Ideal Classic RS250 gurgling noises, sludge in tank, pics

[ConfusedinOxfordshire]

As I suspected it is a "aerjec" which is confirmed by the small print on your diagram (made by "Myson" from the mid Eighties). If you compare figure 4, in your diagram, with your existing pipe lay out in the airing cupboard, you will see what I mean about it being installed incorrectly. Obviously for this reason it is not guaranteed that it is doing it`s job correctly and there fore could be the reason for the air in your system. I would therefore advise you to consider re-installing it correctly, unfortunately this will mean quite a bit of pipe work alterations. I would do away with this unit and alter the pipe work to the "H" configuration regarding the feed and vent. The boiler would have automatically bled its self on refill,
There does not seem to be to much of a problem with sludge by looking at the photo of the head tank. The sediment that is there is usually caused by the expansion of water going up to the into the header tank via the cold water feed and then re-entering the system as the water cools. This will cause some of the inhibitor to enter the header tank causing the water to change coluor. There does not seem to be any problem with pumping over.

Sorry spraggo, I forgot to mention I just googled aerjec on the internet and got the diagram from a PDF file.

I have no idea if the one installed in my parents' airing cupboard is a real aerjec or a knock-off. It has no identifying marks or writing on it that I could see (and it's tucked right at the back of the cupboard), but I do agree it's best to remove it.

An RGI who came out to do a quote for fitting a couple of double rads recommended that the air-thingy be removed and the pipework re-done, but never turned up on the agreed date and calls to his answerphone went unreplied. Another RGI was called in to do a quote and the he missed a couple of appointments and was never heard from again.

I guess they had more important jobs to do at the time but it would have been nice to just say they couldn't do the job.

That was why my father and I did the DIY install of the rads and drained/refilled the system.

It's good to hear you don't think the system is pumping over, I guess they just need to keep an eye on it and keep checking for air in the rads? With regards to the sediment in the tank, will it need to be cleaned out again in a few years time and fresh inhibitor added?

Thanks

Paul

 

[spraggo]

I would think that cheapest and easiest solution to curing the air in your system (which does not do it any good for obvious reasons ) is to fit a automatic air vent instead of the R3 (manual air vent) that is situated between the 3 port valve and the flow inlet to the cylinder. This will entail a bit of draining down and there for would suggest that you remove the sludge in the header tank before hand.

 

[ConfusedinOxfordshire]

I would think that cheapest and easiest solution to curing the air in your system (which does not do it any good for obvious reasons ) is to fit a automatic air vent instead of the R3 (manual air vent) that is situated between the 3 port valve and the flow inlet to the cylinder. This will entail a bit of draining down and there for would suggest that you remove the sludge in the header tank before hand.

Thanks once again spraggo

The current vent is a Delcop 854-15, I believe it is fitted to a 15mm tail (is that the correct terminology?).

Here's the best picture I took of it:

Untitled

• ConfusedinOxfordshire
• 2 Dec 2010
• 1

Is it simply a case of de-soldering the vent and soldering a new auto-vent on top of the pipe?

Would this type be suitable?:

Altecnic 15mm robocal auto air vent

• ConfusedinOxfordshire
• 2 Dec 2010
• 1

Altecnic 15mm robocal auto air vent

Do you think the pipe is tall enough or will it need to be replaced with a longer one?

Paul

 

[spraggo]

Yes, that one is OK, you could get a 15mm compression X 1/2 female iron to save you soldering, I don`t see that you would gain a lot by extending the pipe tail but there is nothing stopping you from doing so, using a 15mm comp straight.

 

[shambolic]

Any photos of pump close up to make sure its pumping in the right direction!
A wee handy tip for all you out there is that if Flow and Return reversed (or pump wrong way round) on a classic then the boiler gurgles and you hear a sound like a constant water or air running through heat exchanger.
This is to do with the built in internal baffles with the water passing through these wrong way round!

 

[shambolic]

had a look at pump photo but hard to see, make sure arrow on the side of pump is pointing towards Zone valve (metal box above it)

 

[spraggo]

Another tip is you can tell that the Grunfoss pump is fitted correctly by the position of the electrics cover, which is facing the front, if it was fitted the wrong way round the electrics cover would be at the back.

 

[ConfusedinOxfordshire]

Thanks spraggo

I've spoken to my father and discussed fitting an auto-vent in the airing cupboard.

When partially draining the system to fit the new vent, will the pump itself need to be bled from the big screw in the centre?

 

[spraggo]

No, thats the whole idea of fitting the avv.

 

[spraggo]

No, thats the whole idea of fitting the avv.

 

[spraggo]

No, thats the whole idea of fitting the AAV.

 

[spraggo]

No, thats the whole idea of fitting the AAV.

 

[ConfusedinOxfordshire]

No, thats the whole idea of fitting the avv.

D'oh

I should have thought of that

Will look at doing it when the weather improves a bit