Ideal classic FF250 and Lifestlye LP241

Joined
25 Sep 2008
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Location
Warwickshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all - I have searched your forum and seen various issues with the system that I have but none seem to be exactly the right answer for me.
Problem:- system age is 8 years - no issues to date at all untill now.

Timer advance button and programmed action fails to make boiler ignite on CH setting only, no relay click, no light on boiler =no heat .

confusingly timer Advance button and programmed actions correctly ignite boiler on HW settings- relay clicks & light comes on on boiler fans start and gas ignites as I expect.

I have the PCB25B board, as far as i can tell it all works - my fan relay showed signs of blackening under the clear case but the fan works fine.

Boiler ignites and HW works fine just no ignition and hence heat when CH attempts to start.

Both lights come on on the LP241 timer when button pressed- If I take the timer unit off the clock works ok so im ruling out the battery?

I have checked all connections for security and cleaned pins & reseated molex board connectors etc to check dry joints.

I need a clue as to what to look at next?

Cheers for looking :D
 
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Hi sounds more like an external problem rather than anything wrong with your boiler, try looking at external controls fro heating motorised valve,room thermostat etc.
 
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Its 1 -3 way I think its a drayton lifestyle mid position valve.
How can i check its working?
 
do rads get hot if both HW and CH are selected - if so the programmer is set for 10 progs not 16 - switch or jumper on back of prog needs checking.
 
Hi Mick-if both HW and CH are manually switched on the radiators stay cold
the boiler is lit and the HW is heated but no radiator output.
how can i check the thermostat is sending a signal?
I know its getting a live feed and the contacts move when its adjusted and i can see it working mechanically.
Im tempted to replace the LP241 timer controller (£40)and upgrade the thermostat (about £15) at the same time as its reasonably cheap to get a digital thermo.
I see the valves are about £40 too and it looks a simple swap.
Been trying to avoid the PCB swap but that will be the only thing left I can easily change?
The jumper on the back of the controller is set at Pumped (p).
cheers for the advice so far.
 

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