a led strip light equavelent to 5 foot 80w

[thyristor44]

It is an old fitting, in those days they were 5 foot and 80 watt, 1.5 inches in diameter tube, the newer ones dropped the wattage to 65 watt. So how many lumens would the 80 watt tube give.

out of interest does it have a starter, only time ive seen them is on railway platforms or cold rooms, for some reason they strike better in the cold.
I think the capacitors wired in series with the lamp, so I reckon best way to go is a complete led fitting, retro lamps could involve some rewiring of your fitting and not worth the hassle.
My understanding is a lot of leds are designed to be similar to the equiv length of fleurescent, to sell them, id quess people dont always want to put a 4ft where a 5 foot was purely for asphaetics.
we do carparks and twin 58w fleurs are replaced with twin row led fittings which are 5ft long, beleive it or night they are actually brighter and in manchester people have actually, taken them down and stolen some of them in the night

It has a starter but its only 65watt so fails quite often. The ballast choke is in series with the tube and the choke is directly across the mains to restore the power factor to 1 as the ballast is inductive.

 

[JohnW2]

It is an old fitting, in those days they were 5 foot and 80 watt, 1.5 inches in diameter tube, the newer ones dropped the wattage to 65 watt.

... and, as has been said, the 65W then largely gave way to 58W

So how many lumens would the 80 watt tube give.

I suspect that the old ones may have been much less efficient (hence less lumens), but Googling modern (T5) 80W ones, the first five I looked at claimed 5,700, 6,150, 6,150, 6,450 and 7,000 lumens.

Kind Regards, John

 

[thyristor44]

I might be going off replacing flourescent with led.
One problem I have is the choke in my fitting is from a 6 foot fitting as the original failed years ago and that was all I had. I think the ballast choke limits the tube current so I am overdriving my tube anyway.
I have a 60ish watt fitting so may try that.
I did try hanging 3 -10w leds and campared light output, approx equivalent to 5/80w.

 

[333rocky333]

An old 5ft 80 watt T12 choke limited the current to 0.46 amp
An old 6ft 75 watt T12 choke was 0.39 amp
A new 5ft 58 watt T8 choke is 0.32 amp
A new 6ft 70 watt T8 choke is 0.37amp
Bg fsu is one of the few so called "universal" starters that work well with an 80w lamp

 

[thyristor44]

An old 5ft 80 watt T12 choke limited the current to 0.46 amp
An old 6ft 75 watt T12 choke was 0.39 amp
A new 5ft 58 watt T8 choke is 0.32 amp
A new 6ft 70 watt T8 choke is 0.37amp
Bg fsu is one of the few so called "universal" starters that work well with an 80w lamp

Interesting.
Any more light from a 58 watt hf ballast vs standard inductive ballast.

 

[ericmark]

It is claimed that a HF ballast gives out more light up to 10% extra, and extends tube life that can well double, the problem with a magnetic ballast it can't compensate for low or high voltage but the HF ballast can, so the gains are related to the supply voltage so no hard and fast gain. The HF will strike better as well.

So I have an 18W HF battery backed ballast at the top of my stairs, fitted around 1994 first tube replaced last year. The problem if used with a fault tube for long it can take out the electronic ballast, so where you have 6 lamps on one switch it is tempting to continue to used with a failed tube, and then when replaced you need new ballast, where with a magnet ballast only the starter fails. But this is not an issue with single lamp on a switch.

 

[333rocky333]

I was under the impression, electronic ballasts shut down with a faulty tube, once relamped you often have to power them down to reset them

 

[thyristor44]

I will get a hf ballast fitting when the tube fails then.
I will keep off led replacements for now anyway.
Thanks for all the help and advice on the way.
All the best
thyristor44